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2017 - Torque Binding? (merged thread)

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12K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  BillyCorgi  
#1 ·
My Forester developed torque binding and I've been trying to solve the problem for over a year and I finally have and I would like to share it with the forum. For those not familiar with the term, this is when the front or rear axles bind on tight low speed turns. My old 4x4 Ford Ranger does the same exact thing in 4 low. The door sticker for tire pressure says 29 for the back and 30 psi for the front. I noticed the front tires still deformed a lot more than the rears with this setting so I tried setting the front to 31 psi and kept the rear at 29. Also I noticed the problem got much worse with a passenger in the front. Amazingly this solved the torque binding completely. It could be due to some peculiarity with the Toyo AT tires I have.
 
#4 ·
Yup it sure did. The spec calls for front tires to be 1 psi higher than the rears. This must be to compensate for tire deformation due to front weight bias. If you are getting torque binding because your tires are deforming more than expected, a psi or 2 more in the front could help.
 
#6 · (Edited)
@BillyCorgi
You could be right because the problem did seem to get worse when hot. I'll have to drive it around more.

Did more research and have come to the conclusion that you are probably right. If it is the center diff than this car is a delicate POS that has caused me one problem after another. I got the manual trans to avoid the notorious CVT problems but it came with it own set of issues. I just had it out for a complete clutch replacement. So the center diff is a sealed unit that shares no oil with the trans and cannot be rebuilt? Great!
 
#10 ·
Check eBay. There is a seller that sells low mileage take out center differentials for a reasonable price. It was one avenue I looked into before trading my 5MT Impreza.

but I'm not young anymore, and working on the ground tearing apart the transmission case to replace it just wasn't as appealing as it might have been 20 years ago.



There's also a decent YouTube video on changing it.

The manual transmission AWD system is actually the worst set up out of all of them.

I too sort of fell into that trap. I like manual over auto, and that used Impreza at the dealer happened to be MT, so it was a "No Brainier". Or so I thought...
 
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#11 · (Edited)
Check eBay. There is a seller that sells low mileage take out center differentials for a reasonable price.
I spoke to the Engineer mentioned above who rebuilds the viscous centre differentials in Australia.
He says that getting a used centre differential is a lottery. Yous pays your money and you takes your chances.
He says that there is no real way of telling if it is really any good unless it is stripped down, and by then it needs a rebuild.
He says that all viscous centre differentials will fail, it is not a case of IF, it is simply a case of WHEN.
 
#15 · (Edited)
The guy in this video says the diff can be rebuilt easily so now I don't know what to believe.
The guy in the series of three videos, although well meaning, is not doing it correctly.

After rebuilding in excess of 1,200 Subaru centre differentials the Engineer I spoke to says that he builds them to tighter tollerances than does the Subaru factory units and his process guarantees the gearset clearance is set and maintained correct throughout the assembly process.
Also the 12kg and 20kg units that he makes are now appearing onsold through Rallyspec. (Admin may delete that last sentance if so required)
 
#18 ·
Hi,
I recently found out my center diff is going bad with usual symptoms of torque binding and hopping when hot. After doing some research on this, I came across some videos that say these are rebuildable when Subaru says they are not. Some people also say you can remove the clutch discs and turn it into a non viscous open diff. My Forester uses the brakes to control wheel spin and has open diffs on front and rear so it should work with and open center diff too? Any of you experts know if this would work?
 
#19 ·
Hi I believe I have a torque binding problem as above. I've forced it into 2wd with the fuse hack. It also smells like hot trans fluid. There's only a slight vibration on full lock in AWD but a really strong smell, could this be the viscous fluid getting too hot?
 
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