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How to "lock" your Fumoto valve (oil drain plug).

19K views 26 replies 17 participants last post by  Theseus161  
#1 · (Edited)
I was a little uncomfortable with how easily the motor oil could be drained once a Fumoto valve has been installed in place of the factory oil drain plug. It just seemed that the wrong "bump" could result in complete oil loss...an unlikely scenario, but I kept thinking about it.

I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this, but here are some pictures of my solution to the "problem".




Prior to my Subaru, I'd never heard of a Fumoto valve. For those of you who already know how it works, please forgive the basic overview.

Here's what it looks like "closed". Note the position of the silver "tab" above the "F108" imprint.




You can see that the silver tab is now in the "open" or "drain" position.




To "lock" the silver tab in the closed position, I got a variety – pack of Corbin clamps.




The 5/8" (1.58cm) clamp was the perfect size.




Those of you with Iron Man finger strength may be able to squeeze the clamp without tools. I used pliers. When you pinch as shown, the diameter of the little clamp increases enough to slip the clamp over the side of the Fomoto valve.




With the Corbin clamp now powerfully gripping the Fumoto valve (keeping that silver tab from being able to be moved), the likelihood of accidental oil drainage is diminished.




It was a very simple modification that didn't cost much, and only took a couple of minutes to complete.
 
#8 · (Edited)
@Subyroo, thank you for posting an image of Fumoto's black safety clip. I didn't know that was available.

@Even_Stephen, adding a small clip reduces the chance of an accidental discharge of motor oil. You're right though, removing and replacing the factory drain plug isn't generally a difficult task. There would be no way of knowing based on this thread, but I recently installed the skid plates offered by Primitive Racing. Getting a wrench in the small access hole in the skid plate turns the simple job of an oil change into a curse-inducing ordeal. The Fumoto restores the simplicity :)

@wrex002 The space is tight, but with pliers, the clip slides right off.

@FLO-RIDA thank you, happy to contribute.
 
#17 ·
Greetings fellow Forester enthusiasts,

I apologize for the delay, but I have revived my original photos in this thread. I don't know if it will be a permanent fix, but it seems to be working as of this post.

-Sean-
 
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#20 ·
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#22 ·
Just installed my Fumoto yesterday. No no matter how many times I tried starting the threads, it always caught in the same orientation, such that the valve lever ended up on top (not facing down) when fully torqued. It is easy to open by feel, and now I sort of like it up there, out of harms way. I had got the plastic locker, but will probably not use it now. I had used their blue fiber washer, which is thicker than the usual crush washer. I suspect that if I swap it out, the lever would probably face down (if I ever get tired of it facing up).

Out of curiosity, does anyone know why Fumoto uses that washer? Maybe the brass valve can corrode when in contact with the aluminum? Then why not a copper crush washer?
 
#24 ·
Have you considered the crush washer( brand new one of course)?
The fit was too sloppy... too loose. With the copper washer (gasket), I bought one with a smaller inside diameter. I filed it to fit the Fumoto oil drain valve.

On my son's '03 X, we used a second copper washer (gasket) to position the Fumoto oil drain valve for easier access. :wink:

THis poat in my Member Journal shows the copper washer being fitted: Engine oil & filter change + Fumoto washer replacement

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]
 
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#27 ·
I looked at the Fumoto but finally went with the Stahlbus system. I like that the Stahlbus has a lower profile than the Fumoto, if one is concerned about hitting the valve. I don’t see that happening with either valve though.

I leave the undercover on, so there shouldn’t be any problem with any drain valve.
 
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