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To avoid all this re-learning & resetting, using an OBD ECU memory saver thingamajig with external power would be good right?
 
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Ok, New 2010 subie Fox owner here. X limited with auto transmission. Changed the battery 2 weeks ago and got rough idle problem. Followed the steps mentioned and I can say IT DID work. I did not notice the idle going up and down as much but it slowly began to smooth out. The final verdict will be tomorrow as it sits over night.
 
My 2017 Legacy battery died a few days ago, (only 39 months in service 😩). Voltage was so low I was unable to open the trunk and get my jumper cables out (not the best idea Subaru has ever come up with). AAA came and jump started the car. Drove home with horrendous drivability issues, stumbling, hesitation and poor throttle response. Charged the battery overnight and before starting the car next morning I waited 15 seconds after one start button push (accessory position) before starting the engine. Drove normally after that. Replaced the battery that morning and had no issues.
 
Ok, New 2010 subie Fox owner here. X limited with auto transmission. Changed the battery 2 weeks ago and got rough idle problem. Followed the steps mentioned and I can say IT DID work. I did not notice the idle going up and down as much but it slowly began to smooth out. The final verdict will be tomorrow as it sits over night.
I changed at least two batteries in my 2010 2.5X Limited and never experienced an idle re-learn or any other problem. Both were DIY changes and I took some time to clean the terminals and battery tray/compartment after I removed the old battery which took a little time so it was not a real quick battery swap, maybe a half hour before new battery went in.
 
Ok, New 2010 subie Fox owner here. X limited with auto transmission. Changed the battery 2 weeks ago and got rough idle problem. Followed the steps mentioned and I can say IT DID work. I did not notice the idle going up and down as much but it slowly began to smooth out. The final verdict will be tomorrow as it sits over night.
2 days have gone by, rough idle gone.
 
Interesting read. My interest is in doing this after disconnecting the throttle body to remove and clean it. On my previous Nissan, there was a throttle position and idle relearn required when cleaning or replacing it. Moreover, it was a more complicated process that required the vehicle trans and coolant temps to be at a certain range, as well as the air temperature. It was a finicky process and could require retrying a few times before it actually worked. In fact, one of the tricky things was ensuring the ECU was going into learning mode.
I am surprised how simple it seems to be on the Subaru. Does it really make no difference what the temp of the intake air will be, such that doing it in the cold ( a bit below freezing), vs a warm car in a garage, or doing it during the summer months? Is there anything about this in the service manual?
 
Well... here we are again- nice to see all of y’all that I haven’t seen in a bit!

2012 Foz. She sat for an eternity needing LOTS of work done. Battery died, and now that I have her back, I am now having idle issues. The battery is a Deka that was manufactured in 4/17. I tried the idle relearn procedure the day I got her back, and was unsuccessful. I’ve been dealing with stalling issues for around 2 weeks. Should I replace the battery, and then try the ideal relearn procedure? Or is it possible the TB needs to be cleaned (had plugs, new valve cover gaskets, and timing cover gaskets put in, could it be something as simply stupid as a air filter?)

thanks in advance y’all. Maybe I need to try the procedure again first before doing any of this.
 
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The procedure worked for me twice before, but I'm having trouble getting it to work this time. I saw someone commented to disconnect ground strap (I was only disconnecting + side), so I'm trying that and the procedure again now. Will report results.
 
The procedure worked for me twice before, but I'm having trouble getting it to work this time. I saw someone commented to disconnect ground strap (I was only disconnecting + side), so I'm trying that and the procedure again now. Will report results.
Ok I got it to work. I tried 3 times and it wouldnt set properly... Kept remaining slow... It was 100 degrees. I waited till evening and worked fine (and it was easier on me not dripping sweat!)
 
@1.618 you only need to remove the battery ground cable.

Curious why you had to use this procedure?

Bobby...

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
I've done it in past when I did work that required battery to be disconnected. This time though I cleared a code and it forgot how to idle. I've cleared that code numerous times before and dont remember having the idle affected, but it did this time. Now I just gotta find the problem with the code. It's a small leak in evap system. Changed the cap last year and it fixed it, but it's back. I will check the cap again, but I think it might be the filler neck or the vent. It's my wifes car and she doesnt mention check engine light is on, so I thought id get it straightened out. I changed the radiator last week, old one just split along the top. I've changed the power steering pump twice. She loves it though, so I'll keep it running while I can!
 
The procedure worked for me twice before, but I'm having trouble getting it to work this time. I saw someone commented to disconnect ground strap (I was only disconnecting + side), so I'm trying that and the procedure again now. Will report results.
I've used the relearn procedures several times with no problems. A word of caution.
Always take the ground cable first. If doing the hot side first, if you touch any metal wit your tool you'll get some fun sparks or the tool could weld itself to the metal. It may be only 12volts but there's a lot of Amps. Stay safe.
 
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@Bod
Thank you so much for this! At first I did not know what was going on. I had replaced my battery in my 2010 Forester 2.5X Premium (Non Turbo) and not until a week later is when I started experiencing my engine cut off when coming to a stop.

I did purchase 2 VVT valves along with the oil pressure switches, thinking it was that. Afterwards, I was going to replace the EGR valve followed by cleaning out the throttle body and then if that would not work, I was thinking it was the fuel pump! But then I found this article and said, why not! Oh my! It worked! Thank you so much! I saved myself some money, despite dropping over $250 in parts, but at 110,000 miles, it was not cant hurt to have those parts replaced.
 
My battery died and after sitting for a couple days I replaced it. I don’t have a rough idle but my fuel economy is horrible (20liters/100km instead of the normal 10liters)

would this be the same issue?
 
@stever1000 if it was me, I'd give the idle relearn procedure a try... it's basically an ECM reset. It only costs a bit of your time & if it doesn't help, you can move on to other troubleshooting for the poor gas mileage.

Bobby...

['07 FSXT Member Journal] ['03 X Member Journal]
 
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Good point! I’ll give it a try and hopefully that helps. The only other change is a new stereo but I don’t think I’m driving the car harder because of that :D

I did the idle relearn and I’m still getting bad mileage... the only change was the dead battery and now it’s a new one??
 
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