Park with stems at 12o'clock. Penetrating oil.

 

Thank you. How to get on the inside where its stuck? Figured spraying the front wont get it to where it needs to be.

 

Had this problem after fitting alloy caps. Had to saw them across the top.

 

Mine point inward a little. So figured at 12 oclock they would point downward a little.

 

+1. Park with the stem pointing down, a good shot of penetrating oil and let them sit for a bit to allow the oil to do it's job.

 

carefully dremel works good. depends on how stuck they are. with rubber valve stems i just bent them down abit and let the penetrant soak in.
maybe do it a couple times then try with plyers
if that isnt sufficient...
very carefully score across the top and side with a dremel. Go real slow.. use screwdriver should crack off.

 

Thanks all, tried wd40 with no luck. They are stuck good.
Will I need tpms as well if I cave and take it to a tire place?

 

Will I need tpms as well

No, if the valve stems get damaged, you'll only need a TPMS rebuild kit, which is mostly a new valve stem that attaches to the TPMS sensor. those should be well under $10 each.

Of course you'll have to pay for having at minimum the tire bead broken to get access to the TPMS, if not the tire totally removed, depending on whether the tire can be pushed in enough.

A smart tire guy will mark the tire to the rim, so it can be installed in the same position, so you don't have to pay for balancing. Unless they needed rebalanced anyways.

 

The regular WD-40 is not penetrating oil.

 

It's mostly kerosene

 

Putting a tiny slice with a Dremel/cutoff wheel should relieve enough tension to get them off. Maybe two cuts. One on opposite sides. Not too deep. Wear safety glasses.

 

My son just had this problem, he tried penetrating oil, double plyers ext. short of ruining the stems and I lent him my Dremel tool with the diamond metal wheel. Told him to make a shallow cut or two like you said and use a thin screw driver to pry it open and that worked, just don't go too deep into the thread but a slim cut into the threads wouldn't matter. Never use metal valve caps that are a dissimilar metal they will corrode.

 

Try a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Unless you absolutely need to take them off immediately to add air, apply it several times over a few days to really let it work its way into the threads.

 

Thanks all! Tried the pb blaster just now. Maybe it needs to seep in overnight? Gonna try the dermal tomorrow. Hopefully don't leave them flat and need a tow 😂

 

Fortunately, most modern TPMS modules (including these Schrader brand units) have replaceable Schrader valve stems. So if you ruin them, it will cost you around $7 plus labor to replace.

As others have said, a little Dremel tool work with a cut-off disk will enable you to pry them loose. You will be working way above the valve core, so there's almost no chance that you will compromise things too greatly. But when you are done, rotate each to the point where they point downwards and blow out any debris as that will find it's way to the core seal and create leaks next time you attempt to add air.

 

Just to add to what I posted about using the Dremel, it might help to first cut off the tip/end of the cap first.

 

Thanks all, tried all the suggestions, could not get them off. Brought to Town Fair and they fixed for $26. Appreciate all the help.

 

Great to hear, but of course have to ask, how did they do it?

 

There's a whole 'nother discussion on the lug nut/stud isse. There is a TSB on the lug nuts, they are rusting on the inside, creating possible issues. Even the ones on my 2012 were already rusted when I did the tire rotation at ~5 months old.

I replaced them with lifetime warranty lug nuts for less $ than the new Subaru nuts.

(All Years) - Problem with wheel studs? (merged thread)

I've never had so much trouble with wheel studs as I am having with my Forester! Removing the wheel, I break free the nut, but after a couple of turns, the nut freezes up and I end up breaking off the stud. This has happened to four studs on both rear wheels. Fortunately, I was at home at the...

www.subaruforester.org

 

I had the corrosion issue as well, but solved it after I removed the original caps with wd 40 and a pair of pliers by buying a set of plastic caps at a local parts store. They were about $ 1.50 for all 4 and will never corrode. Do they look perfect? I don't know and really don't care, but they work

 

I read a while ago, that there are allegedly 4 ingredients in WD-40, and none of them are toxic. Sorry I have no reference.

I doubt you have one proving it's kerosene either.

I have gotten it in my eyes before working under the car, and it has never bothered me. Kerosene would definitely burn a little.