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Oh no the dreaded P1088 & P1090 Codes

21K views 10 replies 3 participants last post by  gortz  
1088 & 1090 are TGV related IIRC? In which case, just swap the sensors / motors out... it's fiddly but fairly easy to do. I may have either the motors and/or a sensor - though the sensor is the same as the throttle position sensor IIRC so you should be able to pick those up via eBay.

Not sure why these would fail because of the up-pipe swap though - I doubt it's related since they have nothing to do with the up-pipe.... generally, it's the heat from the turbo that eventually cooks them.
 
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The sensor on the drivers side (RHD) is quite a pain to get to as the turbo limits access but with patience it's possible to do without removing the manifold.

I found a few How-Tos on line and cobbled it together from there. Will see if I can find them.

The sensor needs to be pre-loaded slightly which is the tricky part (easy if the manifold is off the car) as I found I couldn't turn it in the space available so I managed to achieve it by rotating the TGV spindle and then hold it in place with a screwdriver whilst I slipped the sensor into position - once you get it apart you'll see what I mean.

Swapping the motor is easy enough and will show if it really has stuck in the closed position (which is the fault state that will cause the car to go into limp home mode). Much more likely that the sensor is fubared than the motor though.

Do you need both sides or just the one?
 
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Motor is at the front (IIRC you need to remove the pipe from the air box to the pipe that goes under the manifold in order to get to it)... sensor at the back. I have a couple of the actual TGVs on their own so will take some photos for you.
 
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Yes, but I wouldn't recommend doing it - it's impossible to tell from the error code whether the TGV is stuck in the open or closed position.... there's a reason the car goes in to limp home mode when it detects a sensor failure.
 
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In order to hide the code, you'd need to have access to a Tactrix OP2 or similar as it requires a re-flash of your ECU. If you can get to the connectors, you may be able wire a resistor (not sure what spec) to fool the ECU into thinking that the sensor is there and everything is fine.

The lack of power will almost certainly be the ECU going into "limp home mode" - you probably won't be able to rev above ~4000 rpm either?).

If you can put the inspection off until the part arrives then I would definitely choose that option if it were me.
 
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