Pass. Go elsewhere

 

Even most dealers only charge $300-$400. Because of their location a spark plug job on a Subaru is quite time consuming. With labor rates these days (often $120/hr+) it adds up fast, but not $900.

 

labor rates these days (often $120/hr+)

$200/hr here in suburban Atlanta.

People’s eyes would water if they knew the hourly rate I charge commercial customers for IT design & implementation.

 

They might be too busy to deal with it, unless you make it worth their while.

Some people believe you have to pull the engine to replace the plugs.

 

Has to be jacked to reach plugs, not pulled.

 

When I see prices such as that, I generally feel like it’s a way of gently encouraging me to find somewhere else to get work done.

 

$900? No way thats a lot more than plugs should cost to have done, even on a boxer engine. I can do mine myself in less than an hour.

 

My local Subaru dealer didn't charge me that to do the plugs on my Outback 3.6R. And that's two extra plugs, all six of which are far more difficult than any Forester.

 

The shop deserves a pass for refusing to explain, also.

 

Run don’t walk, I had mine done at a small indie shop in a small town in West Texas for 100 dollars labor. I supplied the plugs and dielectric grease, but still would never pay $900 for that job.

 

Queries to the shop on why this is remain unanswered.

I wouldn't ask why.

I'd ask, "Will you do it for $350?"

 

1. Questions have gone unanswered? How? You let a voicemail Andy hey haven’t yet called you back? Reasonable for a small shop, or they may be avoiding.

2. As @FelineFreddie and @donkpow suggested, there is a possibility that is the “go find another shop price” (more commonly known by something the forum rules don’t allow me to post). Unreasonably high prices are known to encourage you to final another shop, for any number of reasons, and if you elect to have to work done at that price they really want it to be worth it for them.

Helpful thread:

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2021-dealer-quote-for-service-spark-plugs-cvt-drain-fill-front-and-rear-differential-service%E2%80%A6-wow.853456/

 

Is your "local shop" just some average service center or a dealership?

If they charge that high and refuse to answer questions about it, including their labor rate, shop will most likely be closing soon anyway. Hopefully.

How many spark plugs they think you got anyway? 🤣

Use your phone, call around to other shops and ask for quote.

 

<snip>
..seems crazy one would need to remove engine mounting to complete this task... 🤪

The job is much easier if you lift the engine.

 

It's also easier when somebody else does it.

 

It's really easy when it's somebody else who works on Subies all day every day.

Down at Joe Bob's House of Auto Repair and Wedding Rentals not only will they pull the engine for plugs, they'll also tell you your head gaskets need replacement when your car has an FA/FB engine.

 

It's really easy when it's somebody else who works on Subies all day every day.

Down at Joe Bob's House of Auto Repair and Wedding Rentals not only will they pull the engine for plugs, they'll also tell you your head gaskets need replacement when your car has an FA/FB engine.

Or it's time to replace the timing belt.

 

Plugs alone at MSRP from Subaru are almost $156 for four. Some aftermarket shops will mark up parts as well. Labor time and rate probably vary, but if they're unfamiliar with the job they might give themselves a little extra to complete it.

 

I did mine myself, and I’m not super smart when it comes to cars. Still only took me like 3-4 hours.

 

I've heard of people lifting the engine. You don't need to do that. I have a 2015 XT and I did mine in under 2 hrs almost three years ago, you just need a slim ratchet to get the driver side ignition coil bolts out and make sure you have a magnetic spark plug socket. I can probably get it to under 1.5 hrs this time.

 

For $900 a pop, I'll change the plugs on a Subie any time. Book two a day (leaves time for goof off and long lunch), that's $9,000 a week or $450,000 a year, not even working Saturdays. Where do I sign up? Plugs are extra of course, you can buy them off eBay, genuine NGK of the correct number for about $50 for the set of four.

This is not a rocket science job. You do need some short 3/8" drive extensions and universal joints, and a little patience because some of the access is limited (i.e. sucks) and you can only turn some of the plugs 1/8 of a turn at a time, but there ain't no way in Hades this job is worth $900.

You'll also need some anti-seize compound for the plug threads (use SPARINGLY) and some dielectric grease to make the plug caps go back on more easily.

Some people say to jack up the engine some to make access easier. I'm not a fan of that because it puts a strain on the motor mounts which are supposed to be in compression, not in tension, and the job is entirely possible without taking that shortcut. (Under their theory, you could also cut off the front fenders and front frame members with a torch to make access easier and then put them back with pop rivets and Bondo. Use eye protection . . . )

Best Regards,
Mike/Florida

 

Is it easier on a lift?

 

I don't think so. I've done plugs many times on the H4 and H6. I've always done it from the top. Some motors are harder than others but typically it's easier when you remove the battery and airbox. Although I've done a number without removing the battery. The bugger plug tends to be #4 or the one closest to the driver (LHD) there isn't a lot of room between the fender and motor.

 

Plugs are extra of course, you can buy them off eBay, genuine NGK of the correct number for about $50 for the set of four.

Very good way to get fake/knock off plugs and have an engine failure down the line. Only spark plugs from reputable sources who can verify their supply chain...

You'll also need some anti-seize compound for the plug threads (use SPARINGLY)

By sparingly, you mean none. No manufacturers call for anti-seize application on any spark plugs as the plugs are engineered with a coating on the threads already. This is not a carbureted cast iron big block Ford engine.

Is it easier on a lift?

@damonmille A lift isn't necessary as it's all in engine bay work.

 

Agree with @j3rf. I would not be putting anti-seize on plugs. Also dielectric grease isn’t really needed either. I have done a fair amount of plugs in my life and never used it on them.

 

Agree, dielectric grease isn't NEEDED but it does make reassembly a bit easier. As to anti-seize, I've seen too many engines where the steel spark plug body has corroded to the aluminum cylinder head and removing the plug takes the threads out with it. That's an expensive repair and often means engine-out, depending on the vehicle.

I hadn't heard about any special coating on plugs, but I do know that Bosch was boasting about rolled threads on their spark plugs instead of cut threads (there are no sharp edges on rolled threads) and that was alleged to make R&R easier. I sold thousands of Bosch (and NGK) plugs when I was in the motorcycle business. Back then, there was no eBay/Temu/Alibaba so fake parts weren't a problem.

Traceability isn't really a problem if you buy from reputable sources, I buy some MB parts from Pelican, and I have confidence that they are genuine. I have seen some "MB parts" on Temu, but no thanks, I'll pass. I've also seen an authorized Yamaha dealer selling cheap aftermarket parts as OEM - that one is out of business. Caveat Emptor. If you buy from Vinnie and Bruno's Cheap Auto Parts, well, you probably won't even get what you paid for.

I use a tiny dab of anti-seize on spark plugs, just a touch. You have to be careful not to get it on the electrodes or the insulator because it is conductive. Necessary? Maybe, maybe not. Does it give me a comfort factor? You bet.

I also use anti-seize on exhaust components. Back when dinosaurs roamed the earth, I had a K-car that went through the rear muffler exactly once a year. I'd put anti-seize on it when I installed it and 11 months later, I'd go past the FLAPS (whose parts had a lifetime warranty) and tell them I needed a replacement, this one is rusted out (and it usually was).

With a half inch open end wrench, I could change the rear muffler right in the parking lot in ten minutes, then go in, wash my hands, and say thank you.

(And no, a lift isn't needed to do plugs on a Subaru. I'll need a different excuse to buy one.)

Best Regards,
Mike/Florida

 

Where does this “has to be jacked” mentality come from? Just use the right tools (they’re not exotic) and follow the procedure from Subaru. The exercise is a little fiddly if it’s your first time with this car, but I never once thought, “ gee maybe if I jacked it, or used a big hammer, or maybe a torch”. It just isn’t needed.

 

I believe you can find Subaru service manuals that indicate lifting the engine about an inch is part of the spark plug replacement procedure.

I find it interesting that everyone talks about how quickly they can change the plugs and that $900 is ridiculous. Based on flat rate time at $200 and hour, $900 is not out of line.

Welcome to 2025.

 

I believe you can find Subaru service manuals that indicate lifting the engine about an inch is part of the spark plug replacement procedure.

You peaked my curiosity, so I looked. Lifting the engine to remove spark plugs isn't part of any SOA Forester manual going back to 2008 SH generation. Didn't see it in a 2006 manual either. Maybe some of the early STIs required it?

Anyway, I responded because of a blanket assertion that lifting the engine is required. It isn't and saying it is makes the job sound more complicated than it really is. If a person's hands and arms are too big to fit the tight workspace, then sure, maybe they need to get creative.

 

Do it yourself. I feel pretty you can find a DIY YouTube video on the procedure.

 

Since I recently changed the plugs on my 2019 Forester, I will make a few comments. The driver's side plugs are the most frustrating to deal with, in my opinion. Removing the metal bracket that holds the wad of electric wires is, I found, daunting. Having the right tools is essential. If you don't have a couple 10mm, 1/4 inch drive sockets, get them! Also, the correct size plug socket will be nice. My next plug change will go much easier snd more quickly, I'm sure.
I have never paid someone to change spark plugs on any of my cars and that includes multiple Porsche 911's, BMW's, Volvos, minivans. VW New Beetles, etc. I've owned a few.