What does this additive do exactly?

According to your profile, I also have an SF auto L model. Curious if there were any other benefits other than the engine being quieter.

 

The additive decreases the rise time of the charge across the flux capacitor with out any significant overshoot, and the discharge time of the flux capacitor is greatly increased thereby providing increased load power to the ignition system. jk, but maybe. Exactly, I don't know what it does. It works and I'm ok with that without needle dicking the details.

 

People (even me) will say a engine feels better with a different fluid. But the truth is that you may have wasted your money Especially with a 3,000 mile change. Todays oil is so good the additive probably subtracts from vs adding to the oil's performance.

But, I have wasted money in the past. Best thing you can do is slap on a Fram Ultra Synthetic Filter on there.

Disclaimer: Schaeffers is a good product. Maybe there is something to it.

 

People (even me) will say a engine feels better with a different fluid.

Disclaimer: Schaeffers is a good product. Maybe there is something to it.

I do see differences across various engine oils (Pennzoil, Valvoline, Smitty's, Havoline, Super-Tech, etc) however but not like this with the added Schaeffer's oil treatment.

 

I just ordered a bottle from amazon.. 15 bucks, I spend more than that on breakfast.. We shall see if I should have went to the diner instead!

 

I personally wouldn't put it in a relatively new engine like yours. I mean what's it doing that you need an engine oil treatment? My 20 year old engine has near 200,000 miles on it and was a little noise-y at startup, so i decided to try an additive. It looks like I lucked out too.

BTW, it was on sale recently for $8.

 

The only way you will know is if you do a used oil analysis

 

And that costs how much?

 

$28 at Blackstone Labs. little less if you use NAPA kit

 

What I like about the Schaeffer website is they do not tell you what it actually does nor what is in it with either the supplied TDS or SDS. A web search indicates that it was developed for prior to 1970 engine designs and what one is adding to their oil with this product are various metals, normally associated with babbit bearings, suspended in a lubricating oil.

 

Please note to those who are running out to buy this additive. I only added half of the bottle to the crankcase. Like most people here, I too am leery of additives so I erred to the side of caution when adding it. Also, this additive is on the thick side. It's no where near snot thick as that Lucas additive though. When adding the treatment I made sure the Schaeffer's was at room temperature, well-shaken, and then slowly poured into a warm and running engine.

 

The old word for this type of stuff used to be bunkum. Now I believe it is called vaporware. Until proven via independent lab testing the stuff is no better than the claims for Marvels Mystery Oil, or STP. If you are really paranoid, change your oil more often.

 

Paranoid? You're off on this. What it has to do with is the outcome of the performance (quiet, smooth, robust) of the old engine. One can Needle Dick all the specs, analysis data, reviews, whatever all you want or even call it a funny name.

The proof is the throttle response, the pull of the engine on the highway and the quiet engine idle.

 

Moly Basics - Bob is the Oil Guy

 

It would be nice if "Bob" used his commanding web presence to provide the research to back up such claims "for today's engines" , such as a SAE paper or TUeV approval, since I am unaware that any Automobile manufacturer or gasoline or diesel engine manufacturer has approved such oil additives, especially in the present operating environment of 10-15k oil changes and engines that with recommended care see 300k+ miles of life before an engine overhaul is even considered.

 

Since I'm not a member of BobIsTheOilGuy forum, a search is more challenging.

I'm not recommending adding moly to any engine, or differential for that matter. Merely showing a link to how those favorable to the use of moly lean.

Frankly, the top performing synthetic engine oils allow for far longer engine life with longer oil change intervals, all without the risk of additives. I rely on the oil manufacturers to select which additives work best with the engine designs of today. Designs which include catalytic converters (very expensive if you contaminate them) and tiny oil passages which are designed with the lightweight oils specified (EG: 0w-20 for NA Subaru engines now.)

The mileages I get on auto engines prove my above assertion.

I see the moly fad with BMW motorcycle final drives from time to time. In that instance, considering how black the original BMW gear lube is, it may make sense to add moly, with simple gear on gear in that application.

There is no way I would add any additive to an engine oil. But then, we all have options and as the OP discussed, his engine was in poor shape for only 200,000 miles.

 

Really, poor shape? LOL, Not by a long shot. Where did I say my engine was in poor shape? Just a little noise-y that's common with our boxer engines at start-up. That's gone now. Overall, this additive has made the engine run better.

 

Geez, where did I say I was going to use it in my forester with less than 17k on it? I own a few other cars and I will be adding it to one of those.

 

I still swear by this stuff. Had a bottle sitting on my shelf, so I put it in the old girl. Again, just like I said in this old thread.

 

I am with you. I have been using Liqui Moly Anti-Friction MOS2 oil additive for the past 7 months over two oil changes, and it makes my engine noticeably smoother and quieter. The engine is at 284,500 KM. There is definitely a benefit to using it for me.

 

Liqui Moly Anti-Friction MOS2 oil additive

Glad to hear you get good results with their Engine Treatment. Liqui Moly, overall, makes great products!

Used to use their friction modifier in the gear box and final drive on my '69 Moto Guzzi. Today though I use Royal Purple's Max Gear, which is Gl-4/5 and contains their friction additive.. Gear box shifts "Like Butter".

 

What is your oil consumption?
You are wasting mega money (comparatively) by changing that often.
40wt oil will cut consumption and quiet it (probably). You are not prolonging the engine by changing so frequently. Use the Fram Titanium or Ultra oil filter. They are essentially the same.

 

@adc,
What are you talking about?

The service interval for my '99 is an oil change every 3750 miles. By doing it every Spring & Fall puts me right in that ball park.

Oil consumption is about 3/4 quart between changes. All good.

 

What are you talking about?
The service interval for my '99 is an oil change every 3750 miles. By doing it every Spring & Fall puts me right in that ball park..

3000 mile oil changes were fine for the 50's and 60's. Oil these days can easily go 10,000+ miles with no degradation in engine wear. Also 40 wt decreases wear and usage. You could easily go 1 year+.

So the total cost of that would be less than $30/year.
You are spending well north of $200/. Just trying to save you $200 year.

 

I believe that is the same stuff that my local (at the time) VW dealer tried to get me to pay extra for oil change on my '78 Diesel Rabbit. It was useless then and now

 

I was going to say the same thing.
I will also point out that the engine in a 2018 or 2022 would not need anything other than clean oil. It's not like you are combatting the effects of wear, leaks, worn seals, and high mileage. Most of us actually fall into the severe usage category with lots of short trips, cold winter starts, idling in traffic, etc, in which every major manufacturer recommends more frequent changes. But, even if you go by the book Subaru recommends oil changes based on mileage or time, the maximum time between changes is six months.

 

Dear Sir, put down the pipe and walk away. 😊 I spend approx. $50 a year on oil changes. Exactly how am I to save $200 per year? LOL. But, hey thanks for your concern.

Amazon.com : schaeffer's oil

10 quarts of Schaeffers per year=$165. 2 Filters =$16. EP Moly $33 + tax = $196

What am I missing?

 

Missing? Probably grey matter.

Where in this thread did I state I use their engine oil and/or their additive for all my oil changes?

 

I've been a member of several vehicle forums over the years and one of the common themes is the passionate discussions of oil.

The only topic that comes close is the debate over +/- 3 psi of tire pressures.

 

This thread was closed once before and now I can see why - it will be closed again if the bickering does not stop

 

You are better off changing more often rather than less, and the needs of the engine can vary over time and are not the exact same at 200,000 miles vs 500 miles on the odometer. This thread was about the perceived benefits of adding a friction additive to your engine. For me, it's been a good thing, and I am appreciative of the chemical engineering involved.