I like to check the fluid with the vehicle warmed up, in park and the e-brake on.

 

Thanks, I am guessing that I should be able to get a reasonably close reading with it cold.

 

You might check your owner's manual for the correct way to check this. Normally, auto trannys are checked hot or warm, engine running at idle, in Park with e-brake on. If the engine is not running, the fluid drains out of the torque converter and the readings are meaningless.

From Manchester Subaru, Manchester New Hampshire:

Automatic Transmission Fluid

When: Monthly. (Automatic transmission equipped models only.) Drive several miles to raise the temperature of your car's transmission fluid up to normal operating temperatures (140 to 176 degrees is normal). Park on a level surface and set the parking brake. Shift the selector level in each position. Then shift it in the "P" position, and run the engine at idling speed. Pull out the dipstick and check the fluid level on the gauge. If it is below the lower level on the "HOT" side, add the recommended automatic transmission fluid up to the upper level.

Important: If you don't have time to warm up the automatic transmission, check to see that the fluid level is between the lower level and the upper level on the "COLD" side. If it is below that range, add fluid up to the upper level. Be careful not to overfill.​

 

Coming back to share some experiences. I believe that accuracy may be the best when checking the fluid stone cold. I checked the dipstick with the words hot/cold facing the radiator.

I began to fill it in 1/2 quart increments. I lost my patience and added a quart. It went up to the low mark for HOT.

Thinking that I might be ok, I took it for a drive and was surprised that the level was even higher after checking it HOT. On my other non Subaru vehicle the level dropped as the transmission got hotter.

I also noticed that the owners manual says let idle a minute or 2. If I didn't do that, the level would only show on one side of the dipstick or be splattery everywhere.

Even after following these instructions, I find it concerning that the fluid never makes it into the level holes and floats around them.

With everything stone cold, I found the best technique was to add fluid slowly and then wait 30 minutes for the fluid to level on the dipstick. I am using D6 which is a bit thinner and is sure to come off of the dipstick when cold for easier to reading.

 

The vehicle must running when you check it.
Accuracy is best when vehicle is HOT

 

Well I can tell you that both sides of the dipstick don't read the same. That is not accurate. Also, the fluid does not go into the holes like normal vehicles.

The majority of the truth with respect to the level was identified when cold.

With the letters on the dipstick facing the radiator, the line on the dipstick only covered about 1/4 of the dipstick vertically. Only the end of that 1/4 line met up with the pretty consistently solid rear of the dipstick.

I am going to rely on the rear of the dipstick when the letters are facing the radiator when checking hot based on that.

 

The majority of the truth with respect to the level was identified when cold.

With the letters on the dipstick facing the radiator, the line on the dipstick only covered about 1/4 of the dipstick vertically. Only the end of that 1/4 line met up with the pretty consistently solid rear of the dipstick.

I am going to rely on the rear of the dipstick when the letters are facing the radiator when checking hot based on that.

The safe play is to use the lowest indicated reading. Also, although it is more difficult to see the fluid level when the engine is hot. The hot reading is the one that is more meaningful bc it is where the level is speced out to be when the fluid is hot. One thing that helps is to leave the dipstick out of the engine for several minutes before the reading is taken. THOROUGHLY wipe of the dipstick. The time allows the liquid on the inside of the dipstick tube to run off.

And only take one reading. If unsure..keep the dipstick out a few minutes before taking another reading/

 

Great post. I went outside today and did my cold check as indicated. As mentioned above, it was WAY overfilled when hot.

I drained the fluid from the plug several times. I was kind of upset at how many times I had to drain it and then get a reading. Seems the dipstick is kind of non-linear.

I got it so that it just one lick above the FULL COLD. Going any lower was just not worth it and with the possible non-linearity of the dipstick I could easily go over when draining or be there all day.

NEW OBSERVATION: The front of the dipstick is DEAD accurate when stone cold. When I say dead accurate for cold I mean just for checking it cold.

As you mentioned the dipstick needs to be super clean. This means the side of the dipstick. I usually make about 3 passes when cleaning it with a new paper towel in 3 different spots.

I mostly posted here to give feedback as to methodology to assist others and remind myself when my notes are lost. This is on the 4EAT for my year that uses Dex3. Not sure if other years are the same.

I'll try your trick out and report back after getting it hot.

 

I am going to rescind upon my stone cold measurement accuracy.

The vehicle has been sitting in the same spot after sitting. The dipstick is suddenly reading WAY overfilled when cold.

However I am encountering trans difficulties that seem commensurate with low fluid like slipping and hard shifting.

I am lost!

 

All,

I am scared to move the vehicle at this point because the trans was acting funny when I drove it.

Could someone please detail the correct procedure as to how to check the fluid cold? I have been searching all over the "Subaru 4EAT internet" and it actually seems that I am supposed to check the fluid cold but idling and following the hot procedure e.g. E-brake on and running it through the gears.

Neither the owner's manual or the FSM mention that you have to idle the vehicle and follow a procedure with it cold. It just says to check it cold.

The dipstick is nearly dry when idling but hits the Cold Full mark when stone cold the way I have it sitting.

I am not opposed to checking the fluid HOT but there is no way that I am going to move the vehicle until I understand the cold check procedure with certainty.

I'd really like to be able to use my vehicle sooner or later and help would be appreciated!

 

The ATF level checking instructions below is from the '03-'04 Subaru technical service manual.

Bobby...

['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]

 

Yep Bobby, I have been looking at the same page in the FSM 4AT-29 for 2 days now after leveling the vehicle with a laser.

"NOTE" for STEP 4 gives instructions on checking it COLD, but it doesn't specifically say that you have to idle the engine...and if you did you'd need to WARM it up as per STEP 1....kind of a catch 22 IMO. :grin2:

...unless I am missing something it leaves you to guess whether or not the vehicle needs to be running.

In either event, the verbiage ".....when it is cold, the level should be found below the center of these two marks" is also confusing me. Does that mean that when it is cold it should be below the center of "B" cold? Confused as to why "B" upper Level wouldn't be ok.

I guess the most important thing for starters would be whether or not the same HOT procedure needs to be followed during a COLD check or if you just walk out there in the morning without it running check the dipstick and shrug your shoulders then hope for the best?

 

I haven't really messed with the advanced google search on here but it is great. Every post here says to do it running if you are going to check it cold.

Someone had a pretty similar question/argument it seems:

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/atf-dipstick-120149/

 

Every post here says to do it running if you are going to check it cold.

Dang @2004XT_Auto, that was a painful read back from your 2017 posts... did you ever start reading the dipstick with the engine running and shifting through the gear first?

If you don't run the engine, you risk having the torque converter and other passages in the valve body being empty and draining back into the pan resulting in a high reading on the dipstick.

 

Hi Team,

I did a full ATF change the other day on my 2004 subi forrester XT, I was silly and failed to note how much I removed. After a couple of flushes the car struggled to go into gear. I believe I realized it wasn't full enough so i have topped out the fluid. I am really struggling to get a clear reading on the dipstick - it either has a full bead below the cold line when the engine is running or it has what looks like smudged lines up way above the hot sign. No matter how much I add these 2 things don't seem to be changing much. there is no fluid leaking from the car.

Any ideas?

 

@alexCakers Welcome to the forum from DFW, TX. Please update your forum profile: Your forum "Public Profile" - how to fill this...

Thank you.

 

Proper Fluid level check for the 4EAT transmission, best done after you have driven for 3-5 miles to get the transmission good and warm.

1. Leave Engine Running
2. Move the shift lever through each position stopping for 2-3 secs.
3. Leave the Engine Running
4. Pull out dipstick.
5. Wipe it off
6. Put dipstick back in.
7. Pull it out and note the level.

 

@bman400 Thanks for the response, thats how I have been checking the fluid sadly. it still kind of comes out not solid. Below are a couple of examples from the same "pull one" 1 side is different to the other

 

That is super low and probably not even touching the stick yet. add 1 quart and see what the reading is. its not rocket surgery. once you get it close you will see the fluid level quite easily.

 

G'day & Welcome @alexCakers

Common threads merged

Perhaps also review the results of this search:Search results for query: dipstick

 

Hey guys;
2004 Forester XT.
I have no issues with the vehicle at 63K miles, but today, after driving about 150 miles, I thought I should check the transmission fluid while the car is warm.
I recall that the engine must be hot and running in neutral or park.
The vehicle had been driven for about 5 hours and then turned off for about an hour before I restarted it and checked the fluid. The fluid level appears to be low - the fluid appears to be at or below the low line on the dipstick, but I'm not sure if the engine is hot enough. I'll check it again tomorrow after driving for about 1/2 hour.-
I don't recall whether I ever had the fluid changed, and since I haven't been driving much, I don't check it regularly.
If it's low, what symptoms can I expect? I didn't notice anything odd while driving today.

I'm away from home now, but I'm sure I can find an auto parts store if I need to buy fluid and add it myself—except that I don't know where to add it. Do I use a special funnel to add fluid to the dipstick tube, or is there a filler like the oil cap?

Thanks for your help
FW2016

 

@fw2016
You are okay if the fluid level is between the low and full marks, so being on the low side of the dipstick won't hurt anything, and you won't have symptoms.

Maybe more importantly, what does the fluid on the dipstick look like?
It should be a translucent pink color.
If it's dark you should drain and change the fluid rather than adding new fluid to the old murky stuff.

It's an easy DIY to do a drain and fill and it's a low risk procedure, as opposed to a flush, which is a one and done at a shop, but more than a few people have reported transmission problems after doing a flush.
Innocuous particles that will drain out can be forced into places that cause problems with a flush.

A full transmission when drained will give you just short of a gallon of transmission fluid, and a refill will use just short of a gallon to refill it.

Use Subaru HP ATF or Idemitsu ATF who makes the ATF for Subaru .

You'll need a socket or wrench to remove the drain bolt, a pan to catch the old fluid and a funnel/hose to refill the transmission through the dipstick hole.

After filling, let the car warm up and check the fluid level while the engine is running.

The drain and fill won't drain the fluid in the torque converter, so after putting some mileage on the transmission, repeat the drain and fill after some mileage. I do my drain and fills with oil changes as I'm already under there.

After the third drain and fill you'll have pristine fluid and your transmission will appreciate the TLC with longevity.

 

@DragonSubie7,
Thanks;
How hot should the engine be when checking the dipstick, and how much fluid do I need to add if it's below the low line?
When I checked this afternoon, I wasn't even sure there was any fluid on the dipstick at all; If there was, it was more clear than translucent. If the fluid is below the low line, and not even showing on the dipstick, how much fluid do I need?
I would have expected the transmission to slip of be sluggish when shifting if the fluid was dangerously low. Isn't there also an 'idiot light' that comes on if there is a problem with the transmission?

I am a bit worried, but not too much, since the car was driving well today.
Thanks again for your advice.

 

I'm in luck. There is a hardware store a block away from where I am staying in Ludlow VT. They have the Coastal "Dex Merc" fluid in stock and are open on Sunday. I will warm up the car, drive a bit, and come back to check the fluid.
Interesting thought: I don't recall ever needing to add transmission fluid to any of the vehicles I have owned. I guess the only way the fluid can get low is if there is a leak, or if the transmission is overheating and burning the oil. I don't suspect either on my vehicle.

 

When properly filled you typically don't need to add fluid, but if you look at the owners manual, you do need to change it.
It's also a good idea to check it, as with other fluids in the car, so that you can catch a problem before it becomes a failure.
As far as "how hot" - As posted above in this thread from the manual, there is a complete description of what you need to do to check it. Drive the car 3 to 5 miles and it will be warmed up properly to check it while it is running.

For the 2004 XT, Subaru recommends ATF HP, but Dexron 3 might have been was the previously recommended fluid for your Subaru, and that's could be what is in it, or not.

You didn't mention what the fluid looks like - Is it translucent and red/pink?
If not, you will be adding new fluid to the old stuff that may need to be drained and refilled....

 

I didn't see any fluid on the stick. If there was any, it was clear, or maybe the lighting was poor. I will re-check this morning after driving a short distance to warm up the engine.
As far as what the proper fluid is, I would think that if the fluid is low, adding any high quality fluid would be better than none at all.
I'll check the manual first though.
It's Sunday in Ludlow VT, so I don't have much of a choice as to where I can buy fluid. If I drive to Rutland, I'm sure I'll find more choices. There may be an AutoZone there.
I don't know about having the fluid changed, but maybe one day this week when the weather gets too hot for hiking, I'll take the vehicle in for service. I would think that any shop could change transmission fluid. It's not really something I want to do myself. I have trouble getting under the car, and it's a messy job. that said, I did change my own oil before I left.

 

I would choose your shop wisely. I did what you did and took it to a Jiffy Lube to drain and refill the ATF. They drained my front differential, I could smell it. They refilled the diff and sent me on my way and apologized for their mistake.

 

Thanks for the advice.
I once took a vehicle to a Jiffy Lube and after they changed the oil, i heard a rattling in the engine. I don't recall what I did to remedy the problem, but I never went to another quick-change place.

As for my ATF; I re-checked this morning while the vehicle was cold. I can see the fluid level is at the 'low' line. It appears to be clear in color.
According to the manual, there are supposed to be two sets of marks on the ATF dipstick; one set for cold, another set for hot.
I only saw one set of marks.
I also checked my power steering fluid. It is at the cold min line, so I would like to add to bring it about halfway between cold min and cold max.
The manual says to use Dextron III for both the transmission and power steering, and never mix brands. I will check the local hardware store, but if they don't stock Dextron III, I will look for an AutoZone, or find a Subaru dealer.

 

Picked up a 2011 Forester for kid to drive. Starting to replace trans fluids, and first drain and fill only used 3 quarts until the dipstick reads full on the Hot ( higher side).

But only drained on the level surface for about 5 to 10 minutes until the fluid was in a slow drizzle..

Is that expected?