open bleeder, push pedal, close bleeder, retract pedal

It should be

1. Push pedal
2. Open bleeder
3. Close bleeder
4. Retract pedal

The bleeder should be closed as the pedal is being depressed, not before it reaches bottom. It should only be opened while the pedal is being pushed, not while it is stationary at the top or bottom. Don't bottom out the pedal.

Also don't pump the pedal repeatedly or fast. The person in the seat should be instructed not to pump the pedal each time.

Definitely throwing my 1man bleeder kit in the trash and am going to try out a pressure bleeder (Speedi Bleed) to avoid this hassle again.

I have had dismal results with vacuum systems. The Motive Power Bleeder is pressurized and pushes fluid. It is one of the best tools I've ever purchased. Makes flushing fluid a one person job.

@maller01 just used his and can testify. See https://www.subaruforester.org/posts/7995939/.

I'm not familiar with the Speedi Bleed but if it works as good as the Motive product then you're going to love it.

 

TTim,
Yes, that sounds about right. Pressure in the system when the bleeder is opened and closed before retracting the pedal as I have done many times in the past. If you've ever bench bled a master, you see what's going on. Problem was that with all bleeders closed, the pedal could be pushed to the floor with little resistance.

Again, why would this need a vacuum on the lines?

Yes, I dont like the vacuum method either because it sucks all sorts of air through the threads unless you slather it up with grease. I was going to buy the Motive but apparently the company changed hands and the new ones they're making are junk.

 

I just purchased my Motive power bleeder earlier this year and it is indeed amazing. Thursday was my first time using it and it is the only way I will flush / bleed brakes ever again. Hands down one of the best tool purchases ever.

 

Yes, pressure method is good as long as you dont have a geyser of brake fluid in the engine bay. The way they seal onto the reservoir seems to be the biggest variability between the different products.

Regardless, I guess I'm chalking it up to the 2 man method doesn't work if there's too much air in the lines?

 

I've used the 2 person method to bleed brake systems that I just replaced all the hardlines and calipers on. I doubt the issue was too much air in the system. More likely it was an issue with methodology as @TTiimm mentioned, either the actual pump/open/hold was off, or the rotation to each individual caliper was off. Perhaps air that got into the system was stuck in the front part of the system and was inhibiting the process.

That being said, power bleeders are very useful!

 

What caused the air inside your system with the 1-man bleeder? I have been using this methods for decades without problem.

 

As I have before on other brake bleeding threads, I'm going to wholeheartedly agree with @TTiimm on the Motive Pressure Bleeder. It has worked flawlessly now on three Subarus for me. (And since I own a Ford E350 that uses the same reservoir cap, I expect it to work on that as well, soon.) I'm of the same experience as @TTiimm as well with vacuum bleeders, and "one-man" systems haven't worked well for me, either.

@eelnod - I've always had a little bit of air get around the bleeder screws with one-man and vacuum systems. Probably not enough to ever really be an issue in brake function or feel, but enough that I wasn't happy knowing it was in there.

 

I've always had a little bit of air get around the bleeder screws with one-man and vacuum systems. Probably not enough to ever really be an issue in brake function or feel, but enough that I wasn't happy knowing it was in there.

That air was due to a loose hose attachment to the nipple leaking air into the hose. Probably not the cause of air leaking back into the system. Holding the hose with a light clamp or zip tie is usually effective. I usually use a tight fitting hose then I soften the tip with hot water the first time...all home made.

 

Interesting that 2man worked for a full line replacement. I just cant see it being methodology though. I've bled brakes with 2man method for 30 years so it is not any sort of new process to me. I was thinking that this dumb 1-man bleeder let enough air in to get up to the MC and it only came out once i sucked it all back through.

The 1-man bleeder was an Allstar Performance 1-man brake bleeding system with check valve. If you drill into the reviews, you can see that the seal for the check valve can be sketchy and let air into the system on the return stroke.