I'm looking for some advice. I want to make sure my Fozzy lasts a long time. With that said, I like to drive my car..... with spirit. So, if i plan on keeping horsepower below 300, (AP3, intake, and downpipe) What do i need to do under the hood to make sure i can drive hard and not worry about my engine sustaining damage. I'm looking for everything from internal engine mods to cooling to, whatever.
aj2789w
Like the guy before said: Good Fuel, Good Oil and Maintenance on time would be a great first step. A Good tune obviously too as you want to make sure the Air Fuel ratios are all fine - Subaru engines don't like to run lean and you will kill the engine quick by doing so.
Try running 3 tanks of the same fuel at the same grade (For example Shell 91 or 93) which is enough time to let the car's ECU adjust knock etc for the fuel,then see how it does. Then move onto another fuel (Sunoco 91 or 93?) for 3 tanks and see how it does - you'll figure out which fuel the car likes and doesn't like quick. If you're mid way running some good gas and switch to something lower octane, the computer will freak out and default back to a known safe setting You'll get poor power and mileage and you'll have to start all over again.
As for oil, at least fully synthetic, ideally a good ester based oil would be a good idea. Lots of views on here and Bobistheoilguy.com
Always warm up the engine before driving hard and let it cool down before switching off too
A Killer B oil pick up pipe would be a good idea to lose the risk of the standard pipe fracturing and messing up the oil feed to the engine.....
After that, things start getting expensive.......And may not be justifiable if you just want to drive it occasionally hard etc - If you can justify it. 4032 alloy forged pistons would be a good start, these are forged and will last better than cast for abuse. Ringland failure on standard cast pistons at 100K+ miles is uncommon but more likely with more abuse of the engine. You could go for 2618 alloy forged pistons but they aren't designed to last as long but will tolerate much more abuse. You will generally get more noise on cold startup though...To do this job, the heads have to come off and you'd be replacing the timing belt, head gaskets and engine bolts, the block would need machining and you'll want new bearings - you would essentially have a brand new shortblock - You have the potential to turn the engine into a firebreathing monster......which will lap up hard driving, even on the track..... But some could argue it might be a bit Over The Top for a road only car (Do you plan to track it?)......But it would give you absolute reliability compared to a stock engine.......The gearbox then becomes the question when it comes to reliability if you're increasing power levels by much Under 300 the gearbox should be ok as long as the fluids are changed regularly and you're not doing any 3500 RPM starts
I guess it all depends on your idea of "Driving Hard" :biggrin:
Try running 3 tanks of the same fuel at the same grade (For example Shell 91 or 93) which is enough time to let the car's ECU adjust knock etc for the fuel,then see how it does. Then move onto another fuel (Sunoco 91 or 93?) for 3 tanks and see how it does - you'll figure out which fuel the car likes and doesn't like quick. If you're mid way running some good gas and switch to something lower octane, the computer will freak out and default back to a known safe setting You'll get poor power and mileage and you'll have to start all over again.
As for oil, at least fully synthetic, ideally a good ester based oil would be a good idea. Lots of views on here and Bobistheoilguy.com
Always warm up the engine before driving hard and let it cool down before switching off too
A Killer B oil pick up pipe would be a good idea to lose the risk of the standard pipe fracturing and messing up the oil feed to the engine.....
After that, things start getting expensive.......And may not be justifiable if you just want to drive it occasionally hard etc - If you can justify it. 4032 alloy forged pistons would be a good start, these are forged and will last better than cast for abuse. Ringland failure on standard cast pistons at 100K+ miles is uncommon but more likely with more abuse of the engine. You could go for 2618 alloy forged pistons but they aren't designed to last as long but will tolerate much more abuse. You will generally get more noise on cold startup though...To do this job, the heads have to come off and you'd be replacing the timing belt, head gaskets and engine bolts, the block would need machining and you'll want new bearings - you would essentially have a brand new shortblock - You have the potential to turn the engine into a firebreathing monster......which will lap up hard driving, even on the track..... But some could argue it might be a bit Over The Top for a road only car (Do you plan to track it?)......But it would give you absolute reliability compared to a stock engine.......The gearbox then becomes the question when it comes to reliability if you're increasing power levels by much Under 300 the gearbox should be ok as long as the fluids are changed regularly and you're not doing any 3500 RPM starts
I guess it all depends on your idea of "Driving Hard" :biggrin:
^^To add to the above, wait until your OIL is warmed up before driving hard. This takes significantly longer than your coolant. Probably 10-15 minutes of driving at least (there is no way to monitor this unless you install an oil temp gauge). Change your oil at 3K. I don't care what anyone else says. We can talk about intervals all day long. Fact is the EJ is tough on oil, and not a particularly robust design to begin with (after speaking with an engine builder at EFI, I changed my approach). If you drive it hard, it's cheap insurance. Use high quality oil filters, I always use OEM oil filters on my engines after bad experiences with everyone's favorite orange can. Don't make a habit of getting deep into boost at low rpms (like when data logging). This is very tough on the motor.
I can't give you any specifics with the XT.
In general speak about engine builds you have three factors: power(HP), dependability/longevity/reliability, affordability
You can have only 2 of the 3.(this statement not to be reproduced, copied or relayed without the author's expressed written consent :bananapowerslide
It seems like you want power and dependability........so be ready to crack open that wallet.
If you build the internals with quality parts and attention to detail you can really make it last even while beating on it every chance you get.
And owning a high performance machine is a workload all its own. My 'race ready' KTM dirt bike calls for 12.5hr oil changes and 6hr air filter changes and all other service intervals are shortened when compared to a non-'race ready' machine. Adherence to the constant maintenance plays heavily into the longevity of a high performance machine, so echoing what was said above: oil.
In general speak about engine builds you have three factors: power(HP), dependability/longevity/reliability, affordability
You can have only 2 of the 3.(this statement not to be reproduced, copied or relayed without the author's expressed written consent :bananapowerslide
It seems like you want power and dependability........so be ready to crack open that wallet.
If you build the internals with quality parts and attention to detail you can really make it last even while beating on it every chance you get.
And owning a high performance machine is a workload all its own. My 'race ready' KTM dirt bike calls for 12.5hr oil changes and 6hr air filter changes and all other service intervals are shortened when compared to a non-'race ready' machine. Adherence to the constant maintenance plays heavily into the longevity of a high performance machine, so echoing what was said above: oil.
Remember what OP said for his plans, AP, downpipe, and intake - that will be dependable without spending a lot of money and being diligent about maintenance and good fluids (oil/gas) and also as Galager mentioned waiting for the car to be fully warmed up before flogging it.
Did I mention getting a good tune (i.e. not the OTS map from Cobb)?
Did I mention getting a good tune (i.e. not the OTS map from Cobb)?
Well i already change oil every 3k with full synth. in 800 miles im gonna try my first own oil change (and maybe tranny flush cause im due). Does anybody know how the gas in oregon is? or how costco gas is in general? Im good about warming and cooling before and after driving. Ill need to read more about accessport tunes and such once i get closer to that purchase. And im almost at 90k so time to start on the checklist for that maintenance.
If you're t that mileage, when you change your plugs, you might want to consider a compression test to give you an idea of what you're starting with.
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