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1998 Forester Automatic

I follow all the proper procedures, but when I clean the dipstick, replace it, and pull it out again, there is fluid running up the sides of the dipstick (not completely covering the flat parts), rendering the reading pretty confusing. Am I doing something wrong?
 
@RamJacCorp I believe you are referring to the fact that pulling the dipstick then transfers some ATF to the insides of the dipstick tube and that ATF then gets on the dipstick when you reinsert it. If so, I generally look for where there is a “line” in the middle of the dipstick of “dryness”. In other words there should be a solid amount of ATF until the fluid level ends, and then some comes on the sides above that from the dipstick tube.
 
Yup - try to get it dry, dip it relatively quickly, and look for the lowest dry spot instead of the highest wet spot if needed
P.S. This is why most automatics no longer have dipsticks 🙃
 
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@RamJacCorp Questions for you:
1. Driven at least 5 miles to get fluid up to temperature?
2. Engine running when checking fluid?
3. Shifted and stayed in each shifter position for a few seconds?
4. What color is the fluid?
Maybe post a picture?
1. Yep
2. Yep
3. Yep
4. Clearish pink

I should have shot a photo and shared. Will do, when I check it again.
 
@RamJacCorp I believe you are referring to the fact that pulling the dipstick then transfers some ATF to the insides of the dipstick tube and that ATF then gets on the dipstick when you reinsert it. If so, I generally look for where there is a “line” in the middle of the dipstick of “dryness”. In other words there should be a solid amount of ATF until the fluid level ends, and then some comes on the sides above that from the dipstick tube.
Exactly. It just seems tough to see the line of demarcation.
 
Yup - try to get it dry, dip it relatively quickly, and look for the lowest dry spot instead of the highest wet spot if needed
P.S. This is why most automatics no longer have dipsticks 🙃
Yeah, that seems to be the best we can do. I wonder if that's really the reason they did away with the dipstick. I'm thinking they want you to bring it in for service. $$$$
 
@RamJacCorp My guess they got rid of the dipstick is to reduce costs and no one in the general public even checks engine oil level let alone the transmission fluid level. And with the new transmission technology where fluid is filled and checked from the bottom at a certain temperature..it does away with the transmission dipstick.
 
@RamJacCorp My guess they got rid of the dipstick is to reduce costs and ….
Well, a transmission doesn’t burn oil like an engine, so unless it’s leaking, the level is ok.

So between people not checking it with the engine running, checking it cold, and not getting a good reading,
People were creating more problems for themselves and for warranty costs.

A precise level also helps with spin losses and aeration.
 
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@2004XT_Auto

No need to make this any more complicated than necessary.

Static height, cold, on level ground, is 3" of fluid on the dipstick for 4EAT.

You can check it any way you want, and compare the readings, and if you do it correctly, you will end up with 3" static height, cold.

I have a 3" paint mark on top of the fuse box, for easy comparison.

The 4EAT is the most robust component in your drivetrain.

Just drain out 5 quarts every 30,000 miles and refill with IDEMITSU ATF TYPE HP. Then drain another 5 quarts 5,000 miles after that, and refill with IDEMITSU ATF TYPE HP.

So it comes out to 5 quarts at 30,000, another 5 quarts at 35,000, then 5 quarts at 60,000, another 5 quarts at 65,000, and you can do that forever.

I downshift into 3rd and 2nd almost every time I slow down, because I'm too lazy to change out brake pads.

End of story,
Image
 
I'm such a dipstick! I hope one day I don't struggle so badly with this but it really is maddening for me, draining fluid, adding fluid and never feeling like I got it right. You would think at this point I'd have a better skillset with this, but I'm not there yet.

Recently changed the oil and did a drain/refill on the transmission. Oil is fine, level looks good but the tranny I can never get right, thats why I always put the drain/refills off.

My issue is it looks low on one side of the dipstick, its looks really high on the back of it. I have already removed 3/4 of quart to get to this point. See pics. and yes, I am checking the tranny warm, engine running on a flat surface.

A YT video I found suggested wiping the dipstick on a piece of paper to tell exactly where it is. Well even so with that trick it still seems the front of the dipstick is reading low and the back is reading high.

So before I add or remove any more fluid please bless me with your insights! Thank you!!!

Front

Back
 
@donkpow your question got my gears spinning!

If my math is right I’d say 4.5 quarts. I added roughly a quart from an existing jug of ATF to a fresh 1 gallon jug of ATF. So 1 gallon + 1 quart = 5 quarts. There is roughly 0.5 quart left in the jug. There for what I put in is 4.5 quartsbtw this is going of eyeball estimates off the level window side of the jug.

What I removed in my troubleshooting the dipstick was .75 quarts. So that would mean 3.75 has remains.

When I did the drain I did remove what felt like a full gallon based off where the level was when I put it in an old ATF jug, maybe even a tad more if I recall.

For all I know my levels were high before this cause I’ve always had a hard time with this part.

Any idea why the front of the dipstick seems low but the back of the dipstick seems high?

is it possible I’m supposed to be looking only at the front. Part of me feels like it’s low, but the oil sits so high on the back of the dipstick it trips me up and I cant determine an accurate reading.
 
Any idea why the front of the dipstick seems low but the back of the dipstick seems high?
I don't know, I don't have that problem. I always use the holes. I don't even know if I have looked at the back of the dipstick. I have polished my dipsticks with fine emery or crocus cloth.
 
@donkpow what does polishing with emery paper do? I also seen a guy cut notches in his dipstick with a Dremel and suggest scraping it in the pavement to edge it up. I guess that can possibly grab a better reading? Idunno…

I read through the first page of this thread and something that caught my eye was letting it idle for a few minutes after removing the dipstick to allow any fluid to fall back down the tube.

I have not been doing this. So I’m going to give this a try and see if that removes the high reading I’m getting on the back of the dipstick.
My gut is telling me the fluid is low and I need to go off the front with the holes. I’m gonna trouble shoot this some more today.
 
I polish the dipstick to remove the brown patina from the surface. When the dipstick is closer to white metal, it is easier to see the red fluid level.
 
@donkpow Good stuff! I put some 400 grit sand paper to it and it seems to be reading a little better. Perhaps I should go deeper on it to get it more white. it's atleast got vertical scratches on it that seem to be picking up the oil better.

I added another 1/4 quart after doing so cause it seemed below the L mark when checking hot on what I presume to be level surface. Now when I take the reading its above F and going even passed the twist on the dipstick.

The difference though is that it appears to be shifting much better, it was having difficult before, just taking a long time it felt. I assume better overfilled the under filled.

Next gas station I'm at I'll check it on their level surface. If it is still looking over filled, I will removed just 1/8 quart to gauge. I will get this right!

Thank you!
 
at first glance, do y’all think this is low? Is the reading potentially where you see the the oil pooled up. I see fluid up the dipstick but very thin amount.
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Image
 
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