[grgry]

it's possible your alternator died, and you're only seeing a "surface charge" of 12V.

Have you tried putting the Volt-meter on the battery and watching the Voltage when you try to start it?

(A surface charge is a term I've heard mechanics use. It's basically a "ghost" voltage, but when the battery is put under a load, it just drops to 0. It may be enough to make things "look" like they are working... But when it comes down to it, there's just not enough "juice")

Thanks for the reply.Battery tests out OK. Under load (headligths on) will drop to low 12 volts. Tried starting with a charger/starter booster, no start. Can't start the engine to see if alternator is putting out correct voltage. What would be the odds that the starter would quit at the same time as the alternator? Why would the starter selenoid be 'live' even after the key is removed???

 

[grgry]

Did you check the timing belt? I know you said it was changed, but did you verify that it's still in place?
(I'm wondering if the timing belt went, and took out your crank sensor... (don't know if "no crank signal" would cause it to not crank))

When I replaced head gaskets on a 2009, I thought I had everything together, but it wouldn't crank. As it turned out, I had failed to tighten one ground on the intake. It caused it to not crank. (the temp warning light was flashing red/blue/red/blue etc)
Could you have a ground that failed on you?

Since you've already tried various things, I'm just throwing things out there!

Thanks for the reply. Didn't recheck the timing belt.. will give that a look. I did think of bad ground and added a booster cable from engine to battery.... did not change anything. At this point I'm more curious to figure out what's wrong from a learning perspective.

 

[grgry]

It died on the road and then no crank. So why did it die? That's where I would be focusing my attention. Did it just plain quit while driving? Like somebody "cut the wire"?

Yep... I hear a clicking noise like a relay chattering (or valves tapping...). I could not pinpoint the location since my radio was playing loud but it seemed to come from the passenger side. It lasted a few seconds and I decided to pull over to investigate and as I let go of the gas, the engine died. After that, no start, no crank, had my OBD2 reader...no codes. Had it towed to the farm. Tested the starting circuit, to my surprise the solenoid wire stayed 'live' even after the key was removed and until the battery + was briefly removed. I did this a couple of times to make sure that I had not dream't. With the key at ON, there's a chattering noise around the MAF and the a noise around the injector pump.

 

[grgry]

Starter issues show up as a "click". And nothing happens. The original starter on my 2001 lasted probably about 120,000-150,000 miles. The replacement starter never made 100,000 miles. I pulled the 2nd starter apart and replaced the brushes.

A test you can do is tap the starter and try again, the tapping of the starter with a long screw driver may jiggle the brushes so they contact the starter motor itself. That's how I figured out my starter needed new brushes.

I know the starter is bad and tested on the workbench. But as Donkpow says I'm trying to pinpoint the origin of the problem. I believe the Starter is a collateral damage subsequent to the event

 

[grgry]

Just looking through my wiring diagrams for the start circuit, starter relay coil is fed from the the switch to the ECM and relay contact from the switch to the starter solenoid. ECM is located under the floor mat on the passenger side. The relay block for this in my car is on the driver's side, according to the manual.

If you also look at the diagram, there's a relay labeled main relay which seems to play with the MAF and other electronic controls. It's suppose to be situated on the passenger side. But I've not seen it (glove box removed). a number of connectors only.

 

[grgry]

One thing you could verify: Is there 12V on the starter wire coming out of the ignition? If not, then something has gone wrong in the security module. (If I recall correctly that is in the dash on the passenger side...)

Does the security light come on on the cluster?

Didn't notice the security light, will look at it and check the starter at ignition. Technically, the ignition at the key should be OK since there is 12 volts at the solenoid connector when the Start is done...However it will have to wait for few days....my mom passed away this evening......