Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner
  • The "Garage" feature is for images of YOUR VEHICLE/S only - no blanks or other unrelated images please, thanks
1,781 - 1,800 of 1,800 Posts
Discussion starter · #1,782 ·
@B14CKL15T3D here in the States, most muffler shop carry the Magnaflow muffler as a in stock replacement part. Those cost less, as the stainless steel is not polished to a mirror finish. I painted the muffler with Rust-Oleum B-B-Q black high temperature paint.

As to where to buy. Do a internet search for "Magnaflow11255 muffler".
The Magnaflow muffler comes in different sizes. The 11255 is 18", which will give you a mellow exhaust. Some have gone with the 14" & found it was much too loud.
As to the tip, the Magnaflow muffler doesn't come with one, so you can add whatever looks good to you.

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
Save
JDM STi red hazard switch + '07 to '04 automatic climate control downgrade!

This is a very simple "plug & play" MOD. It's not what I'd call an inexpensive MOD, but then, what MOD worth doing doesn't cost a few bucks? :icon_eek:

Bobby...

Update - October 15, 2013​
Today was the first time I needed to use the heat & to my surprise, the '03-'04 automatic control... specifically the temperature settings on manual, works much better than the '05-'08 controls! With the '05-'08 controls, it would be either too cold or too hot with no setting in between. Now I actually have several setting to give me the exact amount of heating I want! :cool:


I'd been looking a long time for a JDM STi red hazard switch! I bought this from Ben, @TeamBAMF here on the forum.
Image

Call me crazy, but I've been wanting to do this climate control swap... downgrade, for a long time! I've always thought the '03-'04 automatic climate controls look better than the honking big knobs on the '05-'08 automatic climate controls. Now I can see if this is what I really want... :confused:

I bought this from Joe, @joe r here on the forum.
Image
The '04 automatic climate control I purchased from joe r was in very good condition, but it did have normal wear. I decided to replace a couple of the parts with new.

Image

I always buy my new Subaru factory/OEM parts from Jackie, @SubaruPartsGirl here on the forum. I like to support our forum when I can & Jackie is a forum supporting vendor, my go to parts wiz! Her direct number at Annapolis Subaru is (866) 509-3019. 😉
Image


Here's how the stock hazard switch & '07-'08 automatic climate controls looked.
Image


Here's my new JDM STi red hazard switch & '03-'04 automatic climate controls! :biggrin:
Image

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)
So if I want auto climate control in my 04 X I just have to find one from a newer model and it'll swap?
 
Discussion starter · #1,784 ·
@cammykool quick answer, way too complicated to do, it way more than just swapping out the panel!

On the positive side, the manual climate control works better than the automatic climate controls, in my opinion, I hate the automatic climate controls in my '07 FSXT! I miss the manual climate controls I had in my '03 X, now my son's Forester.

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
Save
Discussion starter · #1,786 ·
The Optima Yellow top replacement battery is "finally" installed!

The 14+ year old original Panasonic battery is still functional, but it was time to install that Optima Yellow top AGM battery. It's been on a battery maintainer in the garage since 2012! Yes 9+ years!
For those wondering if the 9+ year stored battery still works, the answer is yes! The Optima Yellow top battery cranks the engine faster & better than the old conventional battery it replaced!
To be completely honest, we're having the old washing machine hauled off & I figured I'd also have the old battery hauled off at the same time! If I didn't have that old battery hauled off, you know it will be in the garage "forever"! :LOL:

► Update - Drove the Forester today to go "foraging" for groceries today! The starter operation was fast & strong, the engine started easily. The alternator charging voltage was 14.2V.

Bobby...

This is a fairly easy project, other than not wanting to remove the 12V power from the vehicle electronics, specifically the ECM. I'm running COBB custom dyno protune "Realtime" map that would default to the base reflash map if 12V power is lost.

This is how we retain the 12V power when the main battery is removed. We did the modification to make the rear cargo area 12V outlet unswitched, constant power, so we can attach a temporary backup battery here.

Once the old battery was removed, there was some cleaning to do! I used car wash & wax, rinsing with DI filtered water (no water spotting). I used an electric duster blower to dry the area before placing the new battery in position.

To my surprise, when I pulled back the red protective cover on the positive terminal, there was a very small amount of corrosion on the clamp bolt & on the clamp! This was unexpected, as there no corrosion on the negative terminal? I need to remember to peak under that cover once in a while!

The corrosion was less than 1/4", so it was VERY minor, I cleaned it off, neutralized it with battery cleaner spray, followed with a coating of NO-OX-ID "A".

The installation was easy, just tedious, as I'm VERY picky on these kinds of projects! More NO-OX-ID "A" was applied to the clamps & the battery terminal posts.
I should note I don't like those brush battery post cleaners, as they remove metal. I prefer to use a metal polish. In addition, when possible, I replace steel fasteners with stainless steel fasteners!

The Optima Yellow top battery is an AGM battery & requires a higher changing voltage for optimal performance. We installed the "alternator diode modification on both our Forester to increase the alternator changing voltage.

From the Optima Yellow top PDF:
Open Circuit Voltage (Fully charged): 13.1 volts. As a comparison, a standard conventional "wet" battery will read 12.6 volts when fully charged.
Detail on the "alternator diode modification" can be viewed here on this post in Alex's '03 X Members' Journal.

Finally, a "bonus", as in, "lost & found"! While cleaning, I happen to find these! The clip I lost for the engine cover & a grounding star washer I lost when adding addition engine grounding!

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
Save
Discussion starter · #1,787 ·
Installed a custom fabricated negative battery post "sleeve"!

After installing the new Optima Yellow top battery, I've been thinking about the negative battery clamp, which seemed be on the loose side?

I decided the easy fix would be to install a battery post "sleeve" to make the post a bit thicker. I thought about buying a post sleeve, there are lots for sale on Amazon, but they appeared to be thicker than I need.

I don't like to "reinvent the wheel", but in this situation I decided to "roll my own" negative battery post sleeve!

Bobby...

The first problem was what to use for the sleeve material? Being a fabricator, I have lots of "hoarded" parts & the perfect material was some antenna chimney mount strapping I'd save. This material looks like stainless steel, but is strongly attracted to a magnet. My guess, grade 400 stainless steel?

The next problem was the "cone shape" of the battery post. This required some forming... finessing with a pair of small flat nosed pliers & trimming with tin snips. I uses an old battery to get the fitment I wanted on the negative post. Once the fitment was as I wanted it, I lightly sanded the inside & outside of the sleeve before I coated it lightly with NO-OX-ID "A".

It actually took me awhile to get the fitment I wanted & while I was at it, I figured I might as well make a second sleeve for my son's '03 X!

The installation was simple, only requiring the post clamp to be spread apart a touch to fit over the post sleeve. No way one of those thicker commercially sold post sleeves would have worked with the stock cable clamp!

The battery terminal grease is NO-OX-ID "A". It may look overly thick, but once it's been exposed to the engine heat, it will seep into the voids & seal the connection from moisture.

The left battery picture is without the negative post sleeve & the right picture has the sleeve installed on the post. If you look closely, you can see there's more clamp gap when it's tighten on the battery post.

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kevin
Save
Discussion starter · #1,789 ·
► 2021- Christmas night snow storm!

We went to bed last night, it was a rain & snow mix. This is what we woke up to this morning! :eek:

Bobby...

Looking at the WU forecast attached below, which is VERY accurate for our location, this snow is going to be around for awhile! Makes me smile to know I don't have to go out in this, as I'm retired! :D

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
Save
Discussion starter · #1,791 ·
Save
Discussion starter · #1,793 ·
@Dobeedo that is a standard fitting that you can source at the Home Depot or at an auto parts store.

Note that you need to install the mentioned oil galley fitting if you're converting from the block metric BSPT thread to NPT pipe thread.

As to the metal of the "T" fitting. I would stick with brass or stainless steel. You can use plain steel, but it will rust.

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
Save
Discussion starter · #1,795 ·
  • Like
Reactions: Dobeedo
Save
Thanks Bobby for your detailed posts on the Sub install. Just picked up a 2009 XT with a blown motor, swapped in the 2018 STI shortblock and she purrs like a kitten. Plan is to install a Kenwood KSC SW11 this month. Already have an amp under drivers seat, so it should go easy.
 
Replaced the stock exhaust resonator!

I've been pondering this for some time now. I love the sound of the Magnaflow muffler, but I felt it could be a bit louder. Today I decided to do something about it! I went back to my trusted muffler shop, Exhaust Specialties. Martin, the same technician that installed the Magnaflow muffler last year, did the work today. The removal of the stock resonator was discussed last year, but I decided to try the Magnaflow muffler with the stock resonator.

After the resonator was welded in place, Martin pointed out something I didn't know. The rear O2 sensor is placed ahead of the rear CAT. This means the rear O2 sensor monitors the first CAT & nothing monitors the 2nd CAT! If I were doing this again, perhaps I'd skip the aftermarket resonator & just go with a piece of pipe, figuring the 2 CATs would do a pretty good job of toning down the exhaust.

The aftermarket resonator made the exhaust a bit louder & deeper, plus the distinctive Boxer Burble is still there!

Bobby…
These pictures show the stock resonator. As you can see, it's huge!
Image
Image


The upper picture is the stock resonator again. The lower picture shows Martin cutting it off.
Image
Image


The upper picture shows the resonator cutoff. The lower picture shows the aftermarket resonator being positioned.
Image
Image

upper picture shows the new resonator ready to be welded. The lower picture shows Martin welding everything together. I didn't snap a picture of it, but Martin painted all the new metal & welds with high temperature flat black paint when the welding was complete.
Image
Image

Related posts:
The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
Excellent work! 👏👏
Would you recommend this change to someone who has replaced the stock muffler with a performance pipe?
I think I need more sound.
 
Discussion starter · #1,800 ·
A new battery for Bobby's 2007 Forester Sports XT!

Years ago, I purchased 3 Optima Yellow top AGM batteries for our '03 & '07 Forester & our '95 Neon.

After years of working perfectly, all 3 have the same failure, they all started seeping... leaking around the negative terminal post, where it extends out of the case! Rather annoying, as the Optima battery is advertised as a "sealed, leak proof battery"!

Here's what the seeping looked like on the Optima Yellow top AGM battery we removed today! Needless to say, I would not recommend or buy another Optima AGM battery! :mad:

Luckily, the seeping electrolyte didn't do too much damage to the battery post clamp, so I was able to remove the corrosion without damaging the clamp!

This is the new Weize Platinum AGM battery we installed this afternoon!

▼ Below is a comparison of the Optima Yellow top AGM to the Weize Platinum AGM Battery: ▼

Optima Yellow Top AGM battery - $263 on Amazon

  • CCA - 620
  • AH - 48
  • RC - 100
  • Weight: - 36.4 pounds
____

Weize Platinum AGM battery - $160 on Amazon. I got it for $144 on sale with free shipping! :D

  • CCA - 650
  • AH - 55
  • RC - 100
  • Weight: 37.7 pounds
____

As of today, the Optima Yellow top AGM battery has been replaced in my son's '03 X & my '07 FSXT. We have a Weize Platinum AGM battery ready to be installed in the '95 Dodge Neon Sport!

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
  • Like
Reactions: maller01
Save
1,781 - 1,800 of 1,800 Posts
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.