Hi,

This is the AIT (Air Intake Temperature Sensor). Its usually logged by the ECU so I am surprised that it is not showing as an option in Dash command, but could be something to do with Dash Command.

I'm pretty sure that with your car the AIT is part of the MAF.

 

but it would be coolant temp not AIT wouldnt it ?

Dash Command has AIT which is working and also had Coolant temp, however aren't there two sensors? one for the guage and one for the ECU?

 

Right,

Didn't quite understand what you were asking.

Engine Temperature is a separate sensor that does indeed check the coolant temperature and is located in the block:

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/coolant-temperature-sensor-location-6734/

'are these for the ECU or the gauge?'

Your OBD2 connection will tell you what the ECU is seeing.
I'm pretty sure that the gauge in your dash gets the reading from the same sensor as there is only one.

 

Sorry I thought there were 2 sensors , if there is just the one then dash command will let me know if it's working or not

 

I'm pretty sure but I'll double check

 

Yep, when I do search on FAST for all the parts containing the word 'sensor' there is only one coolant/engine temperature sensor.

Googling around there were two on the '98 one for the dash and one for the ECU but I don't think that is the case anymore.

 

Cool thanks for that mate. Here is the coolant temp when running on normal . Seems about right? I will check it when cold

 

When I first start my 2.5XT it idles perfect etc, however when i drive for the first mile it bucks/hesitates quite a lot.

There are no codes and when warm it drives better (albeit still hesitates sometimes).

Hi, you and I have exactly the same V. irritating issue!
I'm fast coming to the same conclusion that it is temp related too. I now have a set of cam sensors to fit (as and when). This issue has been driving me crazy enough, to swear at the car! :Banane36:
It just spoils the overall driving pleasure, as you are just waiting for the next cough or hesitation. I have replaced the MAF, so I can't see it being that. If the car is left to warm just for 2 mins before pulling away it does not seem to do it, at least, only a little, little bit. But the hesitation under light throttle increase is still there. Maybe between all of our heads we can put this one to bed once and for all. Please keep this tread alive and updated, I'd dearly love to solve this issue. :icon_wink:

 

I have replaced my MAF to no avail also.

I wonder if it's knock or fuel pump?

 

Fuel pump changed and uprated, no change :shake:

 

Have you guys tried buying a £10 VAG OBD2 cable and connecting the car up to a laptop with Romraider installed?

You could log knock sum, AFR, Advance and AIT to understand if it was a dud sensor sending signals to the ECU or something more mechanical at least.

 

I've got the obd2 wifi thing with dash command which tells you timing, far, load, map etc. I noticed that sometimes the timing is 40 degrees!

 

Another possibility is the Neutral Position Sensor, which "apparently" can play havoc with AVCS, if its dodgy.

An earlier thread with some info on symptoms

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/neutral-switch-78655/

 

Thanks for the lead Don. It would seem that further reading is required :icon_wink:

Why are these cars so darn complicated :shrug:

 

I think I'll remove the filters in the banjo bolts (15194AA270) to see if this improves my AVCS action. It may be that the the AVCS does not get a decent oil supply until the oil warms and thins a little. When it has warmed maybe improving its effectiveness :icon_question:

This might lead to the cold start lurching :icon_question:

The neutral switch apparently only effects tick over or non-throttle driving, my issue is under light to medium throttle when cool or a slight hesitation on throttle depression when warm.

 

What and where is avcs?

 

Something to read on the subject..............

Subaru Drive : Win05 What's Inside: Active Valve Control System (AVCS)

 

Have a look here http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/tsb-02-97-05-rough-5782.html?

Best look up the AVCS on the search facility ;-)
Others would be able to explain it better. I understand it just not the best person to explain how it works.

 

Interesting reading Don, thanks :icon_biggrin:
I now understand it fully, let's hope removing the filters will help to improve or even possibly fix our issue.

 

Let me know how it goes. If it's better I will look at doing mine, is it a quick job? My iphone doesn't like loading up the pics very well

 

Removed mine this lunch time. Easy as pie, less than a 20 minute job.
Mine were pretty clean to be honest, they had dropped into the the oil way though, and I needed a pair of forceps to get them out. I wiped off the banjo bolts inside and out and put them back to the same position.
I've yet to drive it cold which I'll do tonight and feed back the findings. Apparently they only put these filters in early AVCS cars and removed them on later models with no ill effects.
I was sort of pleased and, not, to see that they were clean. It means that oil was flowing and good maintenance had been carried out, but I don't think it will make a difference as the oil was probably getting through.

 

Did you bother changing the washers or just reuse the old ones ??

May have a look at mine next weekend and see what I find

 

As this was an experiment to see if made a difference I used the original washers. I'll keep an eye on them over the next week or so.
But I have to report I noticed no difference in cold driving behaviour, still lumpy and chuggy

I even tried putting the cruise control on to see if when I wiggled the "shifter" aka the gearstick. To see if the neutral switch would cut the cruise off. It didn't. So I assume that the neutral switch is also ok? But it did start in gear and I thought that if the switch works it would not let that happen :icon_question:

Next!?............

 

My defective NPS only showed up on Ecutek whilst vehicle being mapped.
It would cut in and out randomly. Was one of the parameters being logged so could see it happening on the trace screen.

 

Pondman

When were your spark plugs last changed ?

 

Don, been mapped at Tractive Solutions, no codes were found to be present that effected running. but is does not seem to be a pricey part so it might be worth a punt?

SiPie, about a year ago for a colder running set to handle the increase in boost pressure for the impending mapping.

 

I know I'm probably going over old ground here so apologies but I'm assuming the knock sensor isn't detecting any false knock and retarding things (faulty knock sensor).
Compression tests all ok ?

 

Assuming that the rebuilt and forged engine (by API) is still performing OK, it's only done 10k since it was rebuilt, so compression is assumed to be OK.
Knock sensor, well no dash codes or lights have flashed up as yet. I have an OBDII handset and it shows no current issues

 

Really strange one this as I still get the jerky running from cold but only for first few minutes, then all is fine with no signs of hesitation anywhere throughout the rev range on full or light throttle etc... I now treat it as just one of these things and let it warm up gently.

Can only wish you the best of luck as I know how annoying this is, even more so for you considering you are on a relatively new engine.