When you swap out the blue, use ATE Super Gold. Same fluid, gold color. Makes the swap easy.

I was religious with ATE SuperBlue until I started using Motul. It's really good stuff, espically for the money!

 

I bought 2 jugs not knowing exactly how much it would take to flush and fill... better safe than sorry, right? I have plenty left to flush the wrx with ATE SuperBlue now. Woot!

 

how'd you go about flushing your fluid, cause i just put new HPS pads on and some nice Slotted racing brake rotors, but now my brake pedal feels squishier then before, and my braking hasn't really improved, it's almost like the pads are grabbing better, but the peddal hits the floor before enough pressure can be applied to really stop hard. I've got a litre of super blue waitin to be thrown in, i just don't have a clue how to flush the system.

 

Sounds like you need a bleed as much as anything. But its the same process.

 

idk how to bleed either lol, but i figure i've got new fluid so i might as well flush the whole system and get some high quality fluid in there

 

Try stop tech:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml

I never seem to have help. And I get by perfectly fine with a one man bleeder kit FWIW. But you should use two people.

 

Note the bleed order for a Subaru is different:

1) right front

2) left rear

3) left front

4) right rear

 

I bled my brakes about a year ago, but I did it in the "old" order - right rear, left rear, right front, left front. There's nothing wrong with my brakes either. What's the reason for this bleeding order?

 

The basic process which you follow at each wheel is:

- Jack the car up.
- Remove the wheel.
- Secure the car with jackstands and chocks.
- Remove the dust cover from the bleed screw. Clean off any dirt using Brakleen or equivalent if necessary.
- Attach a clear tube to the bleed screw and put the other end of the tube into a bottle.
- Have a helper gently sit down in the driver's seat and gently push the brake pedal down and up on command. The "gently" part is for safety! Stay away from the car while the helper is getting in or out.
- You open the bleed screw at the start of the down stroke and close it at the end of the down stroke.
- Then the helper releases the pedal and you do it all over again.
- You keep going till the color changes to blue and there are no bubbles visible in the tube.
- Replace the dust cover.

The process is much easier with Speed Bleeders, which are bleed screws with an internal valve that eliminates the need for the continual opening and closing. Search here for more info. Oakos Automotive sells these.

Bleed order is RF, LR, LF, RR.

You start at the first wheel by pumping quite a few times to almost empty out the reservoir. (Or you can use a pump or a turkey baster to lower the level before you start. Don't let the baster get back into the kitchen!) Then fill it back up with ATE Blue, pouring it in gently so as to minimize mixing or air bubbles. Check frequently and top it up as necessary. Be sure NEVER to let the fluid level in the reservoir get down to the bottom, or air will get into the system and you'll have to start all over.

Dispose of the used fluid legally.

 

There's a group buy locally so I'm picking up some Blue. The club has a vacular so bleeding is rather simple. I'm still learning how to do it myself.

 

Legacy (or any fellow Canadian members), any idea where (specific stores) to pick up the Blue brake fluid in Ontario? I can only find it in the states & shipping is more than the actual fluid! :icon_eek:

The folks at partsource looked at me sideways when I asked them about it (& they call themselves 'The auto parts pros'! :chair: .....they only carry 'Certified' brand stuff. :shrug: :huh:

 

Thanks for the info guys, i'm gonna use the lift at work on monday and have my friend help me out... He's extremely mechanical and knows the whole process so that should make life easier for me lol. I can't wait to have solid brakes. Really I want brakes that can cause harness bruises or detach retina's but i haven't got the money for a pimped out setup like that lol.

 

You can get some speed bleeders from boxer4racing.com for pretty cheap. You'll be able to do it yourself if you get these installed, but for the first time, have your friend help you. Once you understand how it works, you'll be able to do it yourself with the speed bleeders.

 

What would happen if you were to bleed out the brakes not in the recommended order?

 

You could trap some air in one or more of the lines.

 

I got a bit of air out of my system when I did the flush... mostly from the first, passenger front corner. One tip that I got from a local subaru tech was that after going around to all 4 corners, go back around again and before you wrap up that corner, do a quick open/close on the valve as your buddy is depressing teh pedal. Don't let the pedal hit the floor. That may be common knowledge... donno.

We did my 03 Forester and a 98 Outback Sport (which also got Brembo slotted rotors & EBC Redstuffs) and we used about 1.33 liters of brake fluid to flush & replace incase anyone is wondering how much fluid is used.

 

2x4 under the pedal

 

What makes one brake fluid better than others?

Ya know, maybe that question calls for another thread.:huh:

 

Why do you have to put a 2x4 under the pedal?

 

so brake pedal doesnt go to floor cause in normal braking it nevers hit the floor

 

so brake pedal doesnt go to floor cause in normal braking it nevers hit the floor

Not sure what you mean by this since you are just trying to build up pressure. I looked it up on google and It looks like the master cylinder seals may be at risk. I guess to much pressure build up?

 

Bleeding Brakes



The surface of the master cylinder is only used were the rubber seals contact the cylinder walls during normal use. If the pedal is only pressed to 75% of the way to the floor then the rest of the master cylinder doesn't get used. If water or other junk gets into the cylinder the cylinder will get corroded or rusted over time or may build up junk or a rough rusted surface. If you push the pedal all the way to the floor during bleeding, then the seals will pass the normally used part, and the seals will allow air to leak in past the seals. This can really frustrate a person that does not know what is happining. You can be as careful as possible in filling up the reservoir, but you can let air into your system anyway by pressing the pedal to the floor. Besides the rough corroded portion of the master cylinder will tear up good seals.

That is the reason for the 2X4!!

 

The NorthUrsalia version of this has been around for quite some time:
http://northursalia.com/modifications/brakes/bleeding/bleeding.html
However, he suggests a different order, basically farthest to closest.

 

I have hawk pads,ss lines, and ate fluid, (5k miles ago). I am pretty sure that I have air in the system, b/c the pedal is mushy.

My question is, do I re-bleed with the same brand of fluid, or different colored fluid, to ensure that all the air is out?

My front right rotor is not showing any wear, and is starting to squeel.:shrug:

 

IF you are just going rebleed your brakes ,you use the same colour,if your putting new fliud in again change to other color, yours isn't that old. You may want to check out the right caliper and make sure its not seized, reapply a good hi temp grease to sliders and pivot points, the right line may have most of the air in , follow proper procedure ,make sure to keep master cylinder topped up so you don't get any air in the system.:icon_wink:

 

^^ Thanks for the advice.. An inspection is necessary..