[Ray Bell]

I've posted pics around here somewhere of a deficiency in the Exedy pressure plates...

This allows the diaphragm to move a bit off-centre and create problems.

 

[JS4269]

Disc= plate. Maybe a regional dialect thing.

Disc does not equal Plate. There are 3 basic components to every manual clutch:
1 - The Flywheel, attached to the engine crank shaft
2 - The Clutch Disc, attached to the transmission input shaft
3 - The Pressure Plate, bolted to the flywheel

During clutch replacement, at a minimum, items 2 & 3 are replaced. Item 1, the flywheel, should be either resurfaced or replaced, depending on its condition. The throw-out and pilot bearings are also normally replaced.

 

[turboblew]

I agree - I'll give it another 1000 miles or so before deciding on whether to tackle a replacement.

what rpms are you leaving at?

 

[speedyspaghetti]

what rpms are you leaving at?

On all my other cars I barely rev it above idle to get it started before fully releasing the clutch. On the FXT I find that I have to rev it to between 1.5 and 2k in order for it to be passably smooth (but still juddery).

 

[turboblew]

try this... on a moderate incline where the vehicle will slowly roll forward see what happens when you dont give any gas to feed the clutch...just the momentum of the vehicle moving at a steady slow speed.

 

[speedyspaghetti]

try this... on a moderate incline where the vehicle will slowly roll forward see what happens when you dont give any gas to feed the clutch...just the momentum of the vehicle moving at a steady slow speed.

If I'm starting on a slight downhill and I don't have to put in any gas at all to get the car into 1st, it is perfectly smooth. What do you think that could indicate?

 

[ol' stonebreaker]

If I'm starting on a slight downhill and I don't have to put in any gas at all to get the car into 1st, it is perfectly smooth. What do you think that could indicate?

Please tell me it's just your wording that makes me understand your forcing it into 1st gear w/o using the clutch with the engine running.
Mike

 

[speedyspaghetti]

Please tell me it's just your wording that makes me understand your forcing it into 1st gear w/o using the clutch with the engine running.
Mike

Yeah wording is bad - what I mean is: Car is facing downhill (stopped), I press in the clutch, put the car in 1st, let go of the brake, the car starts slowly rolling forward, I let go of the clutch and it smoothly grabs 1st without me needing the rev the engine additionally.

 

[bman400]

I think your desire to engage the clutch without revving the engine high enough are not realistic. Given the weight of the vehicle, AWD system, etc...you need to get the revs up slightly to get the engine near or approaching when torque is rising or you risk stalling/lugging the engine. And I suspect you are actually lugging the engine with your low RPM engagement. Is it possible that what you are feeling is lugging? As I have stated in an earlier post comparing my BMW R1200RT motorcycle with Honda VFR800 clutch engagement is night and day. One is a torque monster(BMW) with a dry clutch like a car, and the other one Honda VFR needs revs to get into the power band with a wet clutch. I can inch down the road in bumper to bumper with the BMW and never ever need to rev the engine, literally I can slip the clutch and move the bike down the road. But if I did the same thing with the VFR, guaranteed it would stall, there is just no torque unless you get the revs up.

The BMW is a dry clutch which is unusual for a motorcycle. I can hear and feel the clutch engage unlike the VFR. There is an actual "clunk" on the BMW as the clutch is touching/sliding on the flywheel. Whereas on the VFR this clunk does not exist.

The AWD on the Subaru also means you need more torque compared to say a Honda Civic. You have more mechanical load to move hence got to have torque, hence get the revs up. If you were driving a diesel as one of the other posters was comparing to, then yah, you probably could get away without needing to get the revs up. Diesels produce boat loads of torque at just slightly above idle.

 

[speedyspaghetti]

You are probably right - all of my other manual cars have been small/light and FWD or RWD, so it may just be that I'm not used to it yet. I guess I've always been taught to not slip the clutch too much in order to preserve clutch life.

 

[Jetmech99]

You won’t be slipping the clutch really if you do it right, it’s hard to get it right sometimes!

To every one following this thread the OP started a new thread saying he replaced the clutch & flywheel & still having the problem kinda, not as bad but still!!

 

[ol' stonebreaker]

I taught my granddaughter that it takes some real coordination between the left and right feet to get it right. You have to leave it at idle until at the right point of clutch engagement you give it a little more throttle until full clutch engagement. The only times I've seen a clutch chatter is when the springs in the clutch disc lose some of their tension and the resulting slack causes the chatter. This is why I at first questioned whether the clutch disc was also replaced. Some mechanics will look at the amount of wear on the disc lining and not look at the springs' condition and decide it's still "good enough".
Mike

 

[Kevin]

To every one following this thread the OP started a new thread saying he replaced the clutch & flywheel & still having the problem kinda, not as bad but still!!

Thread Closed - discussion continued here: ('03-'05) - 2005 - New clutch! Way better but still a bit of judder in 1st & reverse.