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2012 - diesel MT - Burp, Bleed, Purge - few techniques to consider!

11K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  donkpow  
#1 ·
Bleeding all the air out of a Subaru cooling system is undoubtedly an endurance event, it should be an Olympic Sport.

It would appear that a vacuum fill of the cooling system, would be the most ideal method. Which theoretically could mean no burping required. There seems to be a few workshop tools out there, however probably costly for DIY.

* for the models that have them, don’t forget the bleed port on the Heater hose line*

I think a similar setup could be achieved using a mityvac hand pump, which is more affordable, and more likely to come in handy for many other tasks on and off the car. All that would be needed is the mityvac (pressure/vacuum model), radiator cap adapter (which mityvac also make), some hose and a ‘T piece’ adapter (between mityvac and radiator cap, with another hose going into the new coolant bottle). Pinch off hose to coolant bottle, then pull a vacuum on the cooling system. When sufficient vacuum is reached, un-pinch the coolant bottle hose, and there you go.... coolant in, no air. If you run out of vacuum, pinch off hose again, and pull more vacuum.

Alternatively...

Fill cooling system, leaving a little space in the header tank. Using mityvac, pressurise system (don’t exceed normal working pressure), then pull a vacuum (careful not to suck up any coolant). A series of these seems to pull the trapped air out, and may work even better with squishing the radiator hoses to give the air bubbles a nudge.

If you don’t have a mityvac, I found you can get a similar result, by placing your hand over the radiator filler. To slightly pressurise, simply put your hand over the opening (to create a seal), and squeeze the hose. To pull a slight vacuum, squeeze hose so that coolant is just at the top of the filler, place hand over the opening, and let the hose go quickly (the faster the hose expands back, and the greater the displacement, the better). Alternate to other hose(s), when the coolant level stops dropping. Would probably work better if overflow line was blocked off, or pinched (but I didn’t).

If radiator hoses are old, cracked, stiff... etc. excessive squeezing may cause further deterioration. So caution should be exercised, as it could weaken the hose, and lead to a blown hose.
 
#4 ·
Lisle Coolant Funnel.
Works really well.
I accelerate the engine until the thermostat opens 3 times.
Works every time. No trapped air bubbles at all. ( I also open the block plugs and thermostat housing to get 95% of the old coolant out.).
 
#5 ·
In my experience, burping can take place in a less intrusive way, just open the cap and add coolant every morning till the coolant level stays at the same spot. Eventually there will be no air in the system. Also the service manual describes a rather easy way.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
I solved all my Coolant-Replacement "burping" problems by adding a HIGH-POINT-VENT to my 2016 Subaru : the High-Point that captures and holds a LOT of Air is in the Vehicle Heater Return-Hose .
I cut that hose just inside the Engine Bay, leaving about 1.5" of free FireWall Return Hose for installing my 1/2" TEE-Fitting in which I had Side-Soldered a standard Petcock Valve . Upon Installing, I pointed the Pet-rooster UP so it could be cracked and SLOWLY release the (large -! ) amount of Air that would not go down-hill toward the Engine : PROBLEM SOLVED !

Using this Installation , I have been able to quickly and easily remove the final trapped air the several times that I had to drain for various maintenance reasons ; for those with the miss-adventure of the Thermal-Valve System , with its different internal Cycles , you may need to re-heat the Engine several times to Nurse-Maid the Trapped air from all those contorted new passages , but they all seem to be at relatively LOW Points, above the Engine, so those Air Pockets should move much more easily toward the Outlet, than the Trapped-Air back by the FireWall coming from the Passenger Heater Core .... : "should" being the Magic-Word !

All Coolant Systems (or any Heat-Transport-Fluid-System ) definitely need not only Low-Point-Drains for Flushing OUT Fluid, but also need High-Point-Vents to remove Trapped Air that gets stuck in remote areas of higher Piping.
 
#10 ·
@Raymond3006 You know, you just edit your post and don’t need to quote yourself three times in a row. :ROFLMAO:
Where is the Magic-EDIT-button HIDDEN ... !!!!! ... ????

I double-checked and triple-checked my Post, and it was Perfect when I finished Typing AND right up to where I pushed the [POST REPLY] Button ; so it was not on MY End (KeyBoard) that the conversion of Spell-Typing is occurring , it seems to be something happening AFTER I Push "Post" , apparently at or inside the Forum's Equipment ; I was trying to DeCode what ever Function that someone has added to the Web-Site .
Maybe the Forum's Admin can chase down what is messing with the completed Messages, after I Push "Post" ..... !!!
Term Involved: "PetCock" , an Automotive Piece of Equipment, usually installed on a Cooling System Low-Point-Drain , like on the Bottom of the Radiator .....
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
EXACTLY !
That takes care of the Front/Upper Part of the Cooling System; for those who have trapped AIr in the Rear/Heater-Core part of the System, the High-Point Vent I made from a 1/2"-Copper-TEE, and a Drain Pet-rooster (soldered into the Branch Side) completely gets rid of all the Air that will not move Forward due to SLOW Coolant Velocity in that Part of the Coolant-System.
 
#16 ·
EXACTLY !
That takes care of the Front/Upper Part of the Cooling System; for those who have trapped AIr in the Rear/Heater-Core part of the System, the High-Point Vent I made from a 1/2"-Copper-TEE, and a Drain Pet-rooster (soldered into the Branch Side) completely gets rid of all the Air that will not move Forward due to SLOW Coolant Velocity in that Part of the Coolant-System.
You should get a patent for your Pet-Rooster system. :ROFLMAO:
 
#17 ·
You should get a patent for your Pet-Rooster system. :ROFLMAO:
It is a problem BURIED inside the Software of this Forum ..... ; only shows its UGLY Head after I push the [Post Reply] Button , till then it reads correctly !
I went to the Effort to use the "Edit" Function, and in that is ALSO looks right, then Post-Editing, it ALSO Converts to the WRONG words !
I think the System is POSSESSED .... !!!!!
Who-ever is behind this should work for the CIA , or the KGB ; their Skills are being WASTED Here !!!
 
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