Also, any tips on getting to the turbo's oil line filter under the intercooler (probably has to be removed) and getting the passenger side OCV out would be much appreciated. I'll be attempting them sometime this week.

 

The banjo bolt by the turbo is much easier with the turbo removed. It's *possible* with just the intercooler off but a huge PITA.

I'm getting the P0021 code so I'm also interested in any advice on how to get at the passenger side OCV. (hopefully I'll get the driver side cleaned tonight)

Hmmmm... I thought I was getting the P0021 code because the passenger side OCV wasn't operating. That is, P0021 indicates the driver side bank is 'overadvanced' relative to the passenger side timing. Meaning that the difference between the two banks has gone outside of the set allowable window. So I figure that you're cleaning of the driver side OCV would clear your 0021 code and instead you'd only have the P0011 code. But it appears that cleaning your driver side OCV cleared your P0021 code... I would think if the driver side OCV wasn't functioning it would NOT be the side that is overadvanced, rather the passenger side would be over advancing becuase the driver side isn't advancing at all. But I'm probably just confused...:shrug:

 

I just keep thinking whatever caused cylinder 3 to blow in the first place is still at large and if I was still driving it would only be a matter of time before the new block goes kablooey. :icon_frown:

I'm currently driving my trusty 1999 Jeep Cherokee Limited though. V8 beast but it's been reliable!

 

Good thing you've got a back up vehicle... I'd have similar worries as yours, I guess what parts transfered to the new block? Did the ignition components get swapped over?

 

Pretty much everything got swapped over except gaskets and such. The dealership tested the spark, wires, and coils, but I'm starting to wonder if there's a bad injector in cylinder 3.

 

Decided to write a journal of my experiences with a blown engine. Still getting a P0303 (Cylinder 3 misfire) even after getting a new OEM short block.

First off, I had just recently purchased a 2004 FXT with 150,000 miles. Got two months of driving bliss before it's collapse. Was driving down the highway going about 65 mph when I noticed loss of power. Pushed the pedal down a little further, thinking it may just be some bad gas, then the car got REALLY jerky and the CEL started blinking. Then no power at all... Blew cylinder 3. Everything inside was toast.

Got a new OEM short block installed. Everything involved in an engine rebuild and short block installation was checked and/or replaced. Had the heads machined by a local performance shop.

Started the car immediately and it idled nice. Seems to idle great and even rev great when parked. Once the car was driven though it started throwing P0021, P0011 and P0303! It really stalled, clicked and hissed during boost when I opened up throttle more then half way.

By the time I got home there was a small amount of smoke coming from under the hood (smelled like oil). Checked it out and it seems to be coming from somewhere towards the bottom, front passenger side. Can't tell exactly where it's dripping from, but it's dropping onto some sort of exhaust/heat shield and burning. I wonder if this is a valve cover issue or the head and if this is most likely the culprit of my cylinder 3 misfire?




*UPDATE*
I changed the oil, cleaned the MAF sensor, dumped in some fuel system cleaner (for fuel injectors and such), and checked 2 of the banjo bolts (removed the filters since one was crushed - one for turbo looks hard to get without removing intercooler).

Still getting the same codes, so I brought it to the local stealership. They charged me an arm and a leg, but did all the troubleshooting of the ignition system (coils, plugs and wires), found the timing off a tooth (reset timing supposedly), and could not seem to find an answer with starting to run a compression test and getting into the engine.

Back home and put some new learned knowledge to test. Checked driver side OCV for proper function and cleanliness. Cleaned it up, flushed it with fresh oil, and stuck it back in. Started to go at the passenger side. This one is much more buried and I didn't have the time at the moment, so I left it for the moment.

Drove it around the block a few times and have so far only got P0021 and P0303. I'm about to have it brought back in to have the head on that side pulled. Maybe over machining of the head during the rebuild. Maybe I can get some feedback before have a new head installed. Would hate if a new short block and head still having cylinder 3 misfires.

What specifically was the damage to cylinder/ piston /head of #3? What was the outcome to the dealership compression test? Why do you doubt the timing belt off a tooth? Has the car been tuned, has that been checked?

 

1. Damage to the cylinder was, as described by the mechanic, "the cylinder 3 granaded". Basically everything inside (piston, rod bearing, etc.) turned into metal soup.

2. Compression test was good. Glad to here that since it just had a new short block and gaskets installed.

3. I doubted the timing issue, because of the fact it was all timed and put together during the engine rebuild (even though it's possible it was done wrong during the rebuild) and after they "fixed" the timing nothing has changed. Which would be strange if the car didn't act different with incorrect timing.

4. No, it hasn't been tuned yet. I was hoping to tune it once I get the new block and rebuild running smooth. Could it be misfiring and acting so strange during hard acceleration because it hasn't been tuned yet?

 

Hello, i had a very similar problem. I got a P0011 code and the scanner said it was a camshaft position sensor / over-advanced timing error. But i disocovered my oil was a half quart low which reduced my oil pressure. And since the oil pressure to used to advance the cams low pressure could give you the timign error. This is what i found atleast. To get to the ocv valve on the passenger side simply remove the air intake and it is the banjo bolt that is perpendicular to the ground surface. If you have the diagram from subaru it is the bolt labeled "C" the banjo bolt labeled "A" is parallel to the ground surface and does not have to be touched. Also you might want to pull the oil control valve out to make sure there are no obstructions. Most importantly remove the banjo bolt filter that supplies oil to your turbo. My turbo was blown because of this filter getting clogged. I hope this helped here are some good links with photos.

 

Good instructions! Thanx! :Banane35:

 

Sounds like next I'm going to check the cylinder 3 fuel injector and valves before trying a new head.

I still haven't figured out where the oil is leaking from on the bottom, front passenger side. Hopefully I'll find out when I check the valves.

 

The more I read online the more I'm thinking there's issues with the valve or valve cover/gaskets. There's only one way to find out...

There's a lot of great info on the web, so I'm going to attempt to take the valve cover off and take a gander. Sounds like I have some bad seals leaking oil.

If there's a valve cover leak somewhere, would that explain power loss during hard acceleration?

 

Well, since troubleshooting this was beyond myself and even the subaru dealership, I had it brought to a local subaru specialist.

He immediately suspected something wasn't right with the fuel getting to the cylinder.

• Replaced all fuel injectors and said it's running like a champ!

I doubt this fixes the small oil leak, but hopefully my misfire days are over. I'll be getting the XT back this week and I'll report back after a few hundred miles.

 

Glad to hear you *hopefully* got er fixed! Feels good I bet

 

Well I've put about 700 miles on so far and it's running better than ever. :rock:

Feels good to be in a Subaru again.