I could tell you how to do it for the SG (2003+) models, but I don't have good diagrams for the SFs. My (educated?) guess, assuming that the models are reasonably similar in this regard, is that if you can find a relay that controls power to the windows when the key is on, you could remove it and insert a short jumper wire into the two terminals that form the leg of its T-shaped footprint in this connector.

On the SG Foresters it would be 17 and 18 on this diagram.

 

I could tell you how to do it for the SG (2003+) models, but I don't have good diagrams for the SFs. My (educated?) guess, assuming that the models are reasonably similar in this regard, is that if you can find a relay that controls power to the windows when the key is on, you could remove it and insert a short jumper wire into the two terminals that form the leg of its T-shaped footprint in this connector.

On the SG Foresters it would be 17 and 18 on this diagram.

Sounds like a good way to do it. Anyone have the Relay Block Diagram for the 2000 or tell me which relay is the one for the windows?

 

At one time, I thought the windows should work this way. The MOD should be easy enough, but the motors would run kinda slow when the battery isn't being charged (engine off). The windows take a lot of power to operate & could run down the battery pretty fast. Perhaps that's the reason the factory opted not to allow them to work with the engine off...

Bobby...

 

The conversion is not so difficult but, bearing in mind Bobbys advice above, turn the ignition on and lower and raise the windows. Then start the engine and repeat the process. On mine at least, there is a marked difference between the two actions and the windscreen wipers behave in a similar way. The battery is around 3 months old. If you feel confident that there is little or no difference between the two cycles on your car, go ahead.

 

AFAIK there is no relay block in the SF (the relays are discretely connected).

Below is info for LDH MY01 SF, not sure if this would be exaclty the same for MY00. The power window circuit breaker connector B41 and power window relay connector B42 locations are shown, as well as the wiring for the drivers door.

Hope this helps

Cheers

John

 

^^^ Connector is certainly different from that on the SGs, but it's the same concept. Ignition controls a relay that makes power available to the window circuitry. Find that relay, bypass its two contacts, and you're there.

 

One potential glitch: on newer Foresters (I'm not sure what model years, but for sure 2006), supplying constant power to the power window circuit also means supplying constant power to the light sources within the power window switches - I don't know if they're LEDs or incandescent, but either way they would represent a constant power draw that might result in a dead battery over time.

 

That's what I am thinking, process mod with caution.

 

^^^ Good point. The LED does show up within the switch on the SG diagram but not on Skippy124's for his SF. Then again, his Forester was made for a different national market, and there could be minor differences here and there.

It's time to pull out my Standard Disclaimer!

Standard disclaimer: There could be differences among models, model years, transmission or engine types, national markets, or even within a model year. Remember, this is an international forum. Exterior lights and any device that employs the radio spectrum may be subject to differences due to national or even local regulations. Subaru's official wiring diagrams have occasionally been found to be incorrect. Test everything before proceeding. Follow these instructions at your own risk. May contain peanuts. YMMV!

Standard request: Let us know how it works out, so that the next person who searches for solutions to a similar problem might find the answer here without having to ask and start yet another thread. The job's not done till the paperwork is in!

​

 

Wise move would be to stick an ammeter into the relay socket before installing the jumper. See how much is actually flowing.

Personally, I could live without those lights. I always find the switches by feel.

 

The window switches have lights? Mine must be burnt out.

I wish the entire switch bank on the driver's door were illuminated. Annoying to turn on dome light to see what i'm doing.

 

I did this on MY02, using the already posted pix in post 5, the relay is the middle relay in a stack of 3 right below and to the left of the foglight/cruise switches.

The window relay had a BLUE socket ( # 42 in the picture ) you want the Green/Orange wire from socket pin 1 and CUT IT.

Then splice the relay side of the cut wire to the wire on the relay RIGHT BELOW ( Heated Seats Relay Socket #104 ). Splice the wire to the same position #1 of the Seat heater relay. Since that page is not shown, I can't tell you what the wire color is.

Now when you just turn the key to ACC, the windows will work . They have the seat heaters work in ACC, but not the windows from the factory.

 

Here is the wiring for the seat heater relay (again for MY01)

Like the idea of using the Acc power for the power window relay!! I am intending to do this on my '08.

Cheers

John

 

If the 08 fuse/relay box is like MY04, the same applies, but here the relays are part of the fusbox assy and you have to get to the rear to do the same.
the seat heater relay is top most, and the window relay is the 5th one down, or 2nd from the bottom where the add'l fuses are.

 

Ive got service manuals for 03 through to 07 , and I think the 08 is pretty close if not the same as the 07 so I should be able to track it down!! And thanks for the pointers, much apopreciated :rock:

 

i think it's also kind of a security flaw...

if windows always work, someone could pry the window open enough such that you can push the window switch...

On Honda's power works for about 5min after the ign is off, then it's cutoff...

 

i think it's also kind of a security flaw...

if windows always work, someone could pry the window open enough such that you can push the window switch...

Wouldn't it be easier for them just to push the unlock switch?

Quoted from a post of mine from a couple of years ago:

My best lockout experience happened last year. It was a hot summer day, so I had fortunately left the windows open a crack. I was parked at a store that sold barbeque equipment. For about $2 I bought a long barbeque fork with a leather thong loop at the end of the handle. A better break-in tool could not be made! It was so skinny that it slid through the opening without a problem. The thong kept it from falling in while I manipulated it with two fingers. It was easily long enough to hit the electric unlock button.​

 

not too mention if a kid is playing in your car and winds the window up and gets head caught...

not that you would leave a kid in the car if you are smart enough... but you know how kids can be.. okaying outside get into the car to play brmmm brmmm

 

Hi, New to this Forum and impressed with the knowledge available and everyone's inputs. Was checking through the enormous "Pet peeves" and saw the one about having to re-insert the key and turn the ignition to "On" because you realised too late that you did not shut the windows. Annoying!
I have a 1990 Mercedes 300TE also and one thing that impressed me was that the window motors were wired to the door open circuit. All you had to do was open (any) door and hit the window switch. Brilliant! No risk of leaving the circuit active as it shuts off again when the door shuts.
Anyone with ideas how to wire it up?
2002 2L Turbo. Import from Japan

 

turbo timer for power

my service manager, nice guy, added a turbo timer to the circuit and now i have power for about 2 minutes after ignition off as long as i dont open a door. works fine.

 

Windows operate with dome light.

I designed a circuit to also operate the master window relay whenever the dome light is on. It also powers the footwell LEDs. There is no battery drain when off. You need to have (or know someone who has) some basic electronic knowledge to build it.
The window motors obviously work slower with the ignition off. Best to only operate one at a time for lower voltage operation. I sure like the convenience since I was used to manual windows.

 

Not a bad design for4me.

I have been wanting to do this mod since I got my Forester. But I plan on wiring my circuit so the windows remain powered after the car is off, and then cut power a few minutes after the doors are opened.

 

Dome light operation

ZapWizard, your idea for a timer is interesting, but there are two possible problems: 1. I like to be able to unlock the car, open the door and immediately open the windows on a hot day without sitting on a hot seat or turning the ignition on. 2: If you leave a dog in the car, there is a small, but not impossible chance it could accidently open the window during the time-out period. Remember, the driver's door has the One-Touch-Down feature. If you still go with another circuit, don't forget to isolate the power window relay with two diodes to eliminate feedback.

In my 2011, the dome light comes on when the ignition is turned off. If you do not open the doors, it will go off in 30 seconds. If you open the doors, the dome light will stay on for 30 MINUTES max, if you don't close the doors. If you close the doors, the dome will stay on for 30 seconds. My circuit keeps the power window master relay energised anytime the dome is on (and of course when the ignition is on).

This circuit could be used on any (ground-switched) dome light circuit, whether it is the old style or the new theater-dimming style. Of course older cars may have different wiring colors than 2009-2013 models.

Note: My window relay has a large green/black wire on the contact going to the power windows. Don't get this one mixed up with the two small green/black wires for the relay coil. (poor design, using the same wire color)

I did encounter a condition where I was sitting in the car for a few minutes with the ignition off, and the dome light had timed out and I wanted to operate the power windows, which then were no longer activated. This minor inconvenience was fixed by adding a convenient dash switch to remotely operate the dome light, rather than awkwardly twisting around to flick the overhead dome switch.