Dream't a solution

Slept on it last night and came to my usual self conclusion. Perhaps this is why I never use forums.
Guess I'll install an interrupter switch when I return. With the two wires disconnected via a switch, it will block whatever signal is coming in on the two wires from the Whelen device causing the relay not to function correctly.
Then I could return to using my hazards and flashers for public safety, and also pass my vehicle inspection.
But I would like to diag the problem further and understand the electrical properties. If anyone has any input, or not.
When metered, I did not see any energy coming over the 2 wires from the Whelen spliced into the hazard/turn signal wires.
Why would two wires with no energy spliced into 2 wires with no energy cause them not to function together?
Strange.
It's so fun talking to myself!:grin2:

 

Usually they use a switched Ground type setup. Whats the purpose of the flasher?

 

I tried using the ground side headlight wire from the Whelen module first, connecting it to the hazard light wires. But the hazard lights did not flash, so I moved it to the positive switch side wire from the Whelen device, and everything worked. Until I reattached the flasher relay. Then when I pushed the hazard switch button or used the turn signal switch , the lights would only flash once.

I am trying to flash the hazard/turn signal lights using the Whelen flasher module. The module is used to flash headlights, but it also be used to flash any type of light. I therefore jumpered the wires into the hazard lights so they would flash.

Yeah, I am also confused by your post and what you are trying to flash.

I am trying to flash the hazard/turn signal lights using the Whelen flasher module. The module is used to flash headlights, but it also be used to flash any type of light. I therefore jumpered the wires into the hazard lights so they would flash.

Without captions describing what the photos are showing, they are pretty useless.

I did not realize I setting up a training session for 3 year olds. I joined this forum because I thought everyone here was a Forester owner, and new them fairly well. If no one knows what a Forester headlight circuit or wire looks like, then perhaps they should refrain from commenting on this post. The photos are just pictures of what I wired together. An experienced person could see the rear of the headlight wire spliced into the module. Also, the wire under the dashboard is clearly for the hazard relay. Those wires are spliced into as well. But someone with no practical electrical experience with the Forest wouldn't know this. So I ask that people with no real knowledge say my photos are "useless". If I showed an experienced tech, he or she would know exactly what they're looking at.

 

Yeah, I am also confused by your post and what you are trying to flash.

 

Sounds like you've connected the high-beam and turn circuits together; the flasher unit won't like that.

Wigwags are normally just on the headlights, no? Idealy you'd want a couple of changeover relays to isolate and power the L&R turns if you want them linked...

 

WigWigs can be used to flash just about any light, for the exception of an LED. As I mentioned, I connected one wire from each side, left and right, into the one wire each, left and right of the circuit for the hazard lights, and they worked perfectly.
The Whelen flasher flashes the headlights and hazard/turn signal lights all at the same time.
But when I reattach the hazard/turn signal relay and press the hazard button switch inside the car, the lights only flash once.
But I can still turn on the Whelen Wig Wag module and all the lights will flash together.
When the headlights receive their 12v signal, then so does the hazard/turn signals and they all flash together. But why not when the relay is reattached?
Shouldn't it work the same with the headlights. If I turn on the flasher switch, and it sends a 12v signal, shouldn't the headlights flash. Except the shouldn't because the headlights use a separate ground.
The headlights and hazard/turn signal lights are only sharing a 12v source to activate either one. No?
I assume, whether it's the Whelen module sending 12v, or the Forester itself, the lights should flash when a 12v signal is received.
Both switches are not both activated at the same time. The hazard light button is depressed.
So, not sure which part of the circuit I would then need to isolate? What's jamming my signal?

 

Without captions describing what the photos are showing, they are pretty useless.

 

It sounds like the problem is a lack of resistance. I don't know why adding a new resistor, in the form of the flasher, would decrease resistance; but that is what is sounds like.

 

Not sure what part of the circuit would experience a lack of resistance.
Could you please be more specific?

 

Please confirm the following:
1 - You are using this module to flash your turn signals only, not your headlights/high-beams is that correct?

2 - Are you only hooking up your front turn signals? Do you care about the rears?

3 - What are you using as your "Control" signal? i.e. What are you using to activate the Whelen module, do you have your own switch? Or are you trying to use an existing switch from the Subie?

4 - This is more a question about the Whelen module, if hooked up normally, what does the Whelen module give priority to? The headlights or the "flashing"?

 

Conan,

1: I am using this module to flash my hi beams and turn signals.

2: I am using the wires that control the hazard lights, because it controls the front and rear.
Front and rear is important.

3: As of now, I have not installed a control switch as of yet. Only contact the control switch wire to a 12v positive source i.e. positive battery terminal. But there will be a separate control switch, not existing.

4: Not sure about the 4th question, about priority. But I think it gives priority to the headlights because when I press the hazard light switch, the hazard/turn signal lights do not work. They only flash once then stop. But if I activate the control switch for the Whelen module while everything is connected, the Whelen flasher module will work, even when the Forester hazard light flasher relay module is installed.


If you require more specific photos, I can take them and upload. Not sure how many people are familiar with the 2014.

 

I've just looked up the diagram/manual for your controller, and it only controls TWO circuits. You are attaching it to FOUR!

As I said previously, you'll need to wire it to the headlights in the normal fashion but manage the signal to the turn lights such that they:

work correctly with the controller off
wig/wag with the controller on
but yet, work correctly with the main beam on, at night time too. This is the difficult bit...

 

Yes, that is the difficult part I'm trying to work out.
I was away on a road trip for 3 days and drove 12 hours straight each way.
So now that I'm back and rested, I'll start working on the problem again today.
But I encountered a problem before I left. Tried to start my Forester and the battery was dead.
I have kill switches for all my add ons, because I never like to leave anything powered on.
The Whelen module taps directly into the battery with a red and black wire, and has a separate control switch wire that acts like an on/off switch.
Everything other component I have installed just needs to be grounded or 12v applied.
So I'm assuming, even when the lights are off and Whelen not on, it's still sending voltage to my hazard/turn signal wires interrupting the signal.
I'll try doing a current draw test today. If the device is still on, I'll disconnect the ground wire for the Whelen device, see if the current draw stops and the device turns off. Then I'll see if the hazard/turn signal lights work with everything connected including relay.
If so, the black wire coming off the Whelen is a fairly small gauge. I'll just have to lengthen that wire to run inside the car, install anther interrupter switch, completely disabling the Whelen. Hopefully it'll act like another kill switch. Hopefully it will also allow my hazard lights to work since there will be no signal whatsoever coming from the Whelen.

 

Few things to try out...

1. Does the unit flash the headlights (and only the headlights) as designed?
Yes > then the module works as designed, continue to next step.
No < then get this working first.

2. Does the unit flash the parking light/turn signals (and only these lights) when you have only these lights connected as if they were headlights?
Yes > awesome, continue trouble shooting.
No < they may be ground activated rather than voltage activated (I haven't checked this myself.) Try using the connections in the manual for the other type of activation (that's what all the "American Clunker" wires are for... lol). If that still doesn't work, then you probably have the wrong wire for the signal bulbs.

3. If you get both separately working, then you need to install a relay that activates when the headlights activate to activate the amber lamps. The relay needs to energize the coil quick enough to match the flash rate, so a Solid State relay is recommended. Also, you need to make sure you get the right type of relay (Normally open or normally closed)
Try just the turn signals with the relay to see the behavior of the lights with that added to the system. You should be connecting to the signal bulbs at the bulb harness.

This is just to get the front lights to work as you intend them to.
To add functionality for the rear lights, you will need more relays. I don't think it is a good idea to use the hazard switch wires since there are other connections between the switch and the signal bulbs.
Basically you will need a relay for each tail light and each turn signal (6 by my count) to get this unit that is designed to control 2 lights to work.


I think most people are having a hard time understanding what you are trying to do, and the pictures you have posted just show some harnesses and wires without context of what you have changed. I doubt any one was going to take your pictures out to their car and compare them to their set-up one by one to see what you were trying to do. Calling someone a three year old is not appropriate. Even someone familiar with what you are trying to do would have the same hard time figuring it out.


FOR THOSE WONDERING WHAT IS GOING ON:

The OP wants to install a unit to get his lights to flash like an emergency vehicle. The "WIG-WAG" means that the left light flashes, then the right, alternating between them. The unit he purchased was only intended to control one pair of headlights. Whelen makes units designed to control 4 or 8 lights. For example, the UFM8 would be the unit he should have purchased, needing no additional relays. It is more expensive than the unit he has, but would prevent needing 6 relays. If you are intending to do the same, please get the right module and save yourself some headaches.

 

1. Module works with lights.
2. Module works with warning lights.
3. Before your reply, I ordered some diodes from Amazon. They will arrive tomorrow and I will install them in line with the two circuits going to the hazard lights.
Although you say other components are on that circuit, 12v from an alternate source won't damage anything.
With the diodes installed, hopefully when the hazard lights are activated, the current will stay on that side of the circuit and will not travel to the high beams.
If it works, I'll end my post with some photos of the completed work.
Guess we were sort of thinking the same thing. The relays would act the same way, but allot more, more wires, more bulkier and also allot of clicking everywhere. Haha

I thought this module was the headlight and warning light model.
My fault for not ordering the right one. But installing diodes isn't much of a headache either I get what I want for less

 

But on another note, I did not call anyone a 3 year old. I basically said this session wasn't designed for 3 years olds. I never saw captions on any photos in forums I visited.
People are able to comments below, but this website did not allow me to do so. Only drag and drop, which I think is pretty "useless".
But someone who knows what headlight wires look like on a 2014 would have no problem understanding them.
Also, being that I am new to this forum, I don't need angry trolls with no respect mouthing off behind a keyboard.
Saying my photos are "useless" is considered "mouthing off", and shows a lack of restraint.
If my pictures were lacking in anything, someone could have respectfully advised me to make changes.

A bunch of random photos even looks odd to me. But for example,
I've been under the hood of my vehicle for about 2 weeks. If someone posted photos of their 2014's headlights with an issue, I'd be able to figure it out because I've been starring at the electrical system for 14 days.
That's why relevant "experience" helps. Because I don't need someone who owns a 1999 Chevy Tahoe complaining they can't understand my photos.

But overall, thanks for the help of people who did comment without being rude or disrespectful.

 

Ordered these from Amazon yesterday. Schottky diodes. Was the only way I could think of preventing current from going back to the high beams.
MonkeyRacer later suggested relays, but I had already ordered these.
Always thinking Japanese, smaller and more efficient is better for me.
Of course ordering the right module have been easier, but less fun.
This mod only requires 2 diodes at 10 amps each fused in line with each circuit.
The relays would have required 6 with tons of wiring. These switch faster, make less noise and are heavy duty for the job. Won't fail anytime soon or get hot.

 

Diodes in line with the circuits coming from the solid blue and solid yellow wires sliced into the left and right high beams. Blue for left, yellow for right. But for lengthening the wire into the cabin, I just used red and black, nothing fancy.

 

These are the wires sliced into pins 2 and 3 on the rear of the hazard/turn signal relay plug. Now the current stays on the hazard switch/turn signal side and does not travel to the high beams disabling the hazard and turn signals. But the Whelen is able to send current one way over the diode to the hazard lights making them flash with the high beams.

 

A video displaying the lights working would be much better, but a photo will have to suffice. When left high beam flashes the right side marker flashes and vice versa. The lights flash alternate.

 

Will finish installing the switches. One problem may still remain. Left this connected the same night after completing a partial install.
Turns out it drained my battery. Car would not start the next morning. Not sure if the problem remains, but if it does, whatever solution I find other than creating a ground kill switch, I will share my findings later on.
Also, found these bulbs, Putco 217440R Mini-Halogen Bulbs. Very difficult find. LED's are horrible. But hopefully these fit without any problems. They can replace the stock amber/yellow 992/7440's. Easy fix for EMS personnel.

 

what's the maximum current rating of that module btw?

 

caution then, as you're pulling just under 20A through it...

 

I kind of figured that, the reason why I put in a 20 amp fuse instead of the recommended 15 amp.
I don't go on that many emergencies and these will never be on for an extended period of time.
So that's why I'm continuing to just have fun with this project and learn more about my Subaru.
If the module burns out from an extra 5 amps, I'll just buy the proper one if in deed they do sell them.
With all the additional wires, I was for sure this was the one that operated the high's and sides.

But now I have a new issue I'm working on where the DRL's are now powering the hazard lights.
Even after disconnecting the DRL resistor and relay. Lol. :grin2:

This is in deed turning out to be more fun than I expected :smile2:

 

From my experience with Whelen products, they seriously don't like being over their rated values, they will get hot to the point of causing fires. I have seen flasher modules go up in flames from being overloaded, so I would bring it back down within its rated limits, don't want to burn down your Forester!

Max Input current of 12A with a protection rating of 25% gives you the 15A fuse that is recommended in the instructions. Also the fact that the next fuse after 12A is 15A .

The magic number for circuit protection in emergency vehicles is 25% extra capacity, which you should see from any emergency product supplier.

 

Hmmm, that's good to know. I'm never too proud to learn and except solid advice, because I don't know everything.
Still have the car in the garage. I'll go swap that fuse out for a 15 amp.
Yeah, I know I'm making a super rookie mistake, but people can't learn unless they fail. I'm kind of in this by myself, so I appreciate the comment on my post.
It helps more than you think. It'll probably save me a Subaru and a life. Thanks

 

Ha, got it! Ended up finding where in the circuit the unwanted voltage was coming from.
Also, strange how now I'm using the voltage from the DRL's even when they're disabled. Such a weird design Subaru.... But now the turn signal/hazard lights are off.
What was happening after I isolated the turn signal/hazard lights was, until I actually went driving yesterday, without the engine on, the car in drive and the handbrake released, I had no idea once those things were in place the high beam circuit would have voltage going to it keeping the hazard/turn signal lights steadily on..
I was driving around with the turn signal/hazard lights on without being able to use the turn signals. Lol. That unwanted voltage was interrupting the circuit, always keeping the side lights on.
Well, until I fully turned on the vehicles running lights. That would then disable the high beam switch and activate the driving lights. But who wants to drive around everyday with the full lights on?
Pulling the high beam relay and bridging the relay activation circuit lets that circuit stay connected without activating the other side of the relay.
So overall, it costs me 2 diodes, one pulled relay and some time. Also now, no high beams upon demand except with the Whelen flasher is active. But I can still flash using low beams.
I'll figure out how to activate the high beams next Perhaps I'll think about it throughout the week.

 

Video showing the stock lights in real time action.

https://youtu.be/LmCodAaH9uw