@Boostlover1 Welcome to the forum from DFW, TX.

The 4EAT is bullet proof compared to the Manual Transmission, my 2001 Forester with the 4EAT now has 227,000 miles. It's bullet proof from the perspective of more post on here about clutches and throw out bearings than there are of 4EAT issues vs the number of vehicles with the manual transmission.

But to replace the clutch, you should get a clutch alignment tool and this applies to any vehicle with a clutch. You'll need a transmission jack or a jack of some sort to lower the entire transmission, and you'll need jack stands to support the front end of the vehicle. Due to the size and weight of the transmission, I would not attempt to do this as one person, I recommend grabbing a buddy to help you out.

There is a guy on youtube that does the entire job himself. https://www.youtube.com/user/kanmarad

Good luck.

 

Manual transmission is great but with the transmission is the trans axle and centre diff i did a swap out recently as crown or pinion gear had lost teeth ... it was very straight forward mind in fully equiped workshop with gear box hoist .

But yes you need tools speciific to subaru although universal alignment tool works ..

There are two different clutch assembly so identifying which yours is .. usually your vin number will sort this for pre ordering unless
Yours has been converted...

I am looking out for a six speed but would the high low unit even though its about 35% reduction it is useful in tight manovering ...

Just wish subaru would do a Utility cab chassis as their 4x4 system is great in the car format lol

 

Pretty labor intensive job, but if you know how to drive manual, a clutch will easily exceed 75,000 miles, so this is probably a job that only has to be done once.

I did not have a transmission jack, me and a couple buddies removed the transmission under the car and just bench pressed the thing onto a creeper dolly.

 

Thanks for all the replies! Just makes me love Subaru more. I wish the 2.5 XT was in a manual for 09 to 13 but after hearing and seeing how good the 4eat is i will consider it.

 

When I replaced the clutch in my 2010 Impreza, basically the same as the2009/2010 Forester under the hood, I did it when I had the engine out.
Considering it took me less than 3 hours to get the engine out, being my first time I ever worked on a Subaru, and not having to deal with the axleshafts, drive shaft to the rear, etc, I don't know that I would do it any other way. But then I also have the cherry picker to take it out.

Most good clutch kits come with a line up tool. I only replaced the clutch because I was there. That was near the 100,000 mile mark, and it looked like it had a lot of life left in it. Given the abuse the PO did to the car, I was bit impressed. The replacement (Luk) had a little over 130,000 miles when I traded it, and still had plenty of pedal travel left.

So a lot could depend on how well you drive stick, and how abusive you are. I could have probably gotten over 200,000 miles out of a clutch in that car. I also towed a trailer with it every so often. A decent mix of city and highway use, so it's not like those miles were all highway.

The AT does have the advantage if there is a lot of start stop as the clutch can get a bit old in those circumstances, although the Subaru clutch pedal is pretty light. But if you get a knee injury, or have arthritis...

I had been driving my neon while I had the engine out, and after I put the Impreza back together, I thought the clutch had air in the system, as the pedal seemed to just hit the floor with no resistance. After a bit of troubleshooting, it dawned on me that I had just gotten used to the neon's clutch. (Actually a V6 Stratus clutch)

The CVT in the Forester is actually a nice change, as I have been driving MT's for the last 30 years. I wasn't sure t first, but it is actually nice not having to shift gears for a change. And I still have the neon, so it's not like I can't get my MT fix if needed.

 

@ Boostlover1 I have done clutch replacements on a 2008 WRX, 2003 Forester and most recently on a 2009 Impreza 2.5i. It's easiest and fastest to remove the engine. These engines are setup from the factory where you can quickly remove them. This is the easiest way. Removing the transmission with a transmission jack is a PITA. Because the engine naturally wants to lean back towards the front of the car as you are trying to remove the transmission.

 

Thanks!

 

Also given how the dowels in the bell housing like to corrode and keep the engine and trans mated together in a seemingly permanent bond, I don't think I would want to deal with that issue trying to move the transmission.

It was a big enough challenge on the engine side, but at least gravity was in my favor, instead of against me.

 

Currently in process of replacing the clutch & pressure plate on my daughter's '11 Forester. Yep, those steel dowels in the aluminum bell housings can be a challenge.

Based on my son's past experience with the clutch in his 4th Gen Outback, I also ordered a replacement clutch release fork. I'll post back when I get the engine out and survey the damage. BTW, the daughter is pretty good with a stick and I don't suspect that she was a contributing factor to the clutch failure.

 

@ Boostlover1 yes I did it in my driveway by myself. For the 2003 Forester 2.5X I did it in 3 days. I spent the first day removing the engine. I spent the second day replacing the rear main seal, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Cleaned up the input shaft housing on the transmission with brake cleaner and a rag. Replaced the throwout bearing and input shaft sleeve. On the 3rd day I put it all back together. You should get a clutch kit with a sleeve that goes over the transmission input shaft housing. If you are going to do this job, don't put yourself on a time crunch. Take your time and don't be in a hurry. The first time I did this job it took me longer because I laid under the car and removed the bell housing bolts from the transmission. On the second time I did this job after watching YouTube videos, I raised the hood up into the service position. On the Forester you can use a few bungee straps and raise the hood straight up and strap it to the cargo bars on the roof of the car. Then lean over the fender on each side of the car and remove the bell housing bolts. For the bottom bolts/studs I used a 3/8 drive ratchet with a shallow 14mm socket. I stuck it between the cv axle and the engine. There is just enough clearance. I had to use the floor jack handle as a breaker bar to get them started loosening. This saved me alot of time as opposed to removing the bolts from under the car. On the 2008 WRX it took me longer because of the turbo. I did not remove the turbo to remove the engine. It just took me more time. There are YouTube videos that you should review to help you prepare for this job.