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Discussion starter · #41 ·
It save me from trying to open the fill PLUG which is above drive shaft, hard to get to area.
I used electric 12V pump instead, which I bought at Amazon for $20. the pump is intended for sucking oil from dipstick hole. the barb connection of the pump is for 10mm ID 3/8 inch ID tube, so I used 3/8 ID, 1/2 inch OD flexible tube from Homedepot / Lowes . 1/2 inch OD tube fit snaggly without leak, into check hole of front differential.

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That is a good technique indeed;)
Not sure I see the need for this or am I following your notes??? If you aren't opening the fill plug, how are you getting fluid back in if all you have open is the drain plug? Getting to the fill and drain plug appeared to be no issue at my service two weeks back.
 
It’s not that much to fill. I use a length of tubing on the bottle or using a small hand pump. And as long as the car is level, you’ll get a good fill.

I use the fill plug hole and watch for overflow from Check. Rear is even easier.
Fill hole, watch for overflow from drain hole.

I change at 45k miles. Short trips.
 
Not sure I see the need for this or am I following your notes??? If you aren't opening the fill plug, how are you getting fluid back in if all you have open is the drain plug? Getting to the fill and drain plug appeared to be no issue at my service two weeks back.
You can use the check hole to fill. It is a beast to loose those plugs even with breaker bar.
 
You can do the service at home with I swore it was like 1.2 qrts up front and .8 quarts in the rear. $8-15 for some 75w-90 gear oil and basic hand tools. I the front had a huge like 28m so that was about $5 but less than an hour to do both. Probably $40 by the time I was done including drive time to the parts store for the large socket and fluid. Its up to you though. the dealer rate is actually affordable in your case. but its like $20 worh of fluid.
I had mine serviced by a local mechanic. purchased my own oil, and he charged $59 per differential to change the fluid. If your $130 price is total for both, I would have the dealer do the service. If $130 is the price for each one, you’re better off having your own local mechanic do the work. Or yourself if you’re up for it! Just don’t accidentally drain the CVT!
$59 for rear diff is really too much if you find out it was two 10mm Hex to loose and 0.8qt. of gear lube with two new washers by hand tools. It took about 5 minutes. The front takes 1.5qt. I doubt that the indie hourly rate is $120/h.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
My dealer wants $130 for the front and rear. My 2017 Impreza is going in on Monday for that and a few other odds and ends.
 
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I get that some folks find it easier to just have the shop do it. No hassles of getting under the car, etc, AND you don't have to dispose of the fluids.

For me, it's 2 hours of drive time to the dealer and back, vs maybe 30 minutes of leisurely taking my time, and a 3 minute drive to Autozone to dispose of the oil, when I have accumulated the 5 gallon per visit limit.

So whatever's more convenient for the situation. At least the maintenance is getting done. The "How" is not as important.
 
My dealer wants $130 for the front and rear. My 2017 Impreza is going in on Monday for that and a few other odds and ends.
I heard the stories from this forum a lot. If I want to be over-charged. I would have bought a BMW or Range Rover. Find a local indie shop you trust.
I get that some folks find it easier to just have the shop do it. No hassles of getting under the car, etc, AND you don't have to dispose of the fluids.

For me, it's 2 hours of drive time to the dealer and back, vs maybe 30 minutes of leisurely taking my time, and a 3 minute drive to Autozone to dispose of the oil, when I have accumulated the 5 gallon per visit limit.

So whatever's more convenient for the situation. At least the maintenance is getting done. The "How" is not as important.
I do rely on my local dealership for OE parts, warranty works and so on. I am not calling it stealership like some other members on the board. However, if You want things done right, you can only rely on yourself. I often have to double check the vehicles after dealership tech worked on them. The most critical thing is they often over-torque everything. if anybody, the dealer tech should know the torque spec of Subies. It appears that they need to do so many oil changes or tire rotations a day, they just air-gun everything to get them out of the shop quickly. change fluids involves letting gravity do its job and measuring the right CVT temp. I just think for a owner with basic tools and can follow directions, I feel the chance is better it is done correctly and consistently by its owner. I am not a dealer basher but hearing the charges for maybe 10 minute worth of work by the dealer, I just got really confused why they cost so much since they are no major difference than other bands of cars?
 
Team, my 60K mile service is coming up on Monday. One dealer recommended doing a diff fluid change and the other stated it was not necessary unless the vehicle has been used to tow. All highway type driving since day 1. Should I get the F&R diff fluid changed or let it go? Dealer wants $139 plus tax. Thank you!
DO the diffs yourself! Easy, maybe an hours worth of time!
 
Yep, I accidentally drained the CVT, not the diff. I had my vehicle towed to a Susie shop that fixed my costly error. Painted the wrong drain plug red and the correct one green for future services!
Hey, I could have made the same mistake if I hadn’t watched MrSubaru and some posts by people like you. Your mistakes and courage to admit it are lessons for me.
 
I plan to use the check hole to fill the front diff, any input? My '20 Sport seems to have the exhaust manifold too close to pop the fill plug, a wheel well trim seems in the way too.
 
Hi everyone, do you fill the diffs until the gear oil comes out of the check ports? I've changed diff fluids on solid axles before and the manual indicated filling up until there was about 1/2" below the check port.
 
@PiggyUT

To fill the front diff with fresh oil, if you purchase your gear oil in "squeeze-able" bags, then you do not even have to use or purchase a gear oil pump.

I just did my 2021 Forester's front diff this wkend, and I was able to screw in a 1/2in outer diameter hose, inner diameter 3/16in to 1/4in, about 4in to 5in long, like it was a big soft rubber bolt, into the bottom overflow/fill port. It stayed in and was snug and didn't leak.

Then I just pressed the nipples of the gear oil bags against and into the bottom of the hose hole, and slowly squeezed the gear oil into the diff. Worked great!
 
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