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What is the purpose of “Sport Mode” / Do We Need This Crap On New Cars? (merged thread)

24K views 72 replies 28 participants last post by  whobodym  
#1 ·
We just sold our 1998 Honda CR-V with almost 250K that we had for over 15 years and purchased a 2011 Forester. Going from the old CR-V to the Forester is like going from a Model T to a whole new world.

My question is and I hope it’s not too dumb, is what is the purpose of the “Sport Mode” as the owner’s manual calls it that is to the left when you’re in drive that has a + plus and - minus?

I guess I’m a dummy but the owner’s manual doesn’t explain it thoroughly enough or I’m just not getting it. Could someone please explain it’s purpose and when you would use it? Thanks so much!
 
#2 ·
When you move it left from drive into "sport mode", it revs higher in each gear before shifting. Additionally, moving the shifter up or down in the + and - positions allows you to manually shift the vehicle between gears. The vehicle will remain in that gear (although it will up or downshift if the rpms get too high or low). This is most used for engine braking on steep downhills to prevent brake fade.
 
#3 ·
I use the sport mode in city traffic. It moves the shift points up and shift are more firm. Electronic control over the hydraulic valves lets different shift modes exist. The normal trans mode gives you normal and fairly easy automatic shifting. Sport mode gives you swift shifts with a steep ramp. Manual mode gives a slightly softer shift than sport.
 
#10 ·
I had never tried it for city driving. I was enjoying how it was delaying the shift points slightly, and then after 5 minutes, it set off a P0172 malfunction code-- which is running rich bank 1. The car was driving nicely nonetheless. Got home, plugged in my code reader, and after getting the code, cleared it.
I researched it a bit and went out for another test run. Left it in reg mode and other than the idle now being a bit lower than it was and should be, it ran fine and the code did not repeat. Any idea what sport mode does to fuel trim?

Spark plugs and O2 and A/F sensors are less than 2 years old--, rad, EGR, coolant sensor, and PCV valve and hose also replaced over that time. Air filter was replaced a month ago and MAF had been cleaned last summer. I don't think I have any vacuum or exhaust leaks. I will monitor things as the idle relearns over the next view driving cycles. I may have to repeat the experiment in sport mode. I just wonder what the connection is between that and excessive fuel usage if any?.
 
#4 ·
With my 2.5 NA engine and 4EAT Outback, I find that shifting into Sport Mode and 3rd gear on long highway uphill climbs is useful as it substantially reduces the annoying transmission hunting between 3 and 4. On long uphill climbs on sharply twisting mountain roads sometimes Sport Mode in 2nd gear is more comfortable. As mentioned previously, this is also beneficial on long downhills to use 3rd for engine breaking. On my Outback, the current Sport Mode gear is displayed on the instrument panel.
 
#6 ·
Thanks so much folks for all your replies! I guess I’m still not getting it and please have patience.

What do you mean by “manually shifting”? When would you want to put it in the + mode and when would you want to put it in the - mode? What exactly does the + mode do and what does the - mode do? Again, thanks so much.
 
#8 ·
There is really no + or - mode. Those positions are momentary, and your shift lever is spring loaded to return to the center "Sport" position. Bump your shift lever to the + or - position to shift up/down a gear. You can treat like a fake manual transmission. My advice . . . take it out and play around with it. It will all make sense, then.
 
#7 ·
@Gebe, like others mentioned, use it to beat the automatic shifting that you know will happen as you approach a hill; with proper timing, it will shift smoother. The + means the tranny will accept your shifting higher, as the - means lower is ok. If you try to beat those indicators, it won't shift. I usually ignore them; not really needed for normal driving.
 
#9 ·
I look at this as a three mode transmission. Normal mode, shifting from neutral into "D". Sport mode, moving the gear shifter to the left of "D" mode. Manual, this mode is initiated by pushing the gear shift lever forward or back while it is in the sport mode. Push the gear shift lever forward, the transmission shifts to a higher gear provided the car is going fast enough to allow it. Pull the gear shift lever back, the transmission shifts to a lower gear provided the car is going slow enough.

When you read the owner's manual, one section talks about getting stuck in the mud or snow. In there, it tells you to use 2nd gear to drive out of the situation. The only way to do that is to go into the manual mode and shift into second gear.

Almost all cars of the past with automatic transmissions had a manual mode of operation. "1, 2, D, N, R, P" manual mode was limited to 1 and 2, though. Your car has 1, 2, 3, 4 gears.
 
#11 ·
Okay, this is the first time you have used sport mode in city traffic? Were the revs significantly higher than normal? Are your temperatures running normal?

I don't think it's unusual to see a code pop up now and then. Or even performance issues without codes. Wacky computer stuff. Maybe backing off the throttle at these higher rpm's threw a rich code. I like the mode for engine braking and throttle response. It holds third gear longer for the 35 mph zones. It could be totally unrelated, I don't know. If it was me and the code keeps coming back, I'd pull freeze frame data.

OOPS, I forgot to comment on your question. :) I don't know what it does to fuel trim, depends on how you drive. I know in normal mode, I use a lazy throttle. No point in trying to accelerate. Fuel trims would be good. This is like racing the car, more throttle, faster throttle changes. My third gear is 1:1. What goes in, comes out.
 
#12 ·
I was actually cruising down a parkway at 70KM/h when it came on. I wasn't revving high. I know most sports modes tend to increase gas mileage. So I am more wondering if it just pushed it over the line enough to set the code, and if I may have an underlying issue of running a bit rich but not enough to set a code usually?. I will do as you suggest and just monitor things for a bit.
 
#14 ·
Well after clearing the code, and driving in reg mode last night the code came back. It can be a number of things making the engine run rich, but the number one cause based on my readings is a defective MAF sensor providing false air volume information to the ECU. So, this morn I installed a newish Denso MAF I nabbed off a 2011 Forester at a pick and pull yard last summer for $4, rather than trying to clean my old one with no visible fouling. Seems to have done the trick. Drove around for half an hour and the check engine light stayed off with no issues and good performance. Did not even bother with an idle relearn. Hopefully, that is all that is required, and if so it was the easiest and cheapest repair of my life. Now the question is do I keep trying to experiment with Sport mode or just leave it be?
 
#16 ·
Tried out sport mode again last night while taking the dog for a walk down by the river. It worked fine and no repeat of the running rich code. I am just glad it was such an easy fix and that I noticed the newish aftermarket Denso made in Japan MAF at the yard last year. FYI I paid $9.85. I found the receipt and was charged for a misc sensor. Good thing because currently according to the new price list they are charging 27.50 for a MAF. I guess the person at the counter gave me a break or did not know what the part was exactly. It's nice to be lucky every now and then. ;)
 
#20 ·
I use mine in the yard. When on ice or deeper snow. Makes the thing torqier is that a word? Anyway. Easier to keep it slow and steady. My advice. In a parking lot or back road. Stop. Start off in both modes and notice how it acts.
I have found it easier to control gas pedal. sounds and feels different. Not sure I would want to use it above 25mph or so.

I found I needed to relearn driving in snow. Goose it, lift off, then feather. The computer does the traction better than I can. That was an eye opener. And did take some time to accept.

I love stomping on it in slush, it grabs off we go. She rolls her eyes at me but, eh.
 
#21 ·
Sport mode in the city is probably better for the engine. Higher RPM, means better oil pressure and a little less load.

I almost never ran my manual Impreza in anything higher than 4th gear at 35 mph.
The RPM was under 1000 in 5th, so I imagine there wasn't much oil pressure at basically idle.

It can't be good for rod and main bearings.
 
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#22 ·
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I have a 2011 Foz as well. Good choice on year; IMHO the '09 thru '14 model years are the nicest looking Foz's out there.
Now, the "Sport" mode.
It's stupid.
There, I said it. I don't kow who would actually use this mode but ...ooops ...someone on here does. IMHO, it's purely marketing hype.
Sport mode supposedly does what you would do if you wanted to engage the transmission in a full "manu-matic" mode, but were too lazy to shift for yourself.
Like others have said, the mode holds each gear until you reach a much higher minimum RPM before it will shift. The shifts are marginally quicker/firmer. If you don't reach that minimum RPM the computer has determined, the 4EAT stays in whatever gear it was in. So, you robustly mash the go pedal, the engine revs up until it reaches the shift RPM, then upshifts. If you lift off the gas before the shift point, you get engine braking slowing you down. The best way to "discover" Sport mode is to try it. I'll pretty much guarantee you'll find it "awkward".

If you want complete control and fully engage in the driving experience, then just shift the 4EAT manually and forget "Sport" mode.
 
#23 ·
Thanks so much again for all your replies and I now have a somewhat better understanding about it.

I tend to agree with Mike above that it’s kind of silly and automaker’s put this stuff on newer cars as to just say “look at all the features we have!” and are really unnecessary and it’s just something else to go wrong. If some you like this feature, that’s all well and good and no criticism here.

Like my thread stated, I’m old school and love some of the features of the newer cars but I still like things simple. As some of you said, I will try this “Sports Mode” out and maybe I’ll warm up to it.

Thanks again to all who responded and I can tell this is a great forum with very helpful folks and I’m glad I found it.
 
#26 ·
Thanks again for all your replies and help folks.

As an update, I never thought to do it but I asked our mechanic here who is very talented and knowledgeable and has the same “Sport Mode” in his vehicle, (which I didn’t know).

He said to ignore it and it’s unnecessary like Mike eluded to earlier and said just leave it in drive and the tranny in our 2011 will adjust and handle things. He drives in the same steep grades and in the winter snow and ice as we do and he never uses it and the drive mode is all one needs.

Like I stated earlier, I think it’s another feature manufacturers include that are unnecessary just to show how “advanced” and up to date their vehicles are.
 
#28 ·
@Gebe - For some people, cars are sporting equipment, and driving is a competition. They may not see it that way, but you can tell by the way they drive. They may not be competing with anybody real, but in their heads there’s something going on when they drive. They tailgate and speed. They pass unnecessarily. They scream up to a red light and then brake as hard as they can, and then peel out when the light turns green. They weave through traffic on the Interstate.

But they were forced by circumstances to buy a family car, something their spouse could also drive, with room in the back for kids. For them there is Sport Mode.

If this isn’t’t you, ignore it. It’s not for you.

I jest. Or do I?
 
#29 ·
@Gebe -
Leaving aside drivers whose right foot weighs them down.
The "sport" mode picks up the pace on uphills and mountain passes. And on the occasions when you need a quick exit.
Not only is there to believe you are a pilot, sometimes accelerating saves you from an accident. So it is good that it exists and use it at the right time.
 
#30 ·
I’m going to ignore it. I again appreciate all your replies but it still makes no sense to me and in reality is not needed. So glad some of you appreciate it but it’s still overkill to me.

Man, whatever happened to the days when you didn’t have to deal with all this complexity with electronics in cars? I don’t want a giant screen staring me in the face when I drive and distracting me from the road and having a ton of buttons or whatever to press while you’re driving and all these other complications and especially when these electronics are the most common complaints of going out in modern cars!

My wife’s older iPhone can do all of that while we’re driving! Why pay for all these these extras that will eventually wear out and create many problems down the line? Why? Because it’s what younger people demand in cars nowadays and buy most of the new cars and don’t keep them very long but demand these features.

It’s also why you have to pay exorbitant prices nowadays to get something fixed because of the shortage of mechanics nowadays that can can learn to fix these complexities.

Sorry for the rant again and some of these late model cars have sOme features that are truly viable and are great. But seriously, why have all these features built into your dash when your phones can do all of the same things without being in your face?

Okay, I’m an older guy and don’t understand all of this and to each your own and if you like it, that’s fine. Peace!
 
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