[JonDeeZee]

I'm trying to build up to car camping out in BLM land (like that Subooneru guy). After car camping last night and waking up this morning (alive). I think I might be ready.

I guess I have to ask. What do you do if you need to take a dump? Dig a hole? drop the #2 in a bucket?

 

[Texaswheels]

Carry a shovel, dig a hole.

 

[frankinmaine]

You can also look at portable toilets if you have a gal in tow, or are new to camping. They involve a plastic bag inside some sort of unit. There are also snap shutting toilet seats that fit on a bucket. Some have an inner liner.

Start by camping near a developed camping area that has a vault toilet. Always check for spiders(flashlight)
in the hole before you sit and drop sensitive things in the hole.

It is a bunch easier finding a sit down than it sounds. BLM land gets vast, but your first concern should be water, not poo holes. Have fun.

 

[hank]

These are even warmer and more comfortable than ThermaRest pads:

https://www.rei.com/product/881904/exped-downmat-xp-9-with-pump

I used to travel with a long hard-plastic rooftop box (Yakima brand) and, with a thin sheet of plywood in it, it made a great sleeping box.

Scared the hell out of some hunters who went walking by before dawn one time, when I sat up out of the 'roof rack coffin' they were laughing at.

 

[Big Jon]

As well thought out as the Forester is I'm surprised the front passenger seat doesn't fold flat. I can load an 8' stepladder in my PT Cruiser and close the hatch. At 6'-5" I could even fit. :laugh:

 

[JonDeeZee]

Thanks for the info Frank!

Since ive slept in my Forester two weeks ago, I have looked into pooping out in the wilderness. I think i'll go with the bucket toiletseat and the garbage and zip lock bags

 

[JonDeeZee]

As well thought out as the Forester is I'm surprised the front passenger seat doesn't fold flat. I can load an 8' stepladder in my PT Cruiser and close the hatch. At 6'-5" I could even fit. :laugh:

Big Jon,

I'm 6'0" and barely have enough room to fully stretch out. Even though it's known that the sleeping area is 6'5" (the same as your height) I didn't calculate the room needed for my feet to tilt down and stretch out. I think I only have 1 inch to spare. I wonder if there's any after market seat options for tall guys like you.


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[JonDeeZee]

Alright, I bought my poop solution. REI has their annual sale until the 29th


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[hillbille]

cabin for two...

My prototype:
... built w/ 15/32" marine ply for the deck. THe support frame is 3/4" wide stock. 1/4" Cargo mat is recycled rubber

PLatform is 6.5' long with seats forward.

Hinge portion( front flaps)are just cantilevered. NOte the 1/2" thick reinforcing trim glued underneathe the hinge to accept the
8-32( pitch)T-nuts. When I mounted the hinges, I purposely made it so the flaps would be inclined 10-20 degrees( knowing things would stretch and sag with use.
They now lay flat when folded down.

Hinge is stainless and much more rugged than anything from a home center.
found it here on AMAzon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J0JU5C/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=i1HD4&pf_rd_r=MN2XCVRKEBTVYVT8KGN8&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B005J0JU5C&pd_rd_w=YhZvx&pf_rd_i=piano+hinge+72+inch&pd_rd_r=6RW9NGX08EFB3ZF48B61&ie=UTF8&qid=1496785809&sr=1
"Stainless Steel 304 Continuous Hinge with Holes, Unfinished, 0.060" Leaf Thickness, 2" Open Width, 1/8" Pin Diameter, 1/2" Knuckle Length, 6' Long (Pack of 1)"

I'd like to make the 2 front pieces into one unit( across the middle). That wil make it more stable when standing on the edge of it( @ rear passenger doors) to access roof gear.

The aluminum C-channel you see in the middle( on each side), is epoxied back to back making it "H-channel"( picture it laid over). ,,,, then epoxied to the wood on one side and screwed in with small flathead sheetmetal screws. I think I used #6 screws. It's used to "lock" the pieces together.

The rear platform "support frame" has dowels located on the very front to lock all pieces to each other. The front portion of the frame is built up 3/4" stock with 15/32" ply glued and screwed to the bottom.
I drilled into some endgrain( weak joint) joining the front cross piece to the left and right sides.
but backed them up with screws "toenailed" from the backside, as well. NO screws are driven straight thereby cutting across grain, instead of forcing grain to split..

Other ideas to make it more secure involve the seatbelts, Al angle, secure mounting of the rear support frame to the unibody, and many 1/4 turn DZUs fasteners.. But that will be rev x2.

 

[JonDeeZee]

Beautiful work HillBill. I wish I had the tools and the skill for something like that.


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[hillbille]

I wish I had the tools and the skill for something like that.

Circular saw, power drill& bits, countersink,, 6' straight edge,tape measure, cardboard, knife and pencil will take you farm, pilgrim. Throw in a rasp, paint brush and oil base stain( took few days to de-smell/cure in hot sun). Wate base stains are available- much less stinky.
I was going to seal w/ clear poly, but thought the turd was polished enough.

 

[SweetSoulB]

I made an interior hatch opener for my 2012

 

[JonDeeZee]

That's brilliant! I don't have an automatic tail gate, so I think I may copy this idea for my 2015 FXT, hope you don't mind [emoji4]


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[SweetSoulB]

T'was why I posted it! To help give others ideas.

 

[hillbille]

Beautiful work HillBill. I wish I had the tools and the skill for something like that.

Beg borrow and steal( well borrow) the tools.

Folks are trying to get a Torrance meet and greet( somewhere in these forums-old thread) together. That's not far from LB, CA.

Make it worth my while ( for gas) to get up there from the female whale's nether regions and bring a roll of that red rosin paper,,,,,Trimaco 36 in. x 167 ft. Red Rosin Medium Weight Paper-35145 - The Home Depot

,( I think it's ~$12 plus tax) they sell at HOme Cheepo/BlowEs for running down hallways you want to paint( cardboard is better , but you can easily rip and cut the paper and tape for templates) ,,,utility knife, your camera ,and you can get a look at it. Easy to pull it out and trace/make template.
And clone.

CArboard/templates and adjusting those (prior to final cutting of plywood) take more time than the actual fab.
At that point, adjusting the individual pieces( trimming a bit here and there) take much more time...
For stain: soak steel wool pads in vinegar overnight and use that solution to stain the wood/bring out the grain of the veneer... Easy, cheap and effective.

You'll spend about 30-40% more for quality ply...

Propane torch can also make a nice wood burning "stain" prior to a clearcoat, if you wanted to do that. But bare wood, needs something over it to protect/give traction for your everyday loads and sundries.

NOte the number of layers( plies) in the plywood you buy!
The ( supposed) marine ply I bought recently only had 5 layers plus a thin veneer layer on either side.

The standard 1/2"//15/32" exterior grade construction ply (4'x8' sheets) will only be 5 plies and NO veneer.

The "furniture" grade ,15/32", crap that comes in 4'x4' sheets on the endcaps, has only 3 plies plus a veneer on both sides.

MOre plies= strength.
Do the math for $/ft^2...

Some marine plywood(15/32") that I bought several years back had 7 layers PLUS the veneer layers on either side that make finishing so easy. That's 9 total layers...
The ( supposed) marine ply I bought recently only had 5 layers plus a thin veneer layer on either side.


:N_poke:Exterior grade and "MARINE" ply use water resistant/proof adhesives, FWIW.
:|"Marine" has less voids in the plies.

At very least,get (5 ply) ,exterior grade construction, 15/32" standard ply.. You'll have to deal with the rough quality and splinters, but can be overcome with a bit of elbow grease and wood putty.
Marine grade ply should have little to NO voids or 'football" shaped patches (that youcanfind on standard plywd). less labor, more strength, easier finishing.

Old "saw" applies: "you get what you pay 4".

 

[wcski]

I'm starting out my sleeper build and have a somewhat different question for the community.

What kind of places do you like to stop at when traveling and sleeping in your Forester?

Seems like a stupid question because it all depends on where you are. I'm just curious if y'all think places like highway rest areas (in the US) are good places to sleep? Wal-Mart parking lots? Are there any other decent secrets that living-in-your-vehicle-savvy folks know about as OK, generally safe bets of places to check in for a nap when you're on the road?

Obviously campgrounds or if you are hiking/fishing/mountain biking or some other activity the trailhead is usually an OK place. But I'm thinking for more low-key, roll up late and leave early kind of places. Any crazy stories resulting from the spot you happened to pick for the night?

 

[hillbille]

Out of the way, off-highway where noone else is, and facing the approach(the exit),,,,,,, if for only a catnap in the driver seat to recharge .

Any defensive weapons at the ready..

Alarm set for 1/2 hr..

 

[wcski]

Thanks hillbillie. Using your build as inspiration.

That is an interesting answer. I kind of agree with the school of thought that if your vehicle is parked in a more normal looking place ("quieter" city street, neighborhood) you're less likely to be noticed, whereas if you have pulled out on the side of a remote country road any passerby will wonder what you're up to.

I think that a lot of this will vary locally. My story is that I have just moved to the North Carolina from Utah. In Utah the amount of public lands (which was usually the reason for camping/sleeping in a vehicle) made it very easy to find places. There is not so much public land in NC, so I'm having to be a little more crafty.

Building a nice sleep system sounds like a really fun project and I know I'll use it here and there (festivals, fly fishing trips) but I do question how practical it is for a few reasons: 1. If I have to be at a campground, setting up a tent is just as easy. 2. It seems like it would only work well with one person + gear, because without a trailer or roof carry system there is not room for two people + gear. 3. In order for the best sleep arrangement my design involves sliding the driver and passenger side seats all the way forward, which makes a quick getaway impossible should the unfortunate need arise. There is just an inherent creepiness to sleeping in your vehicle in a lot of cases I think, and I was wondering if anyone else thought of these things!

 

[old_biker]

First I will say WHEW!, I just read through most of these 23 pages, & thanks for a lot of great ideas!

potential sleeping in back was one of my reasons for liking the Foz over other variations. I have slept in nearly every vehicle I ever owned over last 30+ years with most being pick up trucks

I have had my own style for too long, but need a change as I am getting older, I have slept on top of motorcycles, beside motorcycles with tarp over me & leg chained & padlocked to bike, plus always packing a deterrent to any that mean me harm. & have used a dual fuel single burner camp stove most of my life, as gasoline is easy to get, & dont have to worry with propane, white gas, or butane or other fuels.

when wife traveled with me she would sleep in cab of my truck & I would sleep in the bed, I would stack up some cinder blocks 2 high down middle of truck bed, then stack in cab & tailgate corners leaving nothing for support on fenderwell side, & I would use a black tarp over all blocks with usually a plank on fenderwell to hold tarp, with me sleeping under it, & I used the egg carton foam to lay on, & I have been through quite a few rough storms, 1 light snow, & too many cold nights to remember.

for cooler I used an electric Coleman cooler, hooked to 2 deep cycle batteries in bed, I had old jumper cables wired to vehicle battery to a switch i had to the deep cycle batteries, so I could run fridge & not draw down my main battery, but still be able to use alternator to charge batteries when driving, I also carried a crock pot hooked to an inverter & sometimes cooked meals while driving with the crockpot on floor on passenger side between wife's feet.

by the way for a potty we took 2 cinderblocks out of bed & wife sat across 2, this worked for her. wife never has asked to go with me on 2 wheel trip. & I almost never spend money for a motel, & my only tent is a kids tent, 6'X3'X3' the tiny ones they sold at Wallyworld if they still sell it? yeah when I went to biker shows it gave me a place to put cooler, store beer, & alcohol, & still sleep, was always the laughing stock with the tiny tent, but it worked its purpose, & people always noticed it since it stood out & no one messed with my belongings.

so this looks like it may be awesome to sleep in. ill find out soon enough to test it at home to see what I need & use a few ideas from here.

 

[hillbille]

seats all the way forward, which makes a quick getaway impossible should the unfortunate need arise. !

:| I suppose you could make a quicker "getaway" snuggled into a tent?

THe tent is a given in a camping situation. It can serve as a closet for the bulk of your clothing, etc. so as to make room in the car.

To clarify: What I described is nothing more than a freeway "refresh"( I like to drive across the SW deserts at night- starting a Zero dark Thirty and arriving at or before sunrise) "catnapping" in the driver seat.

THere're plenty of offramps to nowhere along the 10 FWY where you can park with your back up to an empty desert( several hundred yards off the fwy). I'll usually find big rig or two parked where I choose to pull off
( a little more safety in numbers, IMO).

In the car, you're much safer in a thunderstorm surrounded by a FAraday/roll cage( falling tree branches) and the "walls" of the car don't rustle in the wind. PLus, every little noise is not so worrisome , as a feral wild boar can't tear into a car, nor can a bear or other wild critter( without a lot of effort anyway). A hungry bear can rip a car door off.

Food inside a tent is a NONO.