[Tuned200]

Group buy on coin trays and tail light plug thingys.

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

:lol: They're not that spendy! :wink::wink:

The high stop light (3rd brake light) "cap" part number is 84956AA050ND & you need two. they come one to a package. The gray coin tray part number is 66170SA001ND & the clip is 66267SA000.

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[Tuned200]

Thanks bobby.

 

[Duderotomy]

:lol: They're not that spendy! :wink::wink:

The high stop light (3rd brake light) "cap" part number is 84956AA050ND & you need two. they come one to a package. The gray coin tray part number is 66170SA001ND & the clip is 66267SA000.

Bobby...

thanks for the part numbers... now to copy/paste that into a PM to Hodges :lol:

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

When I pulled on mine, it pulled off! :icon_eek: I thought I broke it! :icon_eek:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

Update! I added one last picture to the Audio mute & subwoofer on/off switch MOD (Post #177). The picture shows the 2 MODded switches installed in the dash. I think it turned out pretty good. :wink:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[sirwilliam]

SWEET!:icon_cool:

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

Thanks! I can't wait to get them wired up this coming weekend when the audio MODding starts! ::biggrin:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

'06-'08 Gauge POD v3 - Part 1

The gauge POD clock mounting is designed for '03-'05. The clock was changed in '06 to add the passenger airbag monitor. This changed the size of the clock, so it won't fit in the gauge POD clock frame. On the positive side, the double DIN POD will fit the dash opening on the '03-'08 Forester!

Last updated on 09-06-09! All problems have been resolved! Additional construction pictures added.​

I decided to start this MOD with the audio upgrade, since I'd be in the dash. I ran in all the wiring for the gauge POD, so it's one more item checked off the "to do" list. If you're wondering why I used white split tubing, instead of black. I wanted to get rid of it & it won't be seen in this application.

If you're curious as to what I used for the gauge panel, you can find the answer here.

Bobby...

This is what you get when you buy the factory/OEM gauge POD. The Subaru part number is H0010SA950ML & they run around $65/USD. This is not a plug & play Modification!

Note - this dash top POD has been discontinued, so buying used may be your only option, if you can find one!

The left picture shows how the original storage cubby is remove. The right pictures shows the wiring for the gauge POD.

Here's the problem. You can see there is no way the '06-'08 clock is going to fit in that '03-'05 clock frame!

The pictures below were added 09-04-09!​

The left picture shows where I positioned the clock mounting panel. The right picture shows the clock installed in the panel. I decided to use the original clock panel, since without it, the clock would look unfinished. The plastic is soft, unlike the POD housing, so I used a pair of tin snips for the rough cutting & a pair of small side cutters to finalize the cut. The cuts will not show, so close is good enough.

The left picture shows the gauge panel positioned. The right pictures shows where the 52mm holes need to be cut.

The left picture shows the gauge panel removed from the gauge POD. The right picture shows how I cut the holes. I should note here that filing is required for the final fitting of the gauges. It took over an hour to get the fit just right. You don't want to remove too much metal, or you'll be making a new panel! :frown:

Here's a couple picture of this MOD in the "fitting" (taped together) stage. When I'm to this point, I'm pretty sure the MOD will be successful.

Because of the closeness of the gauges, the VDO gauges will require a "stud kit" to convert the mounting method from the spin on sleeve to the old style metal mounting brackets. The Nordskog fuel pressure gauge comes with mounting studs & "very" long ones!

Here's a front on shot as the gauge POD will sit in the Forester.

Update 09-05-09​

The gauge panel glued on perfectly with Plastic Fusion glue. There is a problem with the clock frame, which is made of a different type plastic (flexible). More than just being flexible, the glue will not adhere to the plastic. I kinda thought this might be an issue. I have a couple possible solutions to investigate. More information as I progress.

Update 09-06-09​

All problems have been resolved!

These pictures show how I spaced (eraser) & how I secured the gauge panels (pencils) while I applied Plastic Fusion glue.

These pictures show my solution to the clock mounting problem. As I wrote earlier, the clock mounting panel is a different plastic & the glue will not adhere to it. The solution was to use a mechanical method to secure the panel to the POD. I have to say this was extremely difficult to do! First I mounted threaded studs to the clock mounting panel. I drilled all the way thru the existing mounting point. The threaded studs had to be filed to match the angle of the panel, since the surface is curved (PIA). After the studs were mounted to the panel, I test fitted the panel to the POD. At this point, everything must be perfect (PIA)! Once I verified everything was correct, I used Plastic Fusion to glue the studs to the POD (PIA). There's no way to glue it entirely at this step, but enough glue must be on the studs so the screw holding it to the panel can be removed (PIA). Once the glue has set, the panel is removed & additional glue is placed around the studs to make the bond to the POD as strong as possible.

I used a larger picture here to show where the clock mounting panel "studs" are located & how they were reinforced with additional Plastic Fusion glue.

The next step is to install the gauges & the wiring. Then the completed gauge POD can be installed in the Forester. Unfortunately, I can't post additional pictures on this post, since I'm at the maximum allows images for a post! I even had to remove most of the "smilies", since they count towards the maximum image count. I'll make a new post for the final pictures.

Related posts.

• '06-'08 Gauge POD v3 - Part 2 (Post #293)
• Scangauge II is installed! (Post #45)
• Boost gauge installed! (Post #156)
• Nordskog fuel pressure sender installation. (Post #639)
• VDO oil pressure sender installation - Part 1 (Post #725)
• VDO oil pressure sender installation - Part 2 (Post #726)
• Oil temperature sender installed in the rear oil gallery! (Post #1197)

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found: here. (post #124)

 

[Arthrogrian19]

Are you still thinking about an intake?? I'm really starting to like APS products, after seeing them go on a '98 Legacy GT STi (which won 1st at WCSS). I'm considering selling the Cobb SRI and going with an APS CAI. If you want the Cobb SRI (which is a top-shelf product, too), let me know. :icon_biggrin:

 

[MudRunner]

Looking great!


RE: the tint

You liking the 20% still? Any issues with visibility when backing up at night? Just curious. The tint is the first thing to happen to the Outback when it gets home (if you think the Foz has upside-down fishbowl syndrome, you ain't seen nothing till you've ridden in the back of an older Outback on a 100 degree day...).

I still need to see what is legal in Kansas since I'll be up there for school. Peaty, you around? lol

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

Are you still thinking about an intake?? I'm really starting to like APS products, after seeing them go on a '98 Legacy GT STi (which won 1st at WCSS). I'm considering selling the Cobb SRI and going with an APS CAI. If you want the Cobb SRI (which is a top-shelf product, too), let me know. :icon_biggrin:

I was just about to go with a COBB, but my research said the stock airbox was good for 300+ hp. I decided to save the moola & I bought a K&N drop in filter. I'm also going to remove the silencer to get that whooshing sound that the '03 X has... I miss that sound! :frown:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

Looking great!


RE: the tint

You liking the 20% still? Any issues with visibility when backing up at night? Just curious. The tint is the first thing to happen to the Outback when it gets home (if you think the Foz has upside-down fishbowl syndrome, you ain't seen nothing till you've ridden in the back of an older Outback on a 100 degree day...).

I still need to see what is legal in Kansas since I'll be up there for school. Peaty, you around? lol

Nope, no problem at all & my night vision isn't all that good. :wink: I'd stay away from 5%, except for the moonroof. 5% is so dark that you can't see a car behind you unless they have their headlights on & that's during the day! :icon_eek: When I had the '03 X tinted, they screwed up & did 5%. It looked great, but you couldn't see thru it at all. I tried it, but finally had it removed & retinted 20%. :smile:

Bobby

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

+12V accessory outlet unswitched (always on) MOD.

While I have the inside of my Forester torn apart to do my audio upgrade, I decided this would be a good time to do the "+12V unswitched (always on) MOD". This will give me unswitched (constant) +12V power in the armrest console & rear cargo area

It's sure nice that Subaru left the wiring the same as it was in our '03 X ('03-'08). The relay type has been changed on the later models, but everything else is the same.

Bobby...

The wiring diagram, pulled relay & the jumper I made (1/4" male to male).

Looks like a mess, but you can see the relay socket with the jumper installed. The relay socket mounts behind & on the left side of that metal bracket on the left (snaps into a the hole on that metal bracket).

Here's an updated & neater wiring diagram.

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found ► here. (post #124)

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]

 

[MudRunner]

Nope, no problem at all & my night vision isn't all that good. :wink: I'd stay away from 5%, except for the moonroof. 5% is so dark that you can't see a car behind you unless they have their headlights on & that's during the day! :icon_eek: When I had the '03 tinted, they screwed up & did 5%. It looked great, but you couldn't see thru it at all. I tried it, but finally had it removed & retinted 20%. :smile:

Bobby

Cool. I'll add that to my notebook. I may get my sister 5% tint on the Fozzie's moon-roof for her birthday. She sure does like it, except for the glare on her sunglasses during the daytime.

Also, I'm loving the little zip-tie tag on the relay jumper. Where do you get those? I always forget which wire went where when I mod something, and it's nice for the people who may end up owning the car later. I think I'll be buried in the Outback though, so maybe it's not such a big deal. :lol:

You da man, Bobby. I need to hire you to fly out and mod my cars... you do such a neat job! Maybe that's why 2.5x_sleeper is now a 'glorious beacon of light'. *wink*

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

... Also, I'm loving the little zip-tie tag on the relay jumper. Where do you get those? I always forget which wire went where when I mod something, and it's nice for the people who may end up owning the car later. I think I'll be buried in the Outback though, so maybe it's not such a big deal. :lol:

Zach,

I'm really not sure where you'd get those tags, I've never bought any. :wink: Where I worked for 35+ years, they always got a surplus with jobs, which were tossed, so being someone that can't throw away good stuff, I saved it. You should see all the "stuff" I saved over the years. :biggrin: The brand name is Panduit, so a google search should find them. :smile:

I've learned to tag everything, especially wiring. This will save you time if you ever have to take things apart. You also know "exactly" what connects to what. No guessing & no errors. I also use those tags on my audio/video system. :wink:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

Audio Upgrade - Part 1

I decided my write up on the audio upgrade needs to be done in "parts", since there are so many separate parts that work together. Note that I'm also planning ahead for the next MOD (gauge POD) by running in additional wires in the harness. The hose for my boost gauge also passes thru the same firewall grommet. :smile:

Part 1 - The wiring from the engine compartment to the cabin.

The upper picture shows the firewall grommet that I'll use. If you have a MT, the grommet I used will be used by the clutch system, but you can use the smaller grommet located above the heater hoses. The lower picture shows the holes drilled thru the grommet. Yes, I said "drilled" This method works well, since it makes a very tight seal. You'll need to use a larger drill bit than the cable passing thru. Run the bit at high speed to cut/melt thru the rubber. Don't make the hole too big, or the waterproof seal will be lost.​

The upper picture shows the boost gauge hose & wiring harness passed thru the grommet. The lower picture shows the grommet ready to be reinstalled in the hole. I should note here that the grommet is a PITA to reinstall, but keep working it & it will go back in.​

The upper picture shows where I decided the wiring harness will be located in the engine compartment. I ran the tubing with the wires down towards the bottom of the battery, then looped it back up. The final position will have the tubing pointed slightly downward to prevent water from entering the tubing. The lower picture shows the wiring passed thru to the cabin. I will have several spare wires, which will be secured up under the dash until they're needed.​

Part 2 will show the subwoofer unswitched +12V fused connection to the battery. This will use one of the wires in the above wiring harness. :smile:​

Related posts.

• Audio upgrade - Part 2 (Post #263)
• Audio upgrade - Part 3 (Post #267)
• Audio Upgrade - Part 4 (Post #512)
• Kenwood KSC-SW10 subwoofer remote LED MOD. (post #88)
• Audio mute & subwoofer on/off switch MOD. (Post #177)

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[Duderotomy]

I wish I had this sort of free time...

<--- realises he's got another 33 years before he's eligible for retirement... :frown:

 

[2.5x_sleeper]

Not to worry, your time working goes by very quickly. I was surprised when my time came. :icon_eek:

Once I'm done catching up on all those "to do" projects, I may have to find some part time work that I really want to do... :wink:

Bobby...

The Table of Contents for my Member Journal can be found :icon_arrow: here. (post #124)

 

[Tuned200]

As usual, nice work bobby.