[colorado hooker]

G'day & Welcome @colorado hooker First thing to check is if the Check Engine Light is actually working - does it illuminate when the ignition is turned on?

Yes, all check engine lights and qarning lights illumimate when attempting to start

 

[colorado hooker]

To confirm, was this the cam timing that you verified?

Has the cam belt, water pump etc. been maintained as per maintenance schedule?

Is the vehicle AT or manual?
2.0L turbo? Or N.A?

Do any of the cylinders fire at all when cranked?

After attempting to start, can you smell fuel coming through to the exhaust? And are all the plugs wet?

Can she describe how she was driving at the time? Uphill, downhill, flat, cruise, accelerating, which gear, what speed etc

Can she describe how the car reacted other than the sound? Did the power just switch off like a light? Did it jerk back and forth whilst it was popping, did it kick hard or violently?

Was the popping very loud? Did it come from the front or the rear of the car? Was it an occasional or intermittent pop? Or was it consistent or rhythmic sound? Was the popping rapid, or slow? Did the popping start from the instant the power died, and continue the whole time till the car stopped? And was the volume and/or speed of the popping sound, consistent with the deceleration of the car and/or engine?

Yes, I confirmed that the cam timing was correct in relation to the crank, timing belt and associated items were replaced less than 50k ago

vehicle is manual, not turbo

no cylinders fire or sound like attempt to fire

flat ground, accelerated to 70 mph, highway

power stayed on untill she pulled over and turned off the car, then wouldn't re-start, no jerking or any other unusual vibrations felt.

pop wasn't super loud and appeared to come from front of car, only one pop heard,

 

[colorado hooker]

oh...boy.. that does not sound good at all.
well, you check spark, fuel, all you need to do is check for compression.
Did you check for metal shavings in the oil? or milky coolant? Could be a blown head gasket.
If I where to guess, spun rod maybe a bad valve as collateral damage. But that's just a guess.

Let us know after you do a compression check. You can buy the tool or rent it at most auto parts stores.

i did check the oi, and there is no apparent metal in it, the coolant is normal. I did not check the compression with a gauge as there is was no loss of any type of fluid, and when turning the engine over by hand you can feel the crank going thru the stages, ( i know you can't always feel all the cylinders, but if any cylinders had compression then you would still have some attempt to start)

 

[colorado hooker]

To confirm, was this the cam timing that you verified?

Has the cam belt, water pump etc. been maintained as per maintenance schedule?

Is the vehicle AT or manual?
2.0L turbo? Or N.A?

Do any of the cylinders fire at all when cranked?

After attempting to start, can you smell fuel coming through to the exhaust? And are all the plugs wet?

Can she describe how she was driving at the time? Uphill, downhill, flat, cruise, accelerating, which gear, what speed etc

Can she describe how the car reacted other than the sound? Did the power just switch off like a light? Did it jerk back and forth whilst it was popping, did it kick hard or violently?

Was the popping very loud? Did it come from the front or the rear of the car? Was it an occasional or intermittent pop? Or was it consistent or rhythmic sound? Was the popping rapid, or slow? Did the popping start from the instant the power died, and continue the whole time till the car stopped? And was the volume and/or speed of the popping sound, consistent with the deceleration of the car and/or engine?

also, there is no evidence of fuel at the exhaust, smell or liquid. i did not pull the spark plugs and check for fuel at the cylinders yet, that will be my nest step.

 

[colorado hooker]

oh...boy.. that does not sound good at all.
well, you check spark, fuel, all you need to do is check for compression.
Did you check for metal shavings in the oil? or milky coolant? Could be a blown head gasket.
If I where to guess, spun rod maybe a bad valve as collateral damage. But that's just a guess.

Let us know after you do a compression check. You can buy the tool or rent it at most auto parts stores.

Also, as i replied to DOGS, the engine was still running and did not shut off on its own. My daughter pulled over after the pop and deceleration and then shut off the car and it wouldn't restart

 

[colorado hooker]

Have you checked all Earth straps?

Does this model use a cable actuated throttle and choke? Maybe check proper connection and routing; and adjustment.

I haven't checked all the grounds yet.
I pulled the injectors and rails today, after cranking the car there was no fuel evident on the engine side of the injectors, I removed the injectors from the rail housing and the rail was full of fuel. As the engine will not attempt to start i can only assume that there is an electrical issue with the injector harness as it is occurring on all 4 cylinders.

 

[colorado hooker]

Is the Fuel Gauge working???

And can you hear a fuel pump going at all?

Do you have a scan tool?

Gauge is working, and you can hear the fuel pump when key is turned on, also with key on fuel is pumped to the engine and fuel rails

 

[colorado hooker]

Gauge is working, and you can hear the fuel pump when key is turned on, also with key on fuel is pumped to the engine and fuel rails

no i do not have a scan tool