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Stainless fasteners for caliper and caliper support

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4.7K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  ForesterCub  
#1 ·
Hey :)

Like many of you, I have fallen victim to the badly corroded bolts in my brakes. I am going to apply a thin film of copper brake ease to the threads. This isn't ideal but in my mind is a lesser evil than a seized bolt. .

With my motorcycles I would routinely fit stainless bolts to the brake systems to help this issue.

My question is - does anyone know of any stainless steel replacements bolt kits for our calipers and caliper supports? If not, have you sourced some yourself? If so, could you direct me to where, please.

Thanks for any help help, thoughts or ideas you may have.
 
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#2 ·
McMaster Carr sells bolts in metric. You can filter by SS then thread pitch, length, partial thread, etc.

Just for some peace of mind, BMWs use anti-seize on caliper bolts when being installed. I've never had a problem with any backing out on my cars when torqued. I think the copper anti-seize should be fine.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for your response, enigmaticdream

In the UK 'copper slip' was used for decades, routinely, on bolts that were vulnerable to seizing. You would have thought that if it doing that caused issues that the practice would have stopped.

You do hear a lot of scare stories about applying anti seize to brake fasteners. One of the most often read ones is that applying anti seize to bolts can increase the required torque load, sometimes leading to stripped threads. How much of that is fact and how much mechanical urban internet myth I couldn't say.

I am a big fan of stainless fasteners generally. There's none of that holding of one's breath and praying that a rusted bolt isn't going to snap!!
 
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#6 ·
<snip>You do hear a lot of scare stories about applying anti seize to brake fasteners. One of the most often read ones is that applying anti seize to bolts can increase the required torque load, sometimes leading to stripped threads. How much of that is fact and how much mechanical urban internet myth I couldn't say.
Mostly myth. The tightening torque for a particular fastener - particularly the ones in the braking system - is a function of the fastener size, pitch and grade. They're probably Grade 8.8 or better fasteners. Here's a handy-dandy chart from the Fastenal folks which has both wet and dry torque values. Even without Fastenal's 'wet' chart, you can simply reduce the the torque value by ~25-30% and be safe.

Still on braking systems, some of the torque values are specified by Subaru . . . but they really don't matter that much - you are simply clamping two things together in a non-critical way. Compare this to your cylinder head fasteners, which must compress a head gasket, form a liquid-tight seal, handle extreme expansion and contraction - all rather big deals. Your brakes get hot and cool off - otherwise you just care that they don't fall off.

I use anti-seize on just about everything and I recommend that to anyone - particularly if you live in a climate with occasional salt applications to the streets. Anti-seize is the same as a 'lubricated fastener' - the wet chart.

Either wet or dry, you should be nowhere near the yield value of the fastener, including stripping threads. If someone is stripping threads, he's not checking torques, his torque wrench is badly broken, he's using the wrong grade fastener, he (or someone) has cross-threaded that fastener at some earlier time or something similar.

I am a big fan of stainless fasteners generally. There's none of that holding of one's breath and praying that a rusted bolt isn't going to snap!!
Unless you're buying aircraft grade fasteners, you may find that stainless steel bolts are less forgiving than their carbon steel cousins. That said, many Ace Hardware stores carry a good selection of stainless metric cap screws, usually in 8.8 grade. They are in merchandiser trays stocked by the Hillman company. It's worth a look. Some of the Dorman merchandisers at auto parts stores also have stainless fasteners. Finally, if you have any tool & die suppliers in your area, give them a phone call. They might have what you need in a 'broken lot' so you can buy 2 or 4 cap screws or some other small quantity. Or, you could use anti-seize.
 
#4 ·
A torch on/around a rusted bolt prior to trying to get it off can help. When I had this rusted out BMW wagon a while ago I had to use a torch prior to removing a lot of bolts or else the head would break off. It was amazing how well it worked. I didn't even have to get it red hot or anything, just for a bit.
 
#5 ·
Better check the fastener grade

I suggest you look into the grade rating of the stainless steel faster.
Bolts are manufactured to various grades of hardness, strength, etc.
You don't want to replace a faster with one that that's a lesser grade value.
It won't be as strong.

Like others do, I use never-seize when appropriate on fasteners.
 
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