Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner
  • The "Garage" feature is for images of YOUR VEHICLE/S only - no blanks or other unrelated images please, thanks
41 - 60 of 69 Posts
Discussion starter · #41 ·
Why did you go with the turbosmart over the oem wastegate and what is the spring rate on it? Did you preload the actuator? Also going ewg is not the only answer you can port the turbo to also solve that problem for very little money or even do it your self. Did you put on the stock airbox it makes a big difference. When i was looking for more boost on my vf52 on the stock box i could not hit more then 21psi or so and by switching to a aem intake we were able to achieve ALOT more boost but settled on 24 psi or so on e85.

The actuator is supposed to have better control over the boost curve due to larger diaphragm. It has a 7lbs spring in it.

I haven't put the old air box in yet, still need to find the bolts...and even though it will cost a good penny, I really hate to have to "un-mod" the Foz.
 
I forgot that you had that actuator. My money is on that, it's directly responsible for the wastegate. Do you still have the OEM actuator? I've never really heard of people bothering with changing the actuator and I think it's one of those parts I would only look into changing if there was a problem (like a BOV).

I have a Grimspeed EBCS. One port is VTA (the port that would run back to the inlet and the port on the inlet is capped). That's the way EFI installed it and my tuner said its right when I asked so I left it as is. I know there's no pills in it as I re-did the hoses myself after getting everything installed (I didn't like how they were run).

Just to clarify, you don't have to VTA, you can run the line back to the inlet also. I have no idea why they did it that way or what the advantage may be, but EFI did that and my tuner agreed.
 
Save
Discussion starter · #43 ·
well that's curious. i just followed the instructions Cobb gave for the EBCS:

6. Using the supplied 4mm vacuum hose, press one end over the plastic turbo inlet fitting and
route the hose back to the COBB solenoid. Cut the vacuum line to an appropriate length and
press the end of the line onto PORT 1 on the COBB solenoid.
7. Using the supplied 4mm vacuum hose, press one end over the wastegate nipple and route the
hose back to the COBB solenoid. Cut the vacuum line to an appropriate length and press the
end of the line onto PORT 2 on the COBB solenoid.

8. Using the supplied 4mm vacuum hose, press one end over the compressor housing nipple
and route the hose back to the COBB solenoid. Cut the vacuum line to an appropriate length
and press the end of the line onto PORT 3 on the COBB solenoid.
I'll most likely be checking the actuator arm, possibly going back to stock, if that doesn't help, put the stock air box on (booo)
 
Yup, not saying that's wrong. When I installed an HOA in my SG, I ran the third back to the inlet with no problem. I have no clue what difference it makes but there must be some reason. It seems wrong to me as that's metered air escaping the system, a very small amount, but there none the less.

If you have the OEM actuator, definitely start there, but tell your tuner (Mike?) first.
 
Save
I know i wouldnt want to go back to stock airbox either. What i personally would do is upgrade to some id or cobb 1000cc injectors and tune it to around 21-22psi and let her eat. The vf52 loves 20-24 psi with no issues as long as you have good 93 oct it should be good to go. Can you post a log because true boost creep will keep climbing in boost as the rpm rises instead of tapering as it runs out. What is your boost pressure at 5500-6k?
 
well that's curious. i just followed the instructions Cobb gave for the EBCS:



I'll most likely be checking the actuator arm, possibly going back to stock, if that doesn't help, put the stock air box on (booo)

ok , you have it hooked up in "option 2"

pill is not absolutely need but will change whats happening

the directions also say to "remove restrictors" but the guy on the phone will say differently sometimes

I'm gonna go back w/ my first instinct , instead of second guessing myself and fishing for more info

turbosmart actuator
 
Save
Discussion starter · #47 ·
ill update the actuator dilemma (if there is one) once i get some time to actually work on my ride.

The IWG75 has seemed to be ok with my summer tune, however it has required some tweaking in order to loose an odd diaphragm noise ( had to loosen it a bit) but boost was still within reason. Might just need 1 more turn of loosening...or might just need to go back to stock.

NYC is currently thawing with our 1st real rain of the spring. so ill have the ability to really get the hood open and get my hands dirty as I dont have an available covered space.

i've heard a lot about the VF52 being a serial boost creeper so we'll see.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
update:

so put the stock actuator on, same over boost. and since I eventually would like to get new injectors/pump I will be leaving the Cobb air box on. So, EWG seems to be the answer.

Only problem now is that my Cobb heat shield doesnt fit because of the VF52 actuator arm gets in the way...anyone have to deal with that?

BTW, SH guys what fuel pump are you running and what is a direct fit? (if there is one)
 
^^Not sure why the COBB wouldn't fit over an OEM vf52 actuator that sounds strange. I'm running a DW65, that's the only one that's a direct fit from what I know. However I think I've heard of a couple of failures recently, so you may want to check into that.

Has your tuner looked into the overboost and tried to adjust anything?
 
Save
Discussion starter · #50 ·
^^Not sure why the COBB wouldn't fit over an OEM vf52 actuator that sounds strange. I'm running a DW65, that's the only one that's a direct fit from what I know. However I think I've heard of a couple of failures recently, so you may want to check into that.

Has your tuner looked into the overboost and tried to adjust anything?
yes, i've sent him logs and even with the waste gate fully open im over boosting.
 
I have had the same problem with over boost on my VF54 turbo on a 2010 XT. I installed the CNT downpipe with the divorced wastegate so that may be my problem. Everything is stock in front of the turbo (air intake, bov).
 
First check I would do for an over-target boost problem is logically isolate the problem to either hardware or software.....

Run (pill-less!) tubing from turbo outlet direct to actuator. This takes the EBC and it's tune out of the equation, and tests for a bad actuator or restrictive wastegate.

Test drive, watching boost carefully, boost should not exceed 'actuator control pressure' whatever that is; may be 7psi/12psi, doesn't matter. Even at full throttle you should never get above this pressure.

If the overboost is gone, you have a control/tuning/EBC issue.

If it still overboosts, you have 100% got a boost creep issue, which might be as easy to cure as a simple port of the exhaust-to-flap radius.
 
Save
You could just disconnect the EBCS wire. It's normally open so it act the same as running the hose straight to wastegate actuator.

You would have to plug in your OEM boost solenoid to prevent triggering CEL.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
daddy bought EWG. I've been very careful with my build and has been worked on by 2 reputable shops (AZP, PAS) and have been working with a tuner who knows his trade.

As far as I can gather from all the could be this and could be that, the VF52 is well documented for having this issue in varying degrees. So really, port the WG or go EWG.

Benefit to going to an EWG is that no matter the season/temp I will have perfect boost. Sucks its all in a $1000 upgrade with parts and labor. This however leaves the door open for hitting higher boost targets in the future if I decide to get new injectors.
 
41 - 60 of 69 Posts
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.