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Hey guys;
2004 Forester XT.
I have no issues with the vehicle at 63K miles, but today, after driving about 150 miles, I thought I should check the transmission fluid while the car is warm.
I recall that the engine must be hot and running in neutral or park.
The vehicle had been driven for about 5 hours and then turned off for about an hour before I restarted it and checked the fluid. The fluid level appears to be low - the fluid appears to be at or below the low line on the dipstick, but I'm not sure if the engine is hot enough. I'll check it again tomorrow after driving for about 1/2 hour.-
I don't recall whether I ever had the fluid changed, and since I haven't been driving much, I don't check it regularly.
If it's low, what symptoms can I expect? I didn't notice anything odd while driving today.

I'm away from home now, but I'm sure I can find an auto parts store if I need to buy fluid and add it myself—except that I don't know where to add it. Do I use a special funnel to add fluid to the dipstick tube, or is there a filler like the oil cap?

Thanks for your help
FW2016
 
@fw2016
You are okay if the fluid level is between the low and full marks, so being on the low side of the dipstick won't hurt anything, and you won't have symptoms.

Maybe more importantly, what does the fluid on the dipstick look like?
It should be a translucent pink color.
If it's dark you should drain and change the fluid rather than adding new fluid to the old murky stuff.

It's an easy DIY to do a drain and fill and it's a low risk procedure, as opposed to a flush, which is a one and done at a shop, but more than a few people have reported transmission problems after doing a flush.
Innocuous particles that will drain out can be forced into places that cause problems with a flush.

A full transmission when drained will give you just short of a gallon of transmission fluid, and a refill will use just short of a gallon to refill it.

Use Subaru HP ATF or Idemitsu ATF who makes the ATF for Subaru .

You'll need a socket or wrench to remove the drain bolt, a pan to catch the old fluid and a funnel/hose to refill the transmission through the dipstick hole.

After filling, let the car warm up and check the fluid level while the engine is running.

The drain and fill won't drain the fluid in the torque converter, so after putting some mileage on the transmission, repeat the drain and fill after some mileage. I do my drain and fills with oil changes as I'm already under there.

After the third drain and fill you'll have pristine fluid and your transmission will appreciate the TLC with longevity.
 
@DragonSubie7,
Thanks;
How hot should the engine be when checking the dipstick, and how much fluid do I need to add if it's below the low line?
When I checked this afternoon, I wasn't even sure there was any fluid on the dipstick at all; If there was, it was more clear than translucent. If the fluid is below the low line, and not even showing on the dipstick, how much fluid do I need?
I would have expected the transmission to slip of be sluggish when shifting if the fluid was dangerously low. Isn't there also an 'idiot light' that comes on if there is a problem with the transmission?

I am a bit worried, but not too much, since the car was driving well today.
Thanks again for your advice.
 
I'm in luck. There is a hardware store a block away from where I am staying in Ludlow VT. They have the Coastal "Dex Merc" fluid in stock and are open on Sunday. I will warm up the car, drive a bit, and come back to check the fluid.
Interesting thought: I don't recall ever needing to add transmission fluid to any of the vehicles I have owned. I guess the only way the fluid can get low is if there is a leak, or if the transmission is overheating and burning the oil. I don't suspect either on my vehicle.
 
When properly filled you typically don't need to add fluid, but if you look at the owners manual, you do need to change it.
It's also a good idea to check it, as with other fluids in the car, so that you can catch a problem before it becomes a failure.
As far as "how hot" - As posted above in this thread from the manual, there is a complete description of what you need to do to check it. Drive the car 3 to 5 miles and it will be warmed up properly to check it while it is running.

For the 2004 XT, Subaru recommends ATF HP, but Dexron 3 might have been was the previously recommended fluid for your Subaru, and that's could be what is in it, or not.

You didn't mention what the fluid looks like - Is it translucent and red/pink?
If not, you will be adding new fluid to the old stuff that may need to be drained and refilled....
 
I didn't see any fluid on the stick. If there was any, it was clear, or maybe the lighting was poor. I will re-check this morning after driving a short distance to warm up the engine.
As far as what the proper fluid is, I would think that if the fluid is low, adding any high quality fluid would be better than none at all.
I'll check the manual first though.
It's Sunday in Ludlow VT, so I don't have much of a choice as to where I can buy fluid. If I drive to Rutland, I'm sure I'll find more choices. There may be an AutoZone there.
I don't know about having the fluid changed, but maybe one day this week when the weather gets too hot for hiking, I'll take the vehicle in for service. I would think that any shop could change transmission fluid. It's not really something I want to do myself. I have trouble getting under the car, and it's a messy job. that said, I did change my own oil before I left.
 
Thanks for the advice.
I once took a vehicle to a Jiffy Lube and after they changed the oil, i heard a rattling in the engine. I don't recall what I did to remedy the problem, but I never went to another quick-change place.

As for my ATF; I re-checked this morning while the vehicle was cold. I can see the fluid level is at the 'low' line. It appears to be clear in color.
According to the manual, there are supposed to be two sets of marks on the ATF dipstick; one set for cold, another set for hot.
I only saw one set of marks.
I also checked my power steering fluid. It is at the cold min line, so I would like to add to bring it about halfway between cold min and cold max.
The manual says to use Dextron III for both the transmission and power steering, and never mix brands. I will check the local hardware store, but if they don't stock Dextron III, I will look for an AutoZone, or find a Subaru dealer.
 
Picked up a 2011 Forester for kid to drive. Starting to replace trans fluids, and first drain and fill only used 3 quarts until the dipstick reads full on the Hot ( higher side).

But only drained on the level surface for about 5 to 10 minutes until the fluid was in a slow drizzle..

Is that expected?
 
Update:
I went to the local hardware store. They had two types of transmission fluid, and both claim to be compatible with vehicles specifying Dextron III. One was regular, the other was full synthetic. I almost bought the full synthetic, but the guy at the register advised me against mixing synthetic with regular fluid. I don't know which type my vehicle has in it now, so I didn't buy either.
He recommended a mechanic several miles away, but of course not open on Sunday. I should probably take the car there for a change of fluid. I know that I haven't had anything done to the tranny since 30K miles, and the vehicle has 63K now.
The power steering uses the same transmission fluid.

I can probably wait until I get home and take the vehicle to my regular mechanic; I just wanted to make sure that I'm not low on tranny fluid.
 
Update 2 - June 16 @ 15:12
I took a 5 minute ride to warm up the engine, then checked the ATF dipstick while the engine was running in Park.
The fluid is at the top mark, so it's full. The color is clear, which I understand indicates that it is a synthetic fluid.
I guess when I checked the fluid last evening, the lighting wasn't good, and because the fluid is clear, I didn't see it on the stick.
I could use a small amount of power steering fluid, but again I am unsure of whether it is a synthetic or conventional ATF.
It looks darker than the fluid in the transmission, but again it's difficult to tell. I'll have a better look at that sometime during the next few days.
 
@JRager
Yeah, you are only going to drain what is in the pan. The bulk of the fluid remains in the torque converter. It is important, however, to check the transmission level correctly after you do this job.
 
I have no idea why the fluid in my vehicle's tranny is clear. Maybe it's me, but I am definitely not colorblind.
I read that different types/brands have different dyes in them. Perhaps the one in my car is clear enough to identify it as synthetic.
I didn't change the fluid myself last time; it was done at a shop at about 30,000 miles.
This website describes a 'clean, clear fluid with virtually no odor as being new transmission fluid:

They state that many manufacturers have strayed from the classic 'cherry red' color of ATF.
 
@donkpow
I didn't measure fluid, I simply drained and assumed because everyone said about 4 qts, that would be about ball park. After 2 QTs put it dipstick below the first cold fill hole mark. 3 Qts through it just above the top hole on Hot...so I'm leaving it there.
 
@JRager
Did you follow the normal procedure?
Did you measure the level with the car running after going through the gears?
With the auto, you can't just put in fluid and check the dipstick.... Well you can, it's just not a valid measurement.
You might want to check it again after driving the car, parking it on a level surface and checking the dipstick while the engine is running, or you just assume everything is fine..
You are very likely ~ 2 quarts low,
Your transmission - Until you need to replace it..
 
Am I correct in assuming that today's vehicles have better sensors to warn drivers when fluids get low?
I was told that in older models, if the oil light came on, you're already damaging the engine. I would hope that manufacturers have improved on those sensors by now.
 
I checked my database. The last time I had the transmission serviced was at only 15,000 miles ago.
During my 150 mile trip home from Vermont, I observed nothing unusual about the tranny. Judging by the engine RPM gauge, there was nothing unusual going on. If there was a problem, I would expect to see sudden spikes in RPM while the tranny is shifting gears.
 
Every post here says to do it running if you are going to check it cold.
Dang @2004XT_Auto, that was a painful read back from your 2017 posts... did you ever start reading the dipstick with the engine running and shifting through the gear first?

If you don't run the engine, you risk having the torque converter and other passages in the valve body being empty and draining back into the pan resulting in a high reading on the dipstick.
 
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