Electronics cleaner or WD-40 spray it on the switch and move the switches back and forth. I had the same problem with my 2001.

 

This reminds me of the clam chowder thread.

You could try some of the CRC electrical cleaners which are labeled as safe for plastic. I'd still wouldn't trust it though and would remove the switches and avoid getting it on the plastic anyway.

Plastic Safe Yes in ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Plastic Safe Yes

www.crcindustries.com

 

This reminds me of the clam chowder thread.

I hadn't seen that thread. Holy doodle!

 

If you can live without heated seats for a while, then I would try to remove the switch completely from the connectors, and then immerse the switch in distilled water for a day, to dissolve much of the sugary gunk in it. Then shake it dry, and then bury it in a can of uncooked thick grain rice for another 2-3 days to soak up the residual moisture.

 

@SueBrew How do you take the switches out 😬

 

Maybe it's not exactly the same as your layout, but the steps should be the same. When you get the whole cover off there's probably some screws or clips securing it. You'd have to check underneath it after you unplug the connectors.

 

I'm going to respectfully suggest that one who doesn't know how to address this issue should probably take the car to a shop.

The dealership could pop those switches out, clean everything up and put it back together as good as new in no time. Guessing that they'd charge one hour labor.

Get a free dealership coffee, chill in the waiting area with free wifi, maybe walk through the showroom and sit in a new Outback...

Bring your daughter so she understands why there's no more eating and drinking in the car except for water.

 

The dealership could pop those switches out, clean everything up and put it back together as good as new in no time.

Really.. In no time. Not on the planet I live on.
Either they spray in cleaner that the OP could do, or they will disassemble the panel, replace the switch or a full panel, depending on how large the boat payment is that month, at full retail cost, and charge $200 per hour for the service, or somewhere between the two.

I'm thinking that using an inexpensive alternative might just be slightly more cost effective, as others have stated.
In this case, the switches are just sticky, not dysfunctional.
Cleaning is most likely all that's needed.

 

Here's the issue: The dealership COULD pop the switches out etc..etc. but which dealership does exactly as the customer wants (assuming a reasonable request, which this is)?

Maybe the more educational would be to have the daughter assist in the repair so it drives the point home about not drinking soda in the car.

Mom knows best. What say you @PlantMom4 ?

 

I don't understand why a dealership wouldn't pop out the switches and spray them with electrical cleaner if that's what the customer asked for.

Either they can or they can't, will or they won't. Ask up front. If they say no then go somewhere else. Seems like a non-issue to me. Easy money for the dealership.

Asking someone who has never worked on cars to take apart their interior, on the other hand, is a bit much. Crack one piece of plastic trim and the OP will wish she had paid to have someone do it.

IMO, respectfully.

 

I understand exactly why. PROFITS and taking advantage of someone in a distressing situation. Someone who has never worked on cars will likely be baited by the service department into additional repairs/replacements not covered under the warranty.

Electrical cleaner will clean the contacts, but may not fully reach the inside rocker mechanism, which is the primary problem here. Dealerships will replace the switch since there's no margin to repair existing parts, particularly electrical ones, resulting in additional costs beyond the estimated 1 hour of labor.

I'm not saying that the do-it-yourself route is for everyone, but also giving a dealership the benefit of the doubt on a non-warranty repair is a crapshoot at best. Perhaps a trusted independent mechanic is a better, more economical approach.

I think if the OP didn't have the willingness in asking complete strangers on a forum how to possibly fix this by themselves then I think they would've gone to the dealer in the first place.

BTW, I agree with the words:

Always do the easy and CHEAP thing first.

 

I would not soak the switch in water, soap, etc. They make products specifically for this type of thing for fast and safe results so you don't have to worry about leaving to dry for hours or risk corrosion of the contacts , etc.

+1 on the suggestions from @bman400 and @TTiimm for the use of an electronics contact cleaner. CRC , WD-40 and others make them. They are fast evaporating and safe for most plastic materials (make sure to check the manufactures instructions).

Another alternative is simply using isopropyl alcohol and a Q-Tip. Let a little bit at a time run into the joints and rock the switch back and forth. Contact / electronic cleaners are usually alcohol based (perhaps with some petroleum distillates.

I like this alternative because I can still apply while the switch is installed and these products will evaporate very quickly. Again, take necessary precautions as these products are typically flammable.

This is my course of action typically and in fact, my wife had the same exact problem on her 2020 although I used an interior cleaner at the time (not my first choice) which was also fast drying. ......same concept. I have also used steam which is what some detailers do as well to clean crevices, seams, vents and switches in interiors. It helps break up the gunk that collects in these small spaces. .....followed with a towel.

As mentioned earlier, I typically do this while the switches are installed, only resorting to removing if the initial cleaning doesn't work. Again, these products are fast evaporating / drying so it's a quick process. The electronics sprays usually come with an applicator straw so it easy to make sure the product goes where it needs to. I would just be ready with a damp towel to clean the surface if you're concerned about a possible reaction with the switch surface.

Again, these products are usually flammable while wet (before they evaporate) so take any necessary precautions like disconnecting the battery if you are not removing the switch(es). I don't but I wouldn't suggest others do the same. However, I'm also not saturating the mechanisms. Just a little bit at a time, let dry and do it again until the switch moves freely.

As for the dealer, I have doubts they would even go as far as removing the switch for cleaning other than to replace it. I have a feeling they would likely do the same thing or similar to what I'm taking about. Spray the switch with cleaner, break it free, wipe up and call it a day.

 

My point isn't switch replacement vs cleaning.

My point is bringing the car to an experienced mechanic vs DIY by someone who lacks experience, tools and/or location to work on a car.

I mean, the OP's questions indicate a lack of experience working on mechanical systems. At a certain point we need to be pragmatic, cut our losses, do what we do best and pay someone to do things that we can't, then move on with life. That's all.

It doesn't require 5000 words essays.

 

It doesn't require 5000 words essays.

....and in the last 17 years I haven't required anyone's approval to express my opinions in an effort to help others on this forum. If you have a problem with the length of my responses I would suggest not reading them in the future if it bothers you to the point of being disrespectful. There is also a nifty ignore feature on this site you may want to take advantage of.
You made mention of an electronics cleaner and that specifically was what I was talking about. I wasn't trying to change your point or put words in your mouth. Personally, I think going to a dealer for this is a waste of time as is trying to remove the switch for cleaning for the reasons I mentioned. I'm speaking from experience with the excat same problem as the OP in several applications including the same car with those same exact switches. ....but do what you feel comfortable doing.

Sorry to others but I have a pet peeve about dismissive responses / attitudes especially when the conversation has been respectful thus far. I've said my peace and I'm moving on.

 

If you've never removed interior pieces before, this is probably not the best time to try. Take it to a car stereo install shop. They know interiors quite well and how to disassemble them. They also know electronics quite well. Bring them a can of component cleaner because they probably won't have one on hand. High chance of it being substantially cheaper than dealer labor rates.

 

Take it to a car stereo install shop.

Next best thing to doing it yourself...

 

If you're going to go the removal option, looking at the part it seems it's not something that will just pop or pry out. It appears to be attached from the backside of the console. It also looks like (to me) an enclosed unit so again, any solvent will probably need to be applied from the top in either case and the rockers worked back and forth to loosen them up.

If needed, I do have the FSM for the 2020 Forester and might be able to try to look up some info on removal of these things, tab locations, etc. whether you decide to DIY or even have someone else do it so you know what's involved. The FSM isn't very intuitive in regard to finding some things but I can give it a shot. ....but please, only if you really need it.

Here's a pic of the switches I found in a search:

 

99% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store works fine. Spray it on and work the switch back and forth until it moves freely. Repeat if necessary.

 

Maybe worth a shot, but the only reason I wouldn't recommend this is that it might strip the paint markings off the switches.

 

I mentioned it earlier but you can use a Q-Tip to deliver the product into the gap around the switch so you're not soaking the out side of it, white lettering, etc. in alcohol.

You bring up a valid point as even with "interior safe" cleaners the white lettering on things like the turn signal stalk in some applications can be smeared or removed with a little rubbing. .....I've seen it happen on more than one occasion. I don't see that as the case with these switches but always good to be cautious if you don't know for sure.

 

Q-tip is a good idea, but what about getting a small bulb straw dropper bottle, filling it with the 91% isopropyl alcohol, and then adding the drops into the crevice of the rocker liberally until the switch moves freely, this way it's more precise application...

 

....sure. The takeaway is that you want to dissolve the residue that is making the mechanism sticky regardless of how you are delivering the product in there. Whatever works but I would avoid pouring or spraying a bunch of alcohol, electrical cleaner, etc. in there.

Whether it's a Q-Tip, dropper or similar, that would be my suggestion as a course of action. .....a little bit at a time as you work the switch back and forth until it moves freely again without resistance.

 

I’d opt for a new oem switch. You may not be able to get inside the old one to clean properly. Dealerships are not know for cleaning anything. They mostly replace parts. I think it’s also a liability issue. Just buy a new oem switch and never drive with liquids inside the car. 😂 I too spilled a beverage once. Coffee. But it didn’t get inside any electrical parts.

 

I know in my case with the 2001. The switches still worked. They were just sticky/stubborn to move.....as stated in my original post, it's NOT that difficult to fix, seems some are super duper worried about destroying the plastic trim with electronics cleaning spray or even WD-40...My 2001 now has 243,000 miles....switches still work and the plastic panel is still intact...

 

just go online to a parts site, order a new one, easy to install yourself. It's a new car. playing around with it and damaging the electrical system due to a short is just not worth it.

 

That's $120 bucks for the switches plus labor if the OP isn't up to DIY, vs $0.02 of cleaning solution.
A short would have already happened, and a dirty switch doesn't cause a short, the switch just stops working, but in the OP's case they still work, just sticky.
Replacing them would be an option if they can't be made functional, but as a first step. would be an expensive option that might be unnecessary if cleaning is all that's needed.
Me - I'd vote for cleaning first.

 

The OP hasn't chimed in to update so far. Hopefully they got the issue fixed one way or another. We've provided enough input for a rational decision, rest is up to them.

 

This may be a little out there and I don’t know how to make it happen but I had a similar issue when a coke can exploded (it was unopened on a hot day) in my 2000 foz which went all through the radio and tape deck (remember those). Radio stopped working. Couple of weeks later I had an ant infestation. They cleaned the radio and it worked perfectly again. It was easy enough to get rid of the ants.
Don’t know how to make it happen but if anyone has a suggestion…….