I know this is an older thread, but I have a 2016 XT which just rolled past 18k miles and I am currently showing 22.0 psi as my max boost on the MFD gauge. I wonder if I might have a leak, because my gauge isn't at all steady at WOT and higher in the RPM range, it kinda bounces around a bit between 15-20 psi. I had just assumed that the gauge wasn't super accurate and was just to give us something pretty to look at.
I haven't noticed any sort of irregularity in how it runs at WOT, unless it has been like this form day one. It's bone stock, has had the regular interval maintenance by my Subaru dealer, and has also had the recalled air intake duct replaced.
Yes the gauge is not accurate and will round up. If it drives and feels the same as it has since it was new I would disregard the gauge issue. However Below is some info you may or may not find useful: :grin2:
Our target boost pressure stock is around 16psi with an error threshold of around 4psi. I live at sea level so stock I would see momentary 20-21 peak boost. Depending on throttle position, simulated gear, mph, and rpm the ecu will dial back the boost.
The max boost you will see will also be dependant on ambient intake temp and altitude.
WOT at high RPM you should see your boost start to decrease after around 5k from my experience it's an ECU correction/protection. MPH does make a difference in how high the ECU will allow your boost to go at WOT it may let you hit a max for a certain amount of time then dial it down as your speed increases.
Another point is the factory recirculating BOV leaks and has a very small diaphragm. It's actual design from stock is to not actually close all the way until you are over 5lbs of boost. This becomes more prevalent when you start doing power upgrades like a pro tuned stage 1.
And then of course is the fact that Subaru uses SH@T worm clamps which are prone to failure and leaking especially on the charge side of the intake system. (Turbo to BOV/Charge Pipe to TMIC to Throttle Body Input) Search Danzo hose clamp fix.
I'm running a custom Stage2 "light" and I can tell you once I changed my BOV to a direct replacement recirculating upgrade my boost cutoffs per tune (Performance I and S are 16psi, with S# at 19.5psi and my Econ Tune with a max of 13psi.) my cut offs are accurate +/- >0.5psi.
I replaced all suggested hose clamps, added an AEM intake, Accessport and a had a protune stage 1 done. I then installed an aftermarket TMIC and the difference in less negative pressure charge pressure between the upgrade and the stock one made my spool up night and day, as far as how fast it was and how linear the boost response is. (this was without any retuning yet)
If all your clamps are good and you are sure you have no leaks (except what the stock BOV does internally) add a Cobb Accessport and just run stage 0 if you don't want to mess with performance gains. Their basic ECU corrections will make your boost more linear and you will have less boost spiking.