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2012 Forester XT Touring Auto
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2012 Forester TX Touring, bought June 2019 w/ 70k miles on it. It has most bells and whistles you could ask for, so just starting out slowly with some cosmetic addons before starting with suspension/engine.

Done:

AUDIO:
  • Infinity REF6522IX 6.5"
  • Pioneer DMH-2660NEX Head unit
  • Maestro RR2 module w/SU2 wiring harness
LOOKS:
  • SUBARU Genuine C1010FG200 STI Shift Knob
  • Genuine Subaru SOA342L126 License Plate Frame
  • OEM E231SSC000 Hood Protector Kit
  • J101SSC000VW Obsidian Black Pearl - body side moulding
  • J1010SC100VW Obsidian Black Pearl - Sports grille
  • Rallyarmor Mudflaps MF11-UR-BLK/RD
  • Hella Horn kit from Subimods
  • STI Steering wheel
  • LED 'gradual' side mirror turn light lamps (Aliexpress generic)
PERFORMANCE:
  • Pedders springs #PED-804015
  • Cobb SF instake
  • Invidia 2 bung downpipe HS08SW1DOC
  • Invidia Q300 catback HS08SW4GT3
  • Cobb AP V3
  • Mishimoto throttle body hose MMHOSE-SUB-ITBRD
  • Mishimoto TMIC MMTMIC-WRX-08
  • Grimmspeed EBCS #057032
  • Turbosmart BPV TS-0203-1209
  • 18X8 ENKEI TUNING TSP6 GUNMETAL
    245/45R-18 SUMITOMO HTR A/S P03 XL
Upcoming:
  • Whiteline swaybars and end links
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Pics of the licence plate holder and shifter knob.

- I did put rubber bump pads on the bottom back of the holder since it only attaches on the top, keep it from scratching.
- the STI shifter knob I got on Amazon for about $75, which was much cheaper than any other site. It's weighted and has a really high quality feel.

- front speakers are in using Metra 82-8900 adapters and some high density foam tape to take care of any rattles.
- rear speakers CAN use 82-8900, however it's not perfect. Preferably use SAK032_55-1
- Metra 72-8104 adapters for the wiring
- front speakers are wired from the front and not through the door cut out. The foam tape provided enough clearance to put the wires in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I mean, there is little question if you should replace the stock speakers. Even with the stock head unit, the difference is night and day with frequency response. Just look at the driver magnet size, it's just silly. Rear stock speaker in picture.

---EDIT 7/1/19---
These speakers sound really really good. Being an audio engineer I'm hyper aware of fidelity and frequency response. The Infinitys sound full and balanced even on the stock head unit. Pretty good low end for what they are. They also a +3dB switch on the tweeter to help get the highs out through the door speaker covers. Useful for balancing out back to front highs if you have tweeter sails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
- front hood protector E231SSC000
- side door guards J101SSC000VW

Install is easy for both. Door guards especially easy if you have good magnets to hold the templates on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@trajik78 Saw in your first build you went with Swift Springs but saw for this one in the upcoming you mentioned you're gonna go with Pedders. Were you not happy with the Swifts?
I was happy with the performance of the Swift springs. Did add 1/2" butt spacers to get the rake situated. And the ones I had were the older ones which were a bit higher than the revised springs tat came out a while ago. The Pedders are just a bit lower without being crazy. Hoping they don't need butt spacers. (soz for the late response!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did 4 corner brakes and rotors. Used Powerstop CRK6082 kit. These are "Geomet" coated to help with corrosion. Being up in NY, I'm hoping this helps with the salt.

The original brakes were ok stopping wise, but definitely felt uneven and rough. This kit is so much smoother. Rockauto had a good deal and then got a Powerstop rebate too. So paid $229.51 plus a $40 rebate.
535158
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Also changed brake fluid that was probably 80k old. Mavis did it for $75. Brakes feel slightly more responsive especially under hard braking.

Next is front control arm bushings. These things are notorious for wearing out. Hitting pot holes and big bumps it's noticeable that they need to be changed. Using this kit: Energy Suspension 19.3102R. Goodbye rubber hello polyurethane!

UPDATE

After calling shops and pricing out having the bushings pushed out of the existing lower control arms, it didn't make sense economically to do it. I bought a pair off of Rockauto which have all the bushings in them already and was much cheaper than paying for tons of labor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Pedders springs are on new KYB shocks. I ended up getting the whole strut assemblies since they come with new top hats and the other stuff that's good to replace. So I changed the springs myself, then had my local shop put them on and do an alignment. I was charge $350 cash price for those looking for a ballpark. I'm very happy with the drop height...not too low and still has enough give to make city driving bearable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, Cobb SF intake has been installed (mostly)...I say that due to one of push retainers on the stock air "director" does not want to go in due to the angle of it being a bit more clockwise than is allowed by this new revision of the SF.

It has a new crushed black feel to it, new Cobb branded plastic washers for the hex screws on the top plate. All that's nice, much of the rest is the same as the first one I had on my 2009 FXT. (see sig for build log)

Next coming, bought and paid for is a turbo back Invidia exhaust (Q300 muffler). I'm so happy I didn't get anything else, because this is what I REALLY wanted. Not often you see the little Invidia badge under a car, but when you do, I think it's dope AF.

Cobb took their Stage 2 maps offline, so hopefully someone can pass them along. (PM me)
Car White Hood Light Black
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Invidia turbo back is in. I still need to replace the throttle body hose, which makes a "whistley flappy" noise due to it having folds in the rubber. At higher boost they unfold and make noise...so thats coming, and why not while im there put in a new TMIC?

btw, all the I needed to snap/sheer off while trying to remove did. Mainly on the heat shield and DP to midpipe bolts. Everything was pretty much rust wielded together, hah.
Automotive side marker light Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle registration plate Car Vehicle

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light Window
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tried using an eBay TMIC that was like $240. Just dont. Fitment was trash and didn't include a turbo to intercooler gasket, and it was unable to use the stock rubber o-ring like the Mishimoto TMIC does. Good news was they accepted my return!
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Car Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Got a STI steering wheel from eBay. It feels brand new and got it for $70 shipped which I feel is a steal. Only issue is slight fitment issue which seems to be on the right hand side of the air bag...just a little off-center...anyone have the same issue?

EDIT----

Just rotated the button bezel a bit clockwise (didnt think i could)...looks better now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Found a great used Mishimoto TMIC on FB marketplace being sole in NJ....and the guy knows my (our) tuner MKTuned who's on the site. Gave me a great deal on it as he went FMIC. Fits like a glove and is just another testament to not buying cheap eBay parts which as far as I've experienced are not engineered to any sort of standard and fitment is almost always guaranteed to...just not. Best news is that it fits with my SPT strut brace installed! I was very much fearing it wouldn't and I'd either have to go without one, or buy a different (Cusco/Whitline) brace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Forgot to mention that Grimmspeed has changed the braket on the EBCS, and there is no documentation on how to properly mount it that is up to date. Through an email they verified as much and recommended tht the proper place to install was the LGT option, which puts one of the ports directly inline with the alternator and makes the hose take a very sharp turn which may pinch. I ended up mounting it like the PDF shows which is under the existing bracket. You will need to find a nut for the OEM screw to mount it this way, but it tucks it underneath the bracket. You will need a bit of extra vacuum line from the port that connects to the air inlet, but it seems to be the way to go. You can see where it is in the picture above with the TMIC.
 

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