Nothing to do with the hacking, but i've always been a big fan of 8s, I think they hit harder and they don't hold the note (read rumble) like bigger subs do. I guess if you listen to a lot of hiphop or rap 10's sound better but i think 8s are better for rock. just my $.02

 

ED subs rock, go for it and post pics :icon_eek:

 

I guess I need to go to a stereo shop and listen to an 8"

 

From experience, the best way to install a 10" without hacking into the carpet is to go with a really low profile 10" so you don't have to add a spacer. Also, make sure you mount it low enough to where the top of the sub stays clear away from the window trim piece. If you take those precautions, I think you won't have to do too much hacking like I did.

Another thing, I wouldn't worry about going high-end with the sub driver. This is because measuring the volume in the enclosure seems to be a process of eyeballing and guesstimation.. So unless you figure out a way to get the precise volume you want, I would not spend an adsorbent amount of money on a sub.

 

ironfinger, I saw your install (which inspired me to do something similar). The ed sub is only $55 so I am not breaking the bank. However, if an 8" has decent punch and makes for an easier install, I would be willing to go that route too.

 

I run an old skool 8" Kicker Free Air subwoofer in the rear cargo. It thumps like a champ. I have my amp at minimum on the stock 6-disc head unit. The key to good sound is the sound deadening if you ask me. You can get a 10" in that area but you will most likely need a shallow mount sub or spacers. With the Forester cabin design a 8" is sufficient IMO. This is coming from running two "10 subs in a sedan.

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=3540

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid210/p31b1915c967ee7c57ad8501bf47fec6a/edc37680.jpg

 

lol, looks like it is 2 for 8" and 2 for 10".

 

What are some good 8" subs to be on the look for?

 

ID8 (made by Image Dynamics) would be a nice choice. I looked into putting a sub back there but couldn't find any decent subs (IMO) in an 8" and with a really low mounting depth. I'm still pondering doing this as well, using some expanding foam, rammatt and a few other tricks up my sleeve to seal off the compartment, but you really have very little room to work with unfortunately. Another good place to put one is inside the spare tire.

-Steve

EDIT: here are a few more:

Shallow 8 = http://www.phase-linear.de/produkte.asp?p=subwoofer&view=detail&grp=6&ser=44&nr=1360108&lang=EN

Or:
- JL 8w3v2
-CDT HD SQ8 (I have the 6.5" components of this line and they sound GREAT)
-Arc Audio 8D2 or 8D4 would be a nice choice too.

 

ID8 is no longer sold (at least new).

 

If I remember correctly the Arc audio 8 and the ID 8 are for all practical purposes the exact same driver with different stickers on it.

-Steve

 

+1 for Arc Audio. An 8D2 on ~100w would be plenty for the Forester and they do sound very good in small spaces. Make sure you seal it up good with foam and two layers of glass in the sub cavity. It will be worth it.

 

I recommend a 10" if you can, but if you do go with an 8" you may be able to use the existing metal bracket/pan that the stock speaker is using. You just have to bend the opening wider with a wrench and level the pan with sound deadening or 1/4"-1/2" spacer sheet made of mdf or masonite.

 

The key to adding a sub to the rear OEM loction is to find a model that is:
shallow depth (under 5")
high efficiency (sensitivity of 85 db+)
low Xmax (excursion of under 10mm or less is ideal)

You can use a less efficent sub, but they usually require more power and a larger excursion to produce sound. This may cause the cone to hit the trim panel.

Like Tre36 said, sound deadening is key to the install. It will do more for the sound than anything. Also if 1 8" is not enough, you can always add one to the other side of the hatch. 2 or more will also work in the lift gate with some creativity. Lots of unused space there.

 

anyone have any pics of a rear hatch install? seems like there might be room for an amp also, maybe even some crazy plexi windows:rock:

 

I agree, the biggest issue that I saw for fitting a sub in that OEM location is (like the doors) going to be the mounting depth. Too deep and you hit the outer sheet metal with the magnet, or you hit the trim panel. I really think an Arc 8d2 or 8d4 depending on what your amp is setup for would be a really nice little extra bump.

-Steve

 

I was thinking this amp with a 2 ohm sub

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZEZikTV3Jax/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?search=alpine+amp&i=500MRPM450

 

The ed sq-10 sound perfect with these specs:

Qts: .29
Qes: .32
Qms: 2.7
Fs: 25.5 Hz
Re: 3.5
Vas: 46.7 L
Mms: 110 g
Bl: 15.1 T*m
SPL: 86.7 dB
Sd: 350 cm^2
Xmax: 9.3 mm
Voice Coil: 62.5 mm

Magnet Width: 2.700"
Cutout Diameter: 9.125"
Mounting Depth: 3.000"
Weight: 8 lb
Total Height: 3.400"
Displacement: .03 ft^3
Outside Diameter: 10.250"

 

Here are the specs for the arc audio 8d4:

Impedance : 2 or 8 ohm
Resonant frequency : 24.7Hz
Sensitivity : 85.6 db
RMS power handling : 150 watts
Electrical "Q" : .367
Mechanical "Q" : 3.572
Total "Q" : .332
Equivalent volume: 1.55
One way linear: 15 mm
Mounting depth : 4.75"
Optimum sealed enclosure : .35 cuft
Ported enclosure : .6 cuft

 

I had a pair of 6x9's in the rear gate of my 98 Forester, but I don't recall If I ever took pix of it. We use to hang out at the park a lot, so I'd just open the hatch and crank tunes.

The lower half of the hatch door is just a big hollow shell. The access holes are big enough to fit an amp into, but running the wires might be a little tricky.

 

Well, I am preparing for whatever sub I can find (none local to test, so its off to parts express tomorrow to see if they have any to demo). I scrapped the idea of getting another amp...so, I am running the Alpine F250 in tri-mode. Should be 40-50 watts to the front (the rears are running straight off the headunit) and 100 watts to run the sub (4 ohm only). I already wired it up and almost blew out the stock 6 x 9...had the turn the gains all the way down and use the crossover at 100hz.

 

The tail gate is an interesting idea. :icon_idea:

 

A 10" sub with 9.3mm xmax is probably not going to be any louder that that Arc 8

The Arc is most likely to have better SQ but I have to say most likely because I know exactly how the 10's sound and they are very good indeed. I have not heard the eD 10 but every other shallow mount 10 I have tested(many) just could not get loud enough or had good enough SQ for my tastes.

Arc subs and IDQ subs are the closest match, IDQ has a slight edge in SQ, Arc a slight edge in SPL.

The ID8(not the same as the IDQ8) is still a dang fine sub with really great SQ for its cost, I know since I have used them and have a couple new ones on the shelf.

I chose to use the Arc 10 in our underseat sub systems for their high SQL potential in a small enclosure but the IDQ would be a sweet second choice. I looked at many many subs before going with this one (we are a licensed OEM manf for using Arc and ID subs)

We do not build many underseat units now due to not having much time as our regular business is growing so rapidly but I am going to use one in our FXT very soon. BUT, if you have rear seat passengers on long trips it is a bit uncomfortable to not be able to put slide your feet under the front passenger seat. I am going to mod ours to deal with that and give up a bit of low end extention but after calculating the numbers I decided I could live with it more than dropping down to an 8" sub which would still give up extension and SPL over a 10 in this particular situation.

As for the comments on which size is best for what type of music, it is not so cut and dried, far to many variables to consider, small subs can go very low but generally have to have very long excursions and used in mulitples. Large subs can be very and punchy if utilized correctly. The real problem is very few shops and individuals have ever really heard a properly setup bass system and thus really do not have a proper understanding of what real bass can and should be, sad really

Rick

 

Rick, you got a pm.

 

I have seen a few recommendations for the Dayton Subwoofers here: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=295-545&raid=46&rak=295-545

and they even have a 10" with a mounting depth lower than 5". however they are rated for 8 ohm, and I surmise from home electronics projects that that could pose a problem for car audio.

Any thoughts on this?

 

An 8 Ohm driver shouldn't really present a problem to a good 4 ohm amp- you will lose a little volume (which can be compensated for with gain up to a point), but no over heating or over-current issues like if you run too low an impedance.

You could always run two 8 Ohm' ers in series...:icon_wink:

 

Oh, and it seems to get forgotten that two 8"-ers equal the surface area (more or less) of a single 12".
You can get audiophile-grade accurate, kidney shaking bass from a pair of quality eights...my old school Solobarics come to mind.