[hudracer]

This is the video I started with. His tap, tap, tap hasn't worked for mine. I will continue to research! Thanks!!

 

[Warren S]

loosen the bolts about 1/4 inch (looking from the back of the bearing assembly along the axle) place bar on the head of 1 bolt at a time, hit with harbor frieght 4 pound sledge - both hands... Go from one bolt to another cris cro

ss..it will walk out.

 

[Kevin]

The entire hub.

Thread title changed to reflect this

 

[Dogs]

Put on the hub bolts and torque them back up. By pulling the hub and housing together, this can re-align the mating surfaces, and break apart any rust bonding. When loosening the bolts, do so in a cross pattern sequence; and only a little at a time (as you would when tightening). This allows the pressure to come off evenly, on all four bolts; leaving less chance that the hub is skewed within the housing (which otherwise, will cause binding).

Heat (propane, Mapp torch), on flange and where hub inserts into housing (being careful of brake lines, cv boots, wheel speed sensor etc).

Can follow up with a freeze penetrant (wurth - roost off ice, or Loctite version). Then re-heat.

Air hammer with flat face bit; to vibrate and shock loose, any surfaces that are bound together (between hub and housing).

Hub/bearing puller, if you have (or can borrow), one. It may initially just press the shaft from the hub; but when the drive shaft compresses, there may still be enough length to pull the hub from housing. Or at least the total friction on the hub will be reduced, so other methods are more effective on hub and housing.

 

[soobyhobby]

If you have a good air hammer, loosen the 4 bolts that hold the hub in place until they are mostly out, then use the air hammer on them, from the backside, to hammer the hub assembly out.

EDIT: I see @Warren S is recommending similar but without the air hammer

 

[Theseus161]

Check this out!

 

[Mike Dell]

Hi. My first suggestion is to watch a few videos on YouTube from South main Auto. This guy shows you how hard it is to do. I replaced 2 rear ones. Incredibly hard to do at home. Better order brake backing plates. I had to remove the entire rear wheel hub and bearing to get it removed.

 

[PeterfromOz]

Make sure the drive shaft spline is loose. If it is rusted, it will also be holding everything together. Also, I find that large heavy rubber mallets work well if hitting on the side as does a piece of wood held in place then hit with a steel hammer.

 

[HowieD]

I replaced all four on my 2013 Forrster recently. First, you have to remove the axel nut. Take out the four bolts holding the hub in. Take one of the bolts to Lowes or a hardware store and get two or four like it at least an inch longer. Put the bolts ingo the hub and take a heavy sledge hammer and beat the hub loose by hitting the bolts evenly one at a time.

 

[Inactive_564460]

I’m pretty sure even the biggest BFH won’t pop that hub and bearing off with that nut in place.

AGREED ! What is that "nut" doing there ???? Also, others may be right: that bearing might be pressed into place, and might not come out without a LOT of heat ... maybe more than even a propane (Mapp-??) gas torch can put out ! Might want to check with your parts-supplier to see what type of replacement options are currently on the shelf: you may be trying to do the impossible.

 

[Theseus161]

I would try a slide hammer or 3 arm hub puller from OTC. Hammers tend to knock the spindle ID out of spec. Use a lot of PB blaster overnight. Best to pull hubs out with a puller like a Hub Grappler.

 

[commonme]

Before you start, even before removing the axel nut, be sure to remove the speed sensor on the top of the axel. If you don't, it can be damaged. It's just one screw and it popped out with a bit of a twist. As always, first out, last back.\
When I did mine about 1-1/2 years ago, I used a 10 lb. sledge. A video I saw said use the biggest hammer you have (I didn't use the 12 lb.). One side came off eventually, the other didn't budge. I used an air chisel. You have to look behind the sheet metal backing plate to where the square hub mount to the axel housing. If you jimmy the housing, you will need to file it flat so the new one mounts square.
Later I saw a method of putting an old brake rotor on backwards and hitting the edge with a hammer. This would increase the lever action to work it out. I didn't have an old rotor at the time, anyway.
BTW, there is a TSB on this issue. Included they saw the backing plates can cause premature bearing failure. Mine was like 75-80k miles. The parts listed include the hub/bearing assy. brake backing plate, and the hub nut. The TSB is from about Sept. 2019. I listed it in some previous threads. It indicates that it is a part/assembly issue, but they will not fix it unless you have an in force warrantee.

 

[Nova2000]

I am trying to replace the passenger rear wheel bearing on my 2015 Forester. I am really having a hard time trying to remove the old bearing. I have used quite a bit of Rust Release and tapped with a hammer around the old bearing to no avail? does anyone have advice for loosening the old bearing? Thank you!

There is a tool called a hub shocker. I was able to borrow one. We literally used a sledgehammer on it to get the hub off. It was crazy. It’s not easy!

 

[commonme]

Nova2000
That hub shocker looks like a tool to do the same thing as using an old rotor. Nice to see they actually make a tool. Good info.

 

[Theseus161]

Hub shocker is too violent for me. Looks like it could do some damage to the spindle ID. Personally, I would not use it. Hub Grappler, yes.

 

[commonme]

When I did my rear ones, I don't know if I could have gotten the axel shaft entirely out as needed for the Grappler tool. Been a while, so I don't remember if it went back far enough to completely come out before hub removal. I am thinking it didn't. I do like the looks of it, though.

 

[GeoSol]

I have written about this issue b4. Theres another thread some here..

I have replaced all 4 on my 2014 Foz, got a loaner slide hammer and a Wheel Drive Hub Puller from pep boys for free! you get you $$ back when you return it.
Worked like a charm

 

[kaiat]

loosen the bolts about 1/4 inch (looking from the back of the bearing assembly along the axle) place bar on the head of 1 bolt at a time, hit with harbor frieght 4 pound sledge - both hands... Go from one bolt to another cris cross..it will walk out.

Just did mine. After trying every trick in the book, Youtube and in this thread, this was the one method that actually worked. I actually bought first a slide hammer and then an air hammer in the process, but no luck. Didn't even budge. If I combine the $$$ used on tool and on bus fares for a week because the damn car was stuck on jack stands in my driveway for a week, I probably didn't save that much by just letting a shop do the job...

 

[commonme]

Warren S kaiat If I'm understanding you correctly, you hit the mounting bolts from the back side. How did you get enough room to get a good swing under the vehicle?

 

[kaiat]

I removed the entire hub housing (knuckle?) from the car, but I think I would have managed to do it with the housing still in place too. A long enough rod or something to hold against the head of the bolt, so you can swing the hammer underneath. I actually used a socket extension with the appropriate socket to sort of guide my blows towards the bolt head.