Did you take a pictures during the installation? This sounds very interesting..

 

Sorry I didn't take much for pictures. With all wires it was kind of a mess to take pictures that made any sense. The pictures in the installation manual were helpful though. Here are a few I did take.

https://i.imgur.com/LVLwZhx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Z7WUqHF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/82ZUjlj.jpg

Also, when you buy the EVO-ONE it includes a code for temporary access to wirecolor.com where it has pictures and wiring information. I took a look but everything I needed to know was already in the installation manual I had.

Sounds very enticing esp this part..Simply press the LOCK on the OEM fob 3 times in a row and she starts right up. Unlock, open the door (vehicle remains running), insert the key and turn to start and you're ready to go. If you kit the brake pedal before inserting the key the engine shuts off.
I would have gone OEM but for the engine shut off.
I am reading more on this

Exactly! That's what attracted me to it as well. That, along with still being able to use the OEM key fob and not having to deal with the dealer to activate it. I am considering adding an RF kit with aftermarket remotes to take advantage of the security system, but I still need to talk to Fortin about if I can use the security system with my OEM remote. I am able to arm the alarm by locking the doors with the remote but I can't disarm it with the remote...I think it needs a signal from a remote rather than just monitoring the CAN-bus for an unlock signal. Otherwise a thief could just open your door and hit the unlock button to disable your alarm.

 

Sounds very enticing esp this part..Simply press the LOCK on the OEM fob 3 times in a row and she starts right up. Unlock, open the door (vehicle remains running), insert the key and turn to start and you're ready to go. If you kit the brake pedal before inserting the key the engine shuts off.
I would have gone OEM but for the engine shut off.
I am reading more on this

 

Wow, that looks complicated AF. I had my Viper system installed, best $300 ever spent especially after the cold weather we've been having here in the NE.
I must say though, the three times lock button to start is nice, I have a small remote for that. On the downside, I have ocd when it comes to locking the car and press the lock button until I hear the honk once so I would've probably started the car each time I got out... LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Did you get the Viper system with the cell phone type remote or do they have a small fop remote. Just saw a video and looks like a much more complicated system than what Id like. There is a local installer not too far from me they offer 1 way and 2 way.

 

Seems complicated but compared to other installs I have done this is pretty straightforward. The t-harness helps a ton and the other connections are all in one spot that is easy to access. Though the ignition harness is easy to access, I still probably wouldn't have done it without the t-harness. Anyways, if someone isn't comfortable and familiar with wiring things its definitely worth the money to have someone else install it...$300 isn't bad for a remote start kit.

I usually do the same thing when locking the car! But, there is an option in the EVO-ONE to do a Lock-Unlock-Lock sequence instead of the 3X Lock to avoid accidental starts. But it hasn't been hard to adjust to just trust the first beep.

 

Thank you so much for your post! it is amazing experience sharing.
If you don't mind, I have some questions.

1) When you update firmware, there is a toggle from bypass to remote start.
Did you also update remote start section? Link manager kept being disconnected and I couldn't even update remote start

In detail, EVO one unit hooked to the computer, You stated "Fortin has good documentation and you messed with a few options.
Which options are you talking about, I see only one option, firmware upgrade on "connection mode - bypass" once I toggle to "connection mode - remote starter which disconnected adn couldn't even update it.

2) can you explain more on program the immobilizer? you said "involves using the programming button and connecting the wires in a certain sequence, followed by starting the car, but when you starting the car, all wires already should have been connected to existing wires, I guess.

3) Did you also have to set up "click 3 times of lock button to start up " at firm ware update options?
I didn't even see that options at firm ware update options.

4) What does "digital key" mean? I read that" connect the EVO one back to the computer for the software to generate a digital key",
what is that digital key for? is that for Water-color info or something else?

Sorry, too much questions but I also purchase these sets but kind of stuck at firmware update.

Thank you in advance if you could share your grea experience.

 

Thank you so much for your post! it is amazing experience sharing.
If you don't mind, I have some questions.

1) When you update firmware, there is a toggle from bypass to remote start.
Did you also update remote start section? Link manager kept being disconnected and I couldn't even update remote start

This was a bit finicky. To go between bypass and remote start I had to disconnect the unit, close the program, reopen the program, toggle remote start, then plug in the EVO-ONE unit. For some reason I wasn't able to just toggle back and forth with the EVO connected. And as far as updating the remote start firmware, I checked and it was already up to date.

In detail, EVO one unit hooked to the computer, You stated "Fortin has good documentation and you messed with a few options.
Which options are you talking about, I see only one option, firmware upgrade on "connection mode - bypass" once I toggle to "connection mode - remote starter which disconnected adn couldn't even update it.

Try what I said above to get into the remote start connection mode. In there you'll see different options for setting the behavior of the remote start. For example, in here is where you select the option to do the 3X Lock command to initiate the remote start.

2) can you explain more on program the immobilizer? you said "involves using the programming button and connecting the wires in a certain sequence, followed by starting the car, but when you starting the car, all wires already should have been connected to existing wires, I guess.

Yes, you don't program the immobilizer until all your wires have been connected. This procedure is outlined in the installation manual. IIRC, you hold the programming button and then first insert the main ignition harness to the EVO. Holding the button the lights will flash in a sequence and you're suppose to release the button when the lights are a certain color/combination. Then you insert the rest of the connectors, followed by pressing the programming button 6 times. For the last step you start the engine and let the EVO program itself. Once the LEDs indicate it is done you can shut the engine off. Disconnect the EVO and go back to the computer to run the Dycrptor software. Seems complicated but just follow the steps in the manual and you'll get it.

3) Did you also have to set up "click 3 times of lock button to start up " at firm ware update options?
I didn't even see that options at firm ware update options.

See above on how to get into the remote start connection mode.

4) What does "digital key" mean? I read that" connect the EVO one back to the computer for the software to generate a digital key",
what is that digital key for? is that for Water-color info or something else?

This is the dycrptor part I mentioned above. I'm not sure exactly what is going on (maybe digital key wasn't the best term), but this is where the EVO is programmed so it can access the vehicle network.

Sorry, too much questions but I also purchase these sets but kind of stuck at firmware update.

Thank you in advance if you could share your grea experience.

No problem! I hope I was able to help a bit...let me know if you have any more questions.

 

Sorry I tried to attach images but can't but if you see the manual, 3 cut wire connection parts,
These questions are regarding those 3 cut wire connection

Thank you so much on my previous questions.

I have some more questions if you don’t mind.

Regarding your comment on 7 wires to access on the BCM Wiring
When you say, tap into 4 of the wires, and bypass the other 3
(cut the wire and splice into each cut end~)
Would you explain about portion of the cut and splicing wires,

1. Please look at Red Circle 1 in attached diagram, Does it indicate that

a. Connect and solder car wire (11) with A20 & D6? I think it makes sense

b. Why do we have to cut the car wire (11) which was connected with D4?
Why after connecting 11 with D4 and cut, Instead of just leaving D4 itself
Because once you cut the car wire 11, then wire 11 is not even connected with car system
,which doesn’t do anything for remote starting system. Any idea??

2. For Red Circle 2,

a. I think that it makes sense to connect car wire (31) with D3

b. But why do we have to cut the car wire (31), after connecting with A10 and D1, Instead of just connecting A10 and D1?
Once you cut the car wire (31), then the car wire (31) is no longer associated with car system,
so doesn’t do anything to remote starter, does it?
Why don’t we connect A10 with D1 without bringing two wires down to the car wire (31) in the drawing.

Thank you in advance for sharing your experience!!

 

Regarding your comment on 7 wires to access on the BCM Wiring
When you say, tap into 4 of the wires, and bypass the other 3
(cut the wire and splice into each cut end~)
Would you explain about portion of the cut and splicing wires,

1. Please look at Red Circle 1 in attached diagram, Does it indicate that

a. Connect and solder car wire (11) with A20 & D6? I think it makes sense

b. Why do we have to cut the car wire (11) which was connected with D4?
Why after connecting 11 with D4 and cut, Instead of just leaving D4 itself
Because once you cut the car wire 11, then wire 11 is not even connected with car system
,which doesn’t do anything for remote starting system. Any idea??

2. For Red Circle 2,

a. I think that it makes sense to connect car wire (31) with D3

b. But why do we have to cut the car wire (31), after connecting with A10 and D1, Instead of just connecting A10 and D1?
Once you cut the car wire (31), then the car wire (31) is no longer associated with car system,
so doesn’t do anything to remote starter, does it?
Why don’t we connect A10 with D1 without bringing two wires down to the car wire (31) in the drawing.

Thank you in advance for sharing your experience!!

For all the cutting and splicing wires, you are essentially putting the EVO-ONE unit in series with the vehicle. Wired correctly, the wires are still connected with the car system. For controlling the door locks, security LED, and IMO, the EVO must be in series with the wiring compared to just tapping into the other signals (horn, parking lights, etc).

For example, let's look at the door locks:
1) Find the wire in the vehicle harness that leads to pin 11 on connector #3 .
2) Cut the wire, leaving enough wire on the connector side to connect to it (ie don't cut it flush with the connector).
3) On the wire coming off the connector (pin 11), connect EVO harness A20 & D6.
4) On the wire going into the vehicle harness, connect EVO harness D4.

Going from the EVO unit to the vehicle harness it would be in this order: Connector Pin 11 ---> A20/D6 Wire --> EVO-ONE Module --> D4 Wire --> Vehicle Harness

So, everything is still connected to the vehicle, you are just cutting the wire and putting the EVO-ONE in between. Hope that makes sense. It's the same for the other cut/splice connections.

 

Thank you so much again,
Here are some more uneducated questions if you don’t mind.

1. When you say, connector 3, connector 3 is original connector attached to Car?

2. When you say, vehicle harness, vehicle harness is original wire bunch attached to Car (connector)?
- Sorry, I am just confused.. :O

3. I understand number 2) and 3)

4. I don’t understand 4), because where do we cut then? Diagram shows “cut” the wire from pin 11, I guess,
But you are saying connect EVO harness D4 with the wire going into the vehicle harness,
Then we don’t even cut the wire going into the vehicle harness (same as wire coming off the connect (pin 11)
 Is the wire coming off the connect (pin 11) same as the wire going into the vehicle harness?

5. Would you possibly elaborate on your last sentence? I really don’t understand this order,
order for installing or order for remote starter command flowing? or …that order doesn’t make sense to me,

“Cut” is should be really to cut the wire….from connector,but your explanation doesn’t seem to cut any wire…am I understanding correctly?

Please advise…

 

See if this makes any sense.
https://i.imgur.com/qO687w0.jpg

Connector #3 refers to the 31-pin connector that goes to the BCM (that is already part of the vehicle harness). The EVO install manual labels this connector #3 .

 

Now I fully understand wire connection mechanism with your professional drawing,

I am wondering now if you ever used “Hood Pin Contact Capot”,
It shows in the diagram but do we just have to connect it with A15 wire (Pin/Black) and taped with other wires?
What about switch? I believe that switch (2pin) hooked to (G port) at module and named “Valet/Programming Button”
By the way, how is the switch (Valet/Programming Button) different from ByPass Programming Button (I port)?

I believe these are my final questions…hopefully. I appreciate your full guidance and time…again.

 

No problem!

I did not install the hood pin contact, mainly because I didn't want to deal with mounting it and running a wire into the engine bay. But, it is only utilized if you use the security system anyways...the remote start system doesn't care if it is installed or not. If it is installed with the security system active, it will set off the alarm if someone opens your hood. It is a simple contact switch that is grounded when the hood is open. I probably wouldn't even install it with the security system...a common thief is more likely going to enter through the door (setting off the alarm) rather than prying your hood open and disabling your alarm.

The valet/programming switch isn't necessary with remote start either. It can be used with the security system to temporarily disable the security system for whatever reason (e.g. valeting your car and you don't want to give them your security remote). I've never used the valet switch for that purpose on any of my other vehicles. On another alarm I installed the valet switch can also be used to deactivate your alarm if your batteries die in your remote. If you are out and your key dies you can only open the door manually which will set off the alarm. By inserting the key into the ignition and then pressing the valet switch it will shut off the alarm. Not sure if the EVO does that but it seems like it should. Anyways, you don't need this if you are only doing remote start.

And the valet switch does what I described above and is different than the bypass programming button. I doubt the valet switch can be used to do any of the EVO-ONE programming.

 

Thank you so much!

That sounds perfect, as I need only simple remote start,
I won't even bother to install both of them.
But I have problem with Flaish link updater, which I bought it from Ebay
and I believe it is defect one. I tried all night last night and this morning
but it still doesn't connect with updating options.
It came with white box and I am not even sure it is genuine or not.
I will buy another one and will get some help from local autoshop probably.

Hopefully you don't mind when I ask you more later.
You have a good weekend!

 

While I was checking wire, I was curious about where yellow wire will be connected.
In the drawing, A1 is connected to Ignition pink, but pink ignition wire is coming off from T-harness.
Do you know where pink wire is? my T-harness doesn't have pink wire.

 

I forgot to mention this. The yellow wire needs to tap into the heavy gauge pink ignition wire. Why they didn't include a small pink wire off the t-harness I don't know. So you'll have to cut some of the insulation back on the pink wire and solder on the the yellow wire, then wrap it up. I had the small tool to remove the contact for the pink wire so I pulled the contact out of the connector and soldered the yellow wire directly to the contact, then inserted it back into the connector.

 

The only pink wire is thick gauge wire on T Harness as attached and marked with red Arrow.
If this is the pink wire that we have to use, then do I need to tab and connect pink wire with Yellow wire (A1)?
--> Now I have the answer for this.:smile2:

By the way, do we have to use wire, A15 (hood) and A16 (power lift gate)? A15 and A16 are not connected with any pin on connector diagram.
--> I believe that A15 and A16 should be disregarded....

Thank you in advance!

 

Yes, you connect the yellow wire A1 to the thick gauge pink wire. Make sure you get the pink wire and not the red wire... Mine looked sorta similar. IIRC, the pink wire is located between the black and yellow wire on the EVO connector.

Ignore the hood wire unless you install the hood pin contact. And ignore the power lift gate unless you have a power lift gate. Though the power lift gate isn't necessary for remote start with the OEM remote.

 

Woah. Im a crosstrek boy but find some awesome information over here. This is what Im talking about! Ill install as soon as I can scrape together some cash, and make a quick post about how "universal" it really is, in case it doesn't work so well for other car models.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks again!,
By the way, do you know how you open lower steering column cover and lower left dash panel?
I can't find it at Youtube.
I would appreciate if you have any photo or link that you can share.

Have a good weekend!

 

I have just figured out removing lower steering column cover,
but no luck with lower left dash panel. Any body has any idea?
I found one screw to open lower right corner so unscrewed it
but there is no screw to open on left or center side...

I will appreciate any advice

 

Actually, I figured it out as just got an idea from Tundra, pulled side panel and there was a screw like below.
Hope it helps

 

Now I am stuck with fuse box. Would you please share with me how to drop fuse box after removing lower panel?
I removed 3 screws but it won't come out because of lots of harness inside.
Did you remove airbag cover which is kind of in the way?

 

I removed all harness/connectors from the front/visible side of the fuse box. I think there were a couple large connectors and a couple smaller connectors. Once I did that the fuse box was able to drop down out of the way pretty easily. I didn't remove any airbag cover.


I had some time yesterday so I gave Fortin a call to ask about the remote shutdown and security system. It turns out with the USA Subaru models the EVO-ONE cannot monitor the lock/unlock signal while the vehicle is running. So there is no way for the EVO-ONE to know if you are doing the 3X Lock while the vehicle is running...i.e. you can't do a remote shutdown of the vehicle. I was told this isn't an issue with Canada models.

This also explains the security system. When I had the security system armed and vehicle running, I wasn't able to disarm the system because the EVO couldn't see my unlock signal. So unfortunately if you have a USA model you won't be able to use the security system with the OEM remote (at least when remote starting). Again, this isn't an issue with Canadian models.

My conversation with Fortin was specifically about my 2016 Forester, but I imagine it would be the same across other Subaru models listed on the installation guide. I didn't ask.

All of the above issues can be solved with the addition of an aftermarket remote. Kind of a bummer I can't remote shutdown the vehicle but then again I've never really used that feature on my other vehicle with remote start. It really shouldn't be an issue. And because I originally bought the system for remote starting, I'm not too disappointed I can't use the security system. Though I might do the aftermarket remotes in the future to take full advantage of the security system. Or perhaps Fortin will have a new firmware update in the future...

I would still recommend the EVO-ONE to someone looking for remote start with their OEM key. I would at least recommend buying the t-harness from Fortin and using it with whatever system you install (e.g. Viper), unless there are other t-harnesses out there now. For ~$35 I think it's worth it to get something that easily connects to the vehicle ignition harness, then you just cut off the EVO-ONE plug and easily splice in whatever system you're using. Tapping into larger gauge wires is a pain, especially soldering. There are other non-soldering ways to tap into the wires but I would be cautious, especially with cheap solutions. I would feel most comfortable using Posi-taps. They are expensive but probably provide the best connection. Only downside is they'll make your ignition harness bulky.

Yesterday I did install the EVO-ONE with rf kit in a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500. Went smoothly and everything works as expected. Wiring is much easier to access in an older truck!

 

Sorry to be late in reply...
I completely finished all installation with new firmware link updater (previous one was a defect)
With new firmware link updater that I bought set up everything that I liked including decrypt part.

Yes, I agree with your recommendation. This EVO one is pretty easy to install as long as instruction is followed thoroughly.
My one issue is, though, T harness is not completely fit in steering wheel box....
it is a bit too big and space in the steering wheel is a bit small for harness....
so I had to tape outside, which looks ugly..

How did you fit T harness completely?

 

I didn't have any problems fitting the t-harness under the steering column cover, if that's what you mean. It takes a bit of effort to get the connectors positioned in the right spot but I don't recall it being very difficult. I didn't take any pictures of that unfortunately. I may have used some zip ties as well to hold everything tight...I can't remember exactly. Consider using some zip ties if you think it'll help hold things tight.

 

I just tried a few times, but it still doesn't fit....
if you don't mind, would you take off steering column cover and
show me how harness sits with a photo, when you have a chance?

 

Vehicle: 2016 Forester 2.5i Premium, Standard Key, No Factory Alarm
After programming the EVO-ONE and setting my options, I was able to test it out. The one downside is that you can't program the EVO-ONE with the computer while it is connected to the vehicle. I had to remove it a few times and go back to the computer to get my options correct before I got it working, so I did this all before I organized all my wiring and mounted the module. But, it didn't take long before I had the remote start working correctly. Simply press the LOCK on the OEM fob 3 times in a row and she starts right up. Unlock, open the door (vehicle remains running), insert the key and turn to start and you're ready to go. If you kit the brake pedal before inserting the key the engine shuts off.

I took my time with the install and probably spent 4-5 hours making all the connections and messing around with the programming, then another hour or so to tie up the wires and put the car back together. If I did it all over again it would probably take half the time or less. Even though the instructions are great I was still overly cautious about making the correct connections...last thing I wanted to do was fry something.

It has been working great and I am happy with the result. One thing I did notice is that I can't shut the car off remotely after starting it. I did read that I should be able to do the 3X LOCK again and it would shut off, but it wouldn't work for me. I need to call Fortin to see what they say. Its not really a big deal though. Also, I would like to take advantage of the security system but I wasn't able to get it to work with the OEM fob...I think it might only be possible with an aftermarket remote system. I'll have to ask Fortin about that as well.

Speaking of an aftermarket remote, you can hook up an various aftermarket RF kits to the EVO-ONE. This opens up more functionality. For example, there are auxiliary outputs on the EVO-ONE that you can use for various functions. I read that the rear defrost on the Forester is not controlled on the vehicle's CAN-bus, so you could use the aux output to turn the rear defrost on. The security system is another thing that, like I said above, you can take advantage of with an RF kit. Also, this opens up a lot of options for remotes, such as two-way remotes with super long range.

Were you able to make it work fully with the OEM remote? I read somewhere that for Foresters that were not built in Canada, you have to buy the optional RF kit. I would like to confirm that before I order.

 

Yes, I was able to make it work with the OEM remote for a Forester built in US; however, there are a couple functions that aren't possible with the OEM remote and US model. Looks like I outlined those in my post #25. Basically, once you remote start the car, you cannot do a remote shutdown with the remote. And you cannot use the built in EVO security system.

It's been almost a year with the EVO-ONE kit in our Forster and I've been happy with it. No issues so far. And no problems not being able to do a remote shutdown...I don't recall a time when I've started it and wanted to shut it down remotely. As long as you're not button-happy when locking the car (pressing it 3X or more to ensure you've locked it) you don't have to worry about it starting accidentally.

It's been a while since I've installed it but if you have any questions I'll do my best to help.