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OBD2 scanner recommendations? (merged thread)

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43K views 38 replies 28 participants last post by  sijia4806  
#1 ·
Location:
QLD, Australia
I bought a 2010 Forester and had the head gaskets, timing belt and water pump replaced. Soon after the check engine light came back on. What would be the best affordable code diagnostic and reset device since from what I've been told it will need to be cleared regularly in order to use cruise control and also in order to see if there is a serious problem that needs to be addressed? I want something that doesn't need WiFi to interact with my phone. Just something that works with the car regardless of any other stuff and preferably can remain connected without draining the battery.

Thank you for any help!
David
Maine, USA
 
#3 ·
@nopeda
The code readers are generic and work by connection to the OBD port under your dash.
You just plug it in to the port you already have.
Most of the readers will also include the capability to reset a code.

The more expensive ones will include some details about what the codes mean, and probable causes, but you can easily look the code up on the web once you have the code value.

@bbottomley 's advice is good, and is another good reason to get a reader.
You can differentiate between a minor problem (like a loose gas cap) vs a potentially serious issue.
Nothing on your dash will indicate a difference between a don't drive and don't worry problem type.

While some readers are able to provide ongoing information, most affordable units aren't really intended to be left on, and you would be a distracted driver playing with it while you are on the road.

Harbor Freight carries them and if one of those isn't local, Amazon has lots of them.
 
#23 ·
@nopeda
Nothing on your dash will indicate a difference between a don't drive and don't worry problem type.
If the Check Engine light is on steady and no drivability issues are noticed, then, generally, continued driving should be Ok. However, if the Check Engine light is flashing, it indicates the potential for damage and the vehicle should only be driven conservatively (such that the check engine light is no longer flashing) or should be towed. Continued driving with a flashing Check Engine light can cause the catalytic converter to be destroyed.

All OBD-II vehicles conform to this requirement on the Check Engine light flashing or not.
 
#4 ·
Nopeda. Someone else might correct me but depending on the fault any of the the cheaper OBD readers should be able to clear the light if the problem is from major components such as oxygen sensors. However, if you receive messages that involve problems within control boxes such as ABS faults you need a much better reader that can delve deeper than the cheaper units. If you google what I think are called Subaru DTC faults you will find there are several hundred of them.

Currently, I have a similar interest in such code readers. I have one of the cheaper units around say $60 Australian that clear simple faults but for the more complicated issues the next step up seems to be $400Aus. The next issue is can you get updates for the software and fault codes? If go the next step higher, I found one that has a $3500 yearly subscription.

I hope someone else can add some more information on your question. Can you borrow a simple unit and clear the codes to see if they come back. If they don't, a cheaper reader should do. Also, those lights should just not illuminate randomly. If they do there is a problem. My 2005 Forester with EJ engine has only had one light come on and I had to change an oxygen sensor which apparently is not uncommon with the EJ engine,
 
#12 ·
Love him or hate him, here's is an inexpensive scan tool that Scotty recommends:
So far I'm thinking of going with that idea but the usually more expensive model is now about $37 at Amazon:
unless I'm seeing that wrong. At this video:
the guy compares them and a couple of advantages of the 301 over the201 are that it's easier to use because it has more buttons and it has a power off button. So if you want to you can probably leave it connected and just turn it off without draining your battery. Right?
 
#6 ·
It really depends what you want it for. I have an inexpensive scanner that was about $60.00. It is great for reading/clearing codes, and some other basic functions. I recently upgraded to a 'Launch' brand scanner in the $200.00 range, because I wanted more functions. I would suggest a cheap one, then learn more about what you need, and what is available. Good luck.
 
#7 ·
Just bought an ANCEL AD310 off Amazon. Was $59.99, down to $19.99. Does the basic scans along with ability to clear codes. Just needed something to use and not go to Autozone when needed. Had a ton of reviews as good for getting codes and simple to use. For $20, it’ll steer me towards a resolution, hopefully.
 
#10 ·
I like the full time OBD2 monitor, UltraGauge. It gives me options to use real time custom gauge sets, warns of pending codes, alerts on current codes, allows me to clear codes, gives me custom warnings, and a bunch of other stuff. It doesn't record live readings, give you graphs, or pull freeze frame data. It doesn't appear to pull down the battery.
 
#11 ·
I think you should have immediately returned to wherever you had your engine work done as the code is probably related. There is a method to get and clear the code without a scanner if you care to look up the procedure. Otherwise, just buy a $20 Autel code scanner off Amazon and use it when you need it.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Well you can spend more if you want to, but this unit will do what you desire
The above unit will not do live data but for most of us that will not mean or matter much.
There is really no point in leaving it plugged in all the time. The malfunction light will tell you when you have a stored code, and it takes two seconds to check if you have a pending code.
 
#14 ·
I have this one here

https://a.co/d/aQxRcRM

The one in the above link is good too, Autel is a reputable brand, they even have regular updates. I keep one in each car but also have a very fancy one but I work on a lot of cars as a hobby. Most car parts stores will read the code for free but typically not turn off the code.

Sometimes the code will turn itself off after a few cycles of running the car, if the issue has been resolved.
 
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I bought a 2010 Forester and had the head gaskets, timing belt and water pump replaced. Soon after the check engine light came back on. What would be the best affordable code diagnostic and reset device since from what I've been told it will need to be cleared regularly in order to use cruise control and also in order to see if there is a serious problem that needs to be addressed? I want something that doesn't need WiFi to interact with my phone. Just something that works with the car regardless of any other stuff and preferably can remain connected without draining the battery.

Thank you for any help!
David
Maine, USA

same issue with my car - took it to independent garage today - bad news -cat Converter - $1400. yours might be a number of other things - this is just worst case scenario.
 
#20 ·
Cruise Amazon. There will be tons of basic OBDII code readers with the ability to reset the Check Engine Light. The best basic readers connect directly to the car via the OBD II port; they don't even need batteries.

Understand simply resetting the light does nothing for the underlying problem. If you reset the CEL, and there is an outstanding problem, the CEL will come back on. Getting the "P" code is just the tip of the iceberg; you have to be able to figure out what the code is telling you and what system or co-system is causing it to come on.
 
#24 ·
Looking at getting the BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro scanner. Seems like it has pretty good live data functionality. Any recommendations?

I'm not after garage grade tools, only for general DIY use and chasing some issues. Doesn't specifically need to to be BT.
 
#25 ·
I have had pretty good luck with the Vgate iCar Pro Bluetooth 4.0 (ebay) running Car Scanner ELM OBD2 (iPhone - repurposed my old iPhone and works great)
I never pay for software but I liked it enough to buy the lifetime Pro version ($7) when the free trial all access expired. The free version is still OK, but I wanted tranny temp, etc.
Not a sponsor.
 
#26 ·
I'll second @Hestheone 's recommendation. It has the nice feature of graphing/recording data which can then be displayed on the iPhone screen, or downloaded to a spreadsheet. The sample rate isn't as fast as a high-end garage unit, but a few times a second is plenty good enough for looking at something like a cat sensor voltage going through its cycle.
 
#29 · (Edited)
My youngest son and I bought an Autel which has become a great asset for several vehicles. MrSubaru likes the Topdon units. I'll add to this...My youngest learned an important lesson on quality scanners. Especially on two communications. He bought an inexpensive Bluetooth unit and within weeks was chasing DTC's popping up on his WRX. Once I found out they were communication DTC's I told him to remove the Bluetooth unit and use my handheld to remove the codes caused by the Bluetooth unit.
 
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