If it's a Subaru fitting then it should be a TD04-13T unless it has been modified or is an after market branded hybrid (such as Andy Forrest AF04H which is a TD04-15G and some other nice stuff) but they are usually marked by the engineer. If you come across a modified TD04 (I rebuilt and modified mine and it now has the 19T compressor) it won't be carrying the Subaru relative part number on the plate, as in your picture. A bit more info on your Foz would be helpful and your location, Israel I'm guessing? Territory makes a big difference on model specification too so engine and transmission info below your avatar will more likely elicit a response to any question you ask. For what purpose did you buy the turbo etc? What are you looking to get from it?

If you wish to rebuild it, the kit you need is for a superback (the shape of the rear side of the compressor wheel, as opposed to a flatback). BMWs and a few others use the FB wheel but Subaru, Saab, Volvo and many others use the superback however, the turbine wheels on these turbos vary depending on the car maker in question. If you plan to do anything with it, other than just install it, ask away and we will provide whatever help we can, and welcome to the site.

 

Thanks a lot mate,
I'm a little concerned about the state of the compressor wheel,
If it's Critical and requires renovation, Or the axle is in good - quite reasonable condition ?

I'll wait to hear your opinions..

 

 

The TD04 is plain bearing turbo so there should be a little sideways play on the shaft (which is taken up by the high pressure oil feed from the engine so the bearing 'floats' on the oil film) but no give from front to back. The shaft should spin quite freely and smoothly without any roughness or ginding/scratching. If there are marks on the compressor housing where the blades have touched, then the bearings are shot. If the compressor blades are bent or chipped this can throw the wheel out of balance taking into account these things can, in theory, spin up to 100K rpm. Do you have access to a camera so that you can take a photo down the inlet and put it up here for us to see?

As far as worn bearings go, this is not the end of the world as rebuild kits are widely available but it depends on your mechanical skills and how adventurous you are as to whether you tackle a rebuild. The first time I did it (I've now stripped, modified and rebuilt this particular model around 10 times) I was stepping into an unknown realm but I found an excellent pictorial tutorial for a Volvo TD04 rebuild (except for the inlet and outlet castings, it's essentially the same unit) that made the job quite easy. If you decide to do this, let me know and I will see if I can guide you in the right direction and pass on a few vital but rarely published tips I picked up along the way. If you bought a rebuild kit and gave it to a mechanic to do, by the time they have charged for their work, although your turbo is now almost as good as new, you might have spent more than replacing this suspect one.

As you haven't posted your country location this is a tricky one to advise on. There was a chap last year from Israel who came on the forum briefly after buying a bit of a dog (S turbo) and the prices he was showing for buying replacement parts, relative to import taxes etc into Israel, were quite astonishing. If this is your location, rebuilding, whether you do it or get someone else to do the job, might be the more economical approach.

The other thing about this purchase is that the 03 Forester turbo (XT) for the European market came with a TF035 turbo which is somewhat smaller than the one you have bought. Replacing this with a TD04 is easy enough in that it is a direct bolt on fit and uses the same parts the TF035 uses (oil/coolant lines etc) but, upgrading to this blower will require a re-map because the TD04 delivers a bigger charge of air and has a higher boost pressure capability, so unless you drive it like a granny you could damage your engine substantially. The remap is specific to your car so don't be fooled by any of these "chips" you see for sale that make outlandish claims. Chips are things to be eaten with fish in the UK and dipped in sauce everywhere else, not inserted into a turbo charged engines management system. The TF035 to TD04 is however a cost effective upgrade and gives gratifying grins all around for a reasonable expenditure.

What is the situation with mapping services in your locality? If the commonly used "Ecutek" system is not available to you there is another way called "Open Source Tuning" which requires a reasonable degree of understanding, a laptop, the appropriate software and a special connector cable. In very simplified terms, You link the laptop to the data connector (under the steering column) and log the engines behaviour. This is then sent to a tuner, by email, probably in the US, who writes a modified map for your engine and emails it back to you, for a fee of course. You then reconnect the laptop and download the new program. If it works straight off, great but often it will need fine tuning and so you build a relationship with the mapper. More info on this can be found in the "Engine Management, Tuning and Datalogging" section. Finding and using a recommended mapper is essential too.

OST usually works out less expensive than the Ecutek setup because there is no license fee involved but the program writers are mostly benevolent donators who constantly work on and publish the upgrades to the tuning software. Are there any tuners within traveling distance, usually guys who have a dyno? These fellas sometimes use Open Source and you are paying them for their time only. With an Ecutek remap, you pay for the initial license and the mappers time, which can be quite costly depending on your territory, and then the mappers time for any tuning tweaks thereafter but, you have to go to them or in our case (Ireland) we have access to "Jolly Green Monster", aka Simon Roe who comes over here 3 to 4 times a year depending on demand.

Also, I am assuming you are driving an XT, is this the case? The more info you supply, the more folks will chip in and help but if they aren't certain what your location and derivative is then those with the knowledge relative to certain subjects are not inspired to step forward. TD04s? I have learned a bit and always help where I can when someone asks about them :smile:.

 

The TD04 is plain bearing turbo so there should be a little sideways play on the shaft (which is taken up by the high pressure oil feed from the engine so the bearing 'floats' on the oil film) but no give from front to back. The shaft should spin quite freely and smoothly without any roughness or ginding/scratching. If there are marks on the compressor housing where the blades have touched, then the bearings are shot. If the compressor blades are bent or chipped this can throw the wheel out of balance taking into account these things can, in theory, spin up to 100K rpm. Do you have access to a camera so that you can take a photo down the inlet and put it up here for us to see?

I posted Three videos that show the status of the axis,
I need to know if you have spoken about this deviation?
Situation likely?
And I'm from Israel, shipping costs a fortune to here.

Can be obtained or someone have the size gaskets Dimensions?
Like this:
http://www.maxspeedingrods.com/database/msr-au/pics/turbopart/t4-d-g(2).jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd298/min113/924TurboExhaustGasket.jpg
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/tweekerparts/dimensions/t3-turbineoutletflange.jpg

Is there a shop that can create upon request

Here are pictures of turbo directory:
AditiJessica's Library | Photobucket

thanks alot,

 

And the photos appeared while I was writing that piece. From the shots down the inlet, it looks ok, I don't see any scuffing or marking on the inlet housing wall or the blades. As with most s/h turbos, it's pretty dirty but that doesn't affect it's internal structure. If there is no marking to the inlet walls and compressor blades it might be safe to assume the bearings are in serviceable condition. Also bear in mind that these turbos are often removed from Imprezas in perfect working order merely to be replaced by a bigger one so most of the s/h TD04s are fine but tend to be left lying around in inappropriate places.

It would be a good idea to clean out the coolant pathway as it looks a bit rusty in there and squirt some oil into the oil inlet (it will drip out of the oil return at the bottom of the turbo so make sure you have a receptacle or paper underneath) and spin the shaft while listening closely for any nasty scratchy noises. A good blast with a pressurised oil like WD40 or the like should give the interior of the oil and bearing ways a good clean out as well, in case any dirt or foreign matter has got in while it was lying up. Do you have access to an air line? A good blowing out will also remove any foreign matter. If you want to clean the compressor blades in order to inspect them more closely, carb cleaner/degreaser and a small but firm artist type paint brush should do the job followed by a good rinse and dry.

A fitting kit of gaskets can be obtained very reasonably from Jawarehouse .com as some of those gaskets look unserviceable but if money is tight the second link will give you the two more important exhaust gaskets. You can make the other seals for the coolant and the oil return pipes form gasket paper bought at your local car parts supplier but the two copper "O" rings that fit on the "oil in" banjo should be replaced with new ones. If you remove them and take them into town with you, a visit to a larger plumbing store, or the motor factors, should get you a pair of the correct size for not too much money.

Subaru TD04 Turbo Oil Drain & Water Coolant Pipe Kit | eBay

Subaru Impreza Forester EJ20 EJ25 Turbo Turbine Gasket | eBay

And what a freshly rebuilt one looks like (although this one has a new bigger 19T compressor and new waste gate actuator)

 

Some videos will illustrate:

https://vimeo.com/63029885
https://vimeo.com/63029886
https://vimeo.com/63029887

 

Although I can't see any actual contact between the fins and the compressor inlet wall in the first video, that does look like too much free play to me. If there is no marking, the bearings might just be on the limit but in view of the work involved with removing and re-installing the turbo at a later date, might it be wiser to check out a seal and bearing rebuild now? If the turbo was left lying around for a while the rubber seals may not be fully intact either and there is no way to check those without operation or disassembly. A rebuild kit comes with bearings and all the seals and fittings you need.

I haven't seen plans for those gaskets anywhere but seeing as you have the turbo to hand it should be easy enough to take measurements and create a template that an engineer can use to make them for you.

 

Thank you very much.. I'll update through the progress.

By the way, in which pressure the standard/original waste gate actuator starts to open?

 

The factory TD04 WGA is set to open at 0.4BAR which means it is good up to 0.8BAR with OEM BCS. The OEM map was set to give a maximum of 0.55BAR on the EDM SF Forester and I think it's the same for the 03XT although you still haven't told us whether this is your model or you have a JDM car, if so, the parameters are quite different.

The actuator will open at 0.4BAR if it is not connected to the BCS. If it is fully connected, then the gate will start to open when the ECU tells the BCS to vent enough of the manifold pressure to open the gate for the duration required to prevent over boosting, or holding the throttle to boost ratio of pressure determined by the engine load, throttle position etc. It is possible to 'fool' the WGA by manipulating the manifold pressure away from the WGA altogether so a higher pressure than 0.8BAR can be achieved although the OEM 2 Port solenoid will usually have trouble doing this. I have a 3 port outboard boost controller and am mapped to 1.2BAR, the 2 port struggled to get passed 1BAR. A little more info than you asked for but WGAs and the boost system in general is a bit complicated so I hope I've included the bit you wanted.

 

The actuator will open at 0.4BAR if it is not connected to the BCS

That is to say he really connects directly to the compressed pressure (suction, inlet pressure)

And actually does it matter if it's connects to the turbine inlet tube (small nipel) Or intake manifold?
Maybe that might sound bit silly, but there should be adifferent air pressure in the inlet manifold itself after cooling the air by the intercooler and it's compressed air particles, against that just created by the compessor created before cooling the air..

If it is fully connected, then the gate will start to open when the ECU tells the BCS to vent enough of the manifold pressure to open the gate for the duration required to prevent over boosting,

And if I understand correctly, the 3 ports needs to be composed with the turbin compessor niple, and whit the air intake maniflod pipe, and whit the wastegate.

 

If you run a short tube from the compressor outlet nipple directly to the WGA, the gate will open once 0.4BAR is generated. The connecting points of the various tubes between the turbo, the BCS and the wastegate are all very specific. The only feed from the manifold is for a boost gauge or other devices like the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor that governs the fuel cutoff point in an emergency (over boosting).

The final boost pressure is measured after the inter cooler, in the manifold, hence the above sensor take off points.

The front of the turbo is the compressor or cold side, the back is called the turbine or hot side, no tubes are connected there, they would melt. A 3 port solenoid works in a different way to the 2 port and there is a mountain of information on this to be had online that will explain it better than I can. "Cobb Tuning" have some excellent info on their site.

 

updated pics at courant condition, (your diagnosis, opinions...)

 

Is the axle comes as a single unit with the turbine?
The nut / bolt is very tight and can not be released without unwanted power force.

 

For the most part that looks ok if incredibly dirty. The bearing housing, the part that the turbine shaft fits into, is very rusted inside and out and will need a thorough cleaning. The compressor wheel primary fins look a little battered but not in a uniform way, that is to say some of the fin tips are damage but not others, which could throw the shaft out of balance thus shortening bearing life.

Seeing as you have it apart you might as well get a service kit before rebuilding. Personally, I would buy a new compressor wheel as well for the above stated reasons but I guess all this is relative to the cost of you bringing it into Israel. I have put up a link below to a distributor from Japan but who posts from China to keep costs down and whom I get all my turbo parts from. The compressor wheel you need is the 13T. Looking on the site I can't see the seal service kit for the "Impreza/Forester TD04-13T superback" model, that doesn't mean he doesn't have them, email and ask.

For most other turbos it's kind of essential to get them balanced after rebuilding but I have run several TD04s without re-balancing after replacing the compressor wheels (while experimenting trying to find an upgrade to the stock model, choice is limited in Ireland too and prices high although not like yours). The Mitsubishi turbos are very strong and pretty well built but just bear in mind the speed these things spin at when you are rebuilding, so any short cuts or "it will do" approaches may be unwise.

When tightening the nut for the compressor wheel (left hand thread, but you found that out already) it requires very little torque. I have a 1/4" Facom socket set with a 6" long ratchet handle. I use two finger/thumb pressure to tighten this nut, do not use a standard torque wrench because very few of them except specialist tools can work at such low pressures. Because the thread is left hand and the compressor spins clockwise, it is essentially a self tightening mechanism unlike the very old TD04s which had a right hand thread. I had one of these for my first rebuild and the nut came off destroying the compressor wheel and damaging the housing and bearings quite badly too, it should have been thread locked apparently.

I can't see a listing for the Impreza 13T superback compressor wheel so best email and ask, sometimes things aren't listed on the site but he can get them.

Although you reckon you can get the gaskets made, if that falls through:
Subaru TD04 Turbo Oil Drain & Water Coolant Pipe Kit | eBay

Or if it all becomes too much:
MHI Subaru Impreza Turbo Cartridge TD04L-13T CHRA 49377-04300 | eBay