it's possible your alternator died, and you're only seeing a "surface charge" of 12V.

Have you tried putting the Volt-meter on the battery and watching the Voltage when you try to start it?

(A surface charge is a term I've heard mechanics use. It's basically a "ghost" voltage, but when the battery is put under a load, it just drops to 0. It may be enough to make things "look" like they are working... But when it comes down to it, there's just not enough "juice")

 

Thanks for the reply.Battery tests out OK. Under load (headligths on) will drop to low 12 volts. Tried starting with a charger/starter booster, no start. Can't start the engine to see if alternator is putting out correct voltage. What would be the odds that the starter would quit at the same time as the alternator? Why would the starter selenoid be 'live' even after the key is removed???

 

Did you check the timing belt? I know you said it was changed, but did you verify that it's still in place?
(I'm wondering if the timing belt went, and took out your crank sensor... (don't know if "no crank signal" would cause it to not crank))

When I replaced head gaskets on a 2009, I thought I had everything together, but it wouldn't crank. As it turned out, I had failed to tighten one ground on the intake. It caused it to not crank. (the temp warning light was flashing red/blue/red/blue etc)
Could you have a ground that failed on you?

Since you've already tried various things, I'm just throwing things out there!

 

Thanks for the reply. Didn't recheck the timing belt.. will give that a look. I did think of bad ground and added a booster cable from engine to battery.... did not change anything. At this point I'm more curious to figure out what's wrong from a learning perspective.

 

There are 2 connectors on the starter. The one is bolted on and is a heavy gauge wire. It goes straight to the battery and SHOULD have 12V on it always. The second connector is a little black connector. It should only have 12V on it when you put the key in the "Start" position. (you "could" try putting a screwdriver across the 2 connections. The starter SHOULD kick in/engage)

Try adding the extra ground to the intake...

 

Starter issues show up as a "click". And nothing happens. The original starter on my 2001 lasted probably about 120,000-150,000 miles. The replacement starter never made 100,000 miles. I pulled the 2nd starter apart and replaced the brushes.

A test you can do is tap the starter and try again, the tapping of the starter with a long screw driver may jiggle the brushes so they contact the starter motor itself. That's how I figured out my starter needed new brushes.

 

Starter issues show up as a "click". And nothing happens. The original starter on my 2001 lasted probably about 120,000-150,000 miles. The replacement starter never made 100,000 miles. I pulled the 2nd starter apart and replaced the brushes.

A test you can do is tap the starter and try again, the tapping of the starter with a long screw driver may jiggle the brushes so they contact the starter motor itself. That's how I figured out my starter needed new brushes.

I know the starter is bad and tested on the workbench. But as Donkpow says I'm trying to pinpoint the origin of the problem. I believe the Starter is a collateral damage subsequent to the event

 

It died on the road and then no crank. So why did it die? That's where I would be focusing my attention. Did it just plain quit while driving? Like somebody "cut the wire"?

 

Yep... I hear a clicking noise like a relay chattering (or valves tapping...). I could not pinpoint the location since my radio was playing loud but it seemed to come from the passenger side. It lasted a few seconds and I decided to pull over to investigate and as I let go of the gas, the engine died. After that, no start, no crank, had my OBD2 reader...no codes. Had it towed to the farm. Tested the starting circuit, to my surprise the solenoid wire stayed 'live' even after the key was removed and until the battery + was briefly removed. I did this a couple of times to make sure that I had not dream't. With the key at ON, there's a chattering noise around the MAF and the a noise around the injector pump.

 

One thing you could verify: Is there 12V on the starter wire coming out of the ignition? If not, then something has gone wrong in the security module. (If I recall correctly that is in the dash on the passenger side...)

Does the security light come on on the cluster?

 

One thing you could verify: Is there 12V on the starter wire coming out of the ignition? If not, then something has gone wrong in the security module. (If I recall correctly that is in the dash on the passenger side...)

Does the security light come on on the cluster?

Didn't notice the security light, will look at it and check the starter at ignition. Technically, the ignition at the key should be OK since there is 12 volts at the solenoid connector when the Start is done...However it will have to wait for few days....my mom passed away this evening......

 

Just looking through my wiring diagrams for the start circuit, starter relay coil is fed from the the switch to the ECM and relay contact from the switch to the starter solenoid. ECM is located under the floor mat on the passenger side. The relay block for this in my car is on the driver's side, according to the manual.

 

If you also look at the diagram, there's a relay labeled main relay which seems to play with the MAF and other electronic controls. It's suppose to be situated on the passenger side. But I've not seen it (glove box removed). a number of connectors only.

 

@donkpow So, it's the ECM that handles whether a proper "chipped key" is detected? Interesting...

 

I am sorry for your loss.

@GuusV , we posted at the same time. I was thinking about something else and not trying to draw a conclusion at that time. I don't think a chipped key would make a difference in this part of the circuitry.

 

My condolences!

I'm a bit confused. OP is saying that the starter-signal wire is reading 12V all the time. Even when there is no key in the ignition. I don't have the wiring diagram. But I am assuming that the process of determining if the starter should receive a 12V signal involves the key cylinder AND whatever module has validated that a proper chipped key is present.
If the 12V signal to the starter comes straight from the ECU, and the signal from key-cylinder goes straight to the ECU, then the ECU must be responsible for validating the "chip present" situation. If there is another module involved in that process, That module could be stuck in "give the start signal" mode. If there is no other module and the ECU does all the work, It sounds like the ECU might be at fault.

Again, I don't have the wiring diagram for the ECU connectors, but I would check the "starter signal out" wire voltage. It should only read 12V when the key is turned to "Start". I'm going to assume there's a relay between the ECU and the starter. That relay may be "stuck"...
I just had a look in our 2009 and don't see a relay labeled "starter". That doesn't mean that there isn't one. There are several relays right along the fuse-block by your left knee. (But I do see a 7.5A fuse...). You could start pulling relays and see when the 12V signal on the starter goes away...

Sorry about the rambling... I hope at least some of my thought processes make sense...

 

My condolences as well.
With regards to your issue, I would have a careful look at the connector for the crankshaft sensor and would consider replacing the sensor itself.

 

I don't know what you are chasing but here are a couple of chapters related to your comments.

The always on condition of the starter solenoid is probably related to an electrical system fault that also influences something like ignition on or fuel pump on. Engine off condition while driving will be key to the troubleshooting the system. Find the common source and you will likely find the fault. That is my thinking.