At 60k I would HIGHLY encourage you too... My 09 foresters rear dif fluid was VERY DARK at 67k.... never towed anything just daily driving.

 

At just 13,000 miles my log shows on 9/9/09:

F & R differential oil change (Redline Synth 75W90 GL-5).

And I do remember how dark the rear diff fluid was, already. But not the front.
Now at 70,000 miles with the synthetic, I am too old and lazy and not concerned enough to change them again. Maybe I will pay the dealer to put their regular 90W in.

 

If you trust the quality of dealership service dept. work, IMO… $139.00 is pretty inexpensive insurance in the grand scheme of vehicle life. If done correctly, new lubricants rarely have a downside…

If you decide to not do it, and subsequently experience differential issues/failure, how would you feel about it?

It wouldn’t really bother some folks, just a “luck of the draw“ as they might say… other folks it would simply cook.

That’s my $0.02…

 

You can do the service at home with I swore it was like 1.2 qrts up front and .8 quarts in the rear. $8-15 for some 75w-90 gear oil and basic hand tools. I the front had a huge like 28m so that was about $5 but less than an hour to do both. Probably $40 by the time I was done including drive time to the parts store for the large socket and fluid. Its up to you though. the dealer rate is actually affordable in your case. but its like $20 worh of fluid.

 

I had mine serviced by a local mechanic. purchased my own oil, and he charged $59 per differential to change the fluid. If your $130 price is total for both, I would have the dealer do the service. If $130 is the price for each one, you’re better off having your own local mechanic do the work. Or yourself if you’re up for it! Just don’t accidentally drain the CVT!

$59 for rear diff is really too much if you find out it was two 10mm Hex to loose and 0.8qt. of gear lube with two new washers by hand tools. It took about 5 minutes. The front takes 1.5qt. I doubt that the indie hourly rate is $120/h.

 

I had mine serviced by a local mechanic. purchased my own oil, and he charged $59 per differential to change the fluid. If your $130 price is total for both, I would have the dealer do the service. If $130 is the price for each one, you’re better off having your own local mechanic do the work. Or yourself if you’re up for it! Just don’t accidentally drain the CVT!

 

Thanks Everyone! Yes, the price is $139 for both axles. I will have it done at the dealership...thanks again!

 

Excellent point made above… if you’re not absolutely sure what/how to do it yourself, get someone who does know how…

 

Do it yourself! Easy peasy!

 

I'm sure that it is. However, my time is worth more than working on my car and I just don't have the time.

 

Do it.

 

60K is scheduled for next Monday! Going to add the diff fluid replacement. Thanks!

 

In the time it takes to go to the dealership and back, you can do both f/r diffs. It’s fairly simple. You just need the tools.
18” long extension or longer
T70 torx bit socket
Ratchets maybe a breaker bar
10mm hex bit socket
Diff oil 75w90
Bottle pump

You can buy a lot of this on EBay, Amazon or Home Depot.
If you’re up to it.

 

I had mine done twice by the 60k mark.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

If you have the time, tools and equipment…the knowledge and desire… and physical ability, I agree.

Not everyone has all of those. It doesn’t make someone bad or lazy if they have a shop do the work.

Its something that we should all keep in mind.

 

I’m not trying to make a case against changing any lubricant, but people need to have a clear understanding that no one can judge the quality of a lubricant by color alone. Color MAY be an indicator, but by itself, it’s a poor one at best.

For any doubters, take a look at diesel engine oil 100 miles after a oil/filter change. You’ll see what I mean.

However, I’m a big advocate of preventive maintenance… if in doubt, and the change is affordable and inexpensive… change it.

 

Color is a good indicator of condition but not the only one... Comparing diesel oil that turns black from soot is not the same comparison of gear oil in a sealed differential... that's an Apples to rocks comparison at the very best. Diesels produce soot WAY more than gas vehicles hence why esp in pre 2008 diesels the next day your honey engine oil color is black as tar its from carbon build up Diesels historically have MUCH higher compression than gas engines by nature of how they work. No spark so the air/fuel mixture is COMPRESSED to be used not sparked. When a honey color gear oil gets black its from heat and pressure... Same thing with most ATFs they are red and when you see its completely void of red or much darker its a good sign the fluid is old or worn. You cannot compare the two for anything really.

Again no one said color is the only way... Color, smell, feel, texture, and of course laboratory sampling are needed. PS the dipstick oil looks black on diesels but 99% of the time when I change them on my diesel, tractors, or big rigs the oil still has a close to honey color. The carbon likes to sit near the surface.

 

I agree. Color is not a good indicator. Time. Oil breaks down and suspends tiny metal shavings. I want that out by 30k miles or 2 years at most.

 

60,000 miles in only one year has to include a very high percentage of driving time without much acceleration, deceleration, cornering, or temperature cycles. I would think this particular car, for a Forester at 60,000 miles, is the one LEAST likely to need attention to the differentials.

 

The Forester was purchased in September 2018 so it is almost 3 years old. My daughter does a lot of driving between FL and VA which is why her mileage is relatively high for a 2019 model year. It has been nearly 100% highway driving. However, since it's getting its 60K service done, which includes the spark plugs and brake fluid flush, I might as well just let them do everything anyway since I don't have full access to this vehicle as she lives on her own.

 

“Again no one said color is the only way...”

That’s correct, but even this short thread has multiple posts that imply the only sense of the lubricant condition was color..

And, color is probably the most-used reason for folks justifying changing lubricants. Car repair/service shops have always used color alone as primary justification for suggesting fluid changes.

The vast majority of vehicle owners simply don’t know much about lubricants, and more than a few get suckered in by shops simply looking to make a buck. And, that was my point… don’t make decisions based on color alone.

As I posted earlier, I’m big on preventive maintenance. When in doubt, change the fluid.

 

Curious...how much diff fluid is required to replace both the front and rear? Are you all using full synthetic or regular Subaru 75W90?

 

I got confused, are we not talking about the 2021 model your profile lists? Surely you didn't buy that one in 2018??

 

Read post 23

 

Great price. I was going to do mine this summer, but am busy with tiling a basement room by room. Called Grayson Subaru and they was 220.mm Looks like I will be doing it myself. Plus they said they would only change the fluid, not the gaskets. Seemed odd.

 

I used very similar Technic youtube ( Samb wague )

used , which is filling fluid from check drain plug location, I used those 12V electrical pump , intended to suck engine oil from dip stick hole, those pump sell for around US $20 , and it has 3/8 ID 10mm ID barb. I did not want to put the car on flat, so I measure exact amount of oil drained 1.15 Qts , then put back 1.15 qts.

 

I used very similar Technic youtube ( Samb wague )

That is a good technique indeed

 

I did mine myself at about 34k, this was after the stealership quoted a price over $700 for the 30k service. This would include oil/filter change, Cabin Air Cleaner, Cabin Air Filter, Brake Fluid, F/R diff change and maybe a tire rotate/balance. Only elected to have them do the brake fluid.
For the F/R Diffs, both use 75w-90 (I use Severe Gear, definitely not the cheapest)
Front: Uses a T70 for the drain (torque to 70 N M or 51 ft lbs) and 8mm Hex for the Fill and Check Plugs. (torque to 50 N M or 37 ft lbs). Uses 1.4 qts
Rear: Uses 10 mm hex, torque to 50 N M or 37 ft lbs. Uses 0.8 qts
Washers: Front Drain: 803926090, the other 4 are the same: 803918060. These may actually be reusable but I bought and used new ones.
As always with differentials, make sure you can loosen/open the fill plug before draining.
I accessed the front fill plug by removing the front passenger wheel, leveled the car with the jack, and used a long extension. This method isn't totally necessary as the fill plug is accessible from under the vehicle, just use a short extension.

 

You should read your owners manual's maintenance section. You will be wasting your money.

 

Where does the owners manual say not to replace the diff fluids?

 

I think on the owner’s manual says inspect. Isn’t that same as going to strip club? Look don’t touch? Sorry for the bad joke.

 

You better read how Subaru defines "I".
Hint: It's in the Warranty & Maintenance booklet, not the owners manual.

 

@ securityguy
I like our Subarus very much other than the cvt slow acceleration which I finally got used to and accepted it. Most of cars we owned, the 3yr hit before we get to 30k. So, I now take it to a mechanic to check our cars and service based on the interval. I respect your post and agree that fluid should be checked regularly and replaced if dirty or bad. My mechanic open the rear diff filler plug and stick take a sample fluid to see the color and how lubricant the fluid is and shows me if I was there. Our old Subarus has dipstick for front diff and I can easily check myself.
My issue is with Subaru service dept not doing their job and ripping unknowing customers off.

 

It save me from trying to open the fill PLUG which is above drive shaft, hard to get to area.
I used electric 12V pump instead, which I bought at Amazon for $20. the pump is intended for sucking oil from dipstick hole. the barb connection of the pump is for 10mm ID 3/8 inch ID tube, so I used 3/8 ID, 1/2 inch OD flexible tube from Homedepot / Lowes . 1/2 inch OD tube fit snaggly without leak, into check hole of front differential.

That is a good technique indeed

 

Not sure I see the need for this or am I following your notes??? If you aren't opening the fill plug, how are you getting fluid back in if all you have open is the drain plug? Getting to the fill and drain plug appeared to be no issue at my service two weeks back.

 

It’s not that much to fill. I use a length of tubing on the bottle or using a small hand pump. And as long as the car is level, you’ll get a good fill.

I use the fill plug hole and watch for overflow from Check. Rear is even easier.
Fill hole, watch for overflow from drain hole.

I change at 45k miles. Short trips.