Subaru Forester Owners Forum banner
  • The "Garage" feature is for images of YOUR VEHICLE/S only - no blanks or other unrelated images please, thanks
241 - 260 of 467 Posts
I had a fruitful exchange with Eckhard Karden of Ford. I found him to be very open about technology, but he would not comment directly about Subaru when I brought up the subject of the Settlement. I suggested that there was concern about both the OE battery choices and the charging algorithms used in the basic smart alternator system in use on the SJ, and the updated algorithms in conjunction with the EFB and AS/S system in use with the SK Forester models. He sidestepped this as I figured he would, and just discussed matching batteries to applications in conjunction with matching an appropriate charging scheme with the battery design and it’s placement in the vehicle.

He was kind enough to provide a few book chapters (for my personal use) that he and his colleagues have authored. We both have accounts on ResearchGate so he suggested that I use that venue for full manuscript access to his work to avoid the paywall issue in the future.

So let’s get into it….

I set the stage by relating the community experience in past years with conventional flooded batteries and the general respect/love for AGM. Price isn’t an object here. Members of our car community are looking for the best, most robust solution. EFB is a relative newcomer to the scene, not well understood, not readily available in the aftermarket in the USA, and can cost more than a good AGM. We in North America are a bit late to the party with regards to the moderate discharge cycling thanks to AS/S, and at 4 years in many of us are now facing our first battery replacement.

I stated my assumptions about the SK system, and he confirmed most of them and added a few.

1) The Japanese makes use EFB almost exclusively in Start-Stop applications. They don’t see an advantage in AGM. You’ll only find limited use of AGM in non-starter systems (dual battery) on some hybrids.

2) The Q85 battery Subaru specifies for the SK is a high specific output product. A good choice. It meets stringent charge acceptance requirements under a wide range of conditions and has good discharge cycle life. Cost is a factor for vehicle producers, but consistency of operation, reliability, and safety are also top concerns. He has no issues with this selection.

3) AGM’s should be shielded from heat. They don’t like to be cycle charged hot. Underhood placement without thermal protection isn’t good.

4) Vehicles that offer a choice of batteries have battery selection provisions so that the cycle charging conditions are matched to the battery technology. This impacts temperature and applied voltage. Charging voltage is different for an AGM and must be reduced as battery case temperature rises. So the active use of a thermal sensor scaled to the AGM map is needed, as is thermal isolation. All this is critical considerations when constantly cycle-charging the battery. The vehicle has no way of anticipating or correcting for a misapplication of battery type.

5) If you can’t do a charging program shift, then you’d be wise to replace an EFB for an EFB, an AGM for an AGM.

So that’s the basics. But there were a few surprises.

1) Ford, like all manufactures, does extensive testing anticipating that owners will do squirrely things. Usually owners cheap-out and sub in a basic flooded cell or lower capacity battery. The results are as expected. Early death. But what about the notion that AGM is automatically better and thus a viable substitute? According to Eckhard, OEM-Grade AGM batteries (and this is a seriously important distinction!) are not as badly heat-vulnerable as initially expected, based on field experience. If continuously charge cycled hot (underhood), they will likely fail earlier than you had hoped, but probably not in a dangerous manner. But he reminded me that headspace pressurized hydrogen buildup is a hazard not to be ignored.

2) But what if you just MUST have an AGM? He suggested deciding based on location. If you live in a moderate climate like Michigan (Dearborn, maybe?), he might say go for a good OEM-grade AGM. But in Arizona or Texas heat he’d rather stay with the original recommended replacement battery type (EFB).

I did not dive into exception cases like disabling AS/S. He’s a huge advocate, and it seemed inappropriate. But I figure that if you do disable AS/S on your SK, you’ve basically recreated an SJ experience. If an AGM worked for you on your SJ, it might hold up fine in an SK. I’m not planning on going there, so I’ll stick with an EFB when it’s time for a change.
 
Very thorough and easy to understand explanation.
Thank you for that and your above and beyond efforts that have taken you to one of "the horse's mouths" on automotive batteries.
After reading, I believe I could go the route of AGM replacement of my factory battery when that day comes.
We can get wickedly hot summer temps in Winnipeg, but they don't last long (days instead of months).
And the cold weather benefits of AGM outweigh their hot weather shortcomings for my location as well.
I am pleased that the OEM EFB from Panasonic sounds like a robust and good decision, unlike Subaru's choice of OEM battery that came with my '18.
I'm not running to Walmart or Costco for an AGM battery any time soon, thanks to your research.
You saved me hundreds of dollars!
 
Thank you. I bet that was a fun conversation. Now we just need reasonably priced EFBs. Mine was at 11.9V this morning after a few days of light driving followed by three days of sitting. Sounded about the same when it cranked.
 
Thank you for that and your above and beyond efforts that have taken you to one of "the horse's mouths" on automotive batteries.
Nah, I'm not the horse. I'm the guy who knows how to find the good horse and bring him to the table! But thank you anyhow.

I had mine on the charger again yesterday after it got down low again. Funny, but it came up to around 13v after hours on the NOCO, crashed back down to 12.4, and recycled again. It's sounding like a shorting dendrite. I might try removing it and run the Repair mode.... But I agree, it doesn't sound all that bad cranking from cold as one might expect from a battery down that low.

And it may be time to press my dealer about the latest calibration file with whatever new charging parameters that might contain. And maybe a new battery to go with it?
 
Save
LASTLY.... I'm still trying to digest all that Eckhard's "OEM Grade battery" comment entails. He stressed that Ford doesn't supply junk batteries. They often weigh more than industry average, meaning more lead. And that they also pass life testing and torture testing. So when he says they don't die in a dangerous manner, he can't guarantee that all brands or models might not.

Given the above, let's state the caveat that what you do with your Subaru is on YOU and not on me or our technical contributor. We are not responsible for any damage to your vehicle, injury to you or others, or how Subaru might treat you if you mess with an unauthorized construction replacement battery.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bman400
Save
I am pleased that the OEM EFB from Panasonic sounds like a robust and good decision, unlike Subaru's choice of OEM battery that came with my '18.

What came in our 2017, looked exactly the same as the EFB in my 2021. It's lead plates were only half as high as the battery case. At the time, I was thinking "What sort of witchcraft is this?", and I wrote it off to it just being a cheap half a battery in a full size case. It lasted about 3 years, but my wife also does not drive much. At that time, it had maybe 4000 miles on it.

I replaced it with an AGM but I also bought a no name smart charger with the battery. I put the original battery on it in the repair mode, and it brought it back to life. Unfortunately I never took any pictures, as I wasn't really aware of what Subaru was using in the SK model years. I put it into my 2010 Impreza when I traded it for the 2021 Forester.

I suspect it was an EFB. Maybe they were testing them using customer vehicles, or possibly they ran out of regular flooded batteries that day, and just pulled the start stop sticker off, since it was destined for the US market. There was also apparently the quality control issue going on.

I might have kept it, but I had a relatively new AGM battery in the Impreza, and didn't want to "give it away".

But anyone with the original battery in a later SJ can easily check the insides, with a flashlight on one side, and looking at the shadow from the lead plates to see how far up they go. I see no logical reason for a standard flooded battery to have 3" of fluid on top of the plates.

It would be interesting to know if that was the norm, or a substituted battery. Most people wouldn't bother to look at what the insides looked like before tossing the battery. I only really looked, because I wanted to see if there were any cells that were low on fluid. Shining a light through is quick and simple. I got more than I expected...
 
Save
@Black21Limited What you describe is similar to what we in the south called the S instead of N battery. Heat boils flooded lead acid batteries. The extra fluid is there to hopefully reduce the chance the plates get exposed from not refilling with distilled water.

The S battery has less CCA vs N because of these shorter plates. The N have longer plates to provide higher CCA with less risk from heat exposing the plates.
 
Most people wouldn't bother to look at what the insides looked like before tossing the battery. I only really looked, because I wanted to see if there were any cells that were low on fluid. Shining a light through is quick and simple. I got more than I expected...
I still have the original battery from my '18, keeping it to use against the core charge for my next battery purchase.
I looked at the height of the plates as you suggested, and sure enough, my battery is of the same construction as you describe.
These crap batteries were used in markets other than the US, so it's not an SOA thing.
 
People were interested in monitoring and recording voltage. Here's one way to view, and record, voltage. Below is an excel chart showing a single stop and start cycle using data exported from the app "Car Scanner ELM OBD2" into Excel. Time between data points is typically 0.4 seconds, plus/minus a couple hundredths.

I've created plots of multiple parameters over much longer lengths of time, but have to sample every seventh point or so because Excel has a hard time plotting large datasets. Not the right tool. CarScanner does let you display plots on your phone, but they are tiny.

This is not an auto start/stop cycle, I just turned the car off for a few seconds, then started back up. The shape of an auto start/stop cycle is very similar. The big downward spike is the car starting, followed by the ECU adjusting the voltage back to 14.3.

I don't think this capability to plot voltage reveals anything special, since it only works when the OBD port is powered. I once used the headunit voltage display to see how long it would take (long highway trip) to kick down from 14.3 volts to around 12.6 volts. "Several hours" was my most precise answer because I missed the change. A recording system would have been nice in that instance.

Image
 
The previous morning my battery was at 11.9 V. That day I made two round trips of 5 miles each way (~48 minutes total), with a grand total of five starts. Autostart/stop disabled itself during that time, presumably due to the low battery voltage at first start. Today the morning voltage read 12.05.

For my own amusement, I'll let the charger sit this week to see how the battery recovers when fed a daily regimen of relatively short, residential trips. Also might see what starting voltage is roughly good enough for Autostart/stop to enable itself.

Edit: I’ll post what I find in a separate thread, since it’s going off topic, of mild interest to me, and probably less to others.
 
@boureesub The symptoms you're describing are eerily similar to what my 2013 Nissan Leaf has suffered since I installed the Walmart Battery. When I test it, the results are fine, but give it a few weeks, and it's in horrible shape until I have to plug it into a charger. I have now replaced that Walmart Battery with a deep cycle AGM. And it's been performing wayyy better. Why Deep Cycle? the charging algorithm for the Nissan Leaf is notorious for undercharging or NOT charging the 12v. The original factory 12v for the Leaf performed way better.

So I have to wonder if your current 12v battery is on it's last leg?
 
The original factory 12v for the Leaf performed way better.
We are getting off topic here, but what was the design of the original Nissan Leaf battery? EFB perhaps? It probably wasn't a plain jane flooded battery if it was going to be deep cycled by design.
 
Save
FWIW, the Q85 has been used by Mazda for a while now.

It convinces me even more that our 2017 had the EFB in it from the factory, knowing that these have been in use for some time.

This person replaced it with an AGM, but they also don't have S/S. And who knows what charging algorithm Mazda uses/used.

 
Save
I just replaced my wife's battery on here 2018 Highlander, @27,000 miles.. The car will be 5 years old this coming May. Replaced it with the EFB for the vehicle has the stop start. Bought it at a local parts store that starts with an "O". Thinking it was under 225.00.

Battery life not bad for living in WV. When I took to the parts store they did 2 hard pulls on it and it showed good. I went ahead and replaced it anyway so far (knock on wood) no problems.

And after having the battery changed shortly after that I was out on the carport and heard a pump running. I've never heard that before. After doing some research come to find out once the vehicle is driven 4-5 hours afterwards it does a self check for fuel leaks. This can last up I'm thinking up to 15 minutes.

Craig
 
  • Like
Reactions: bman400
Save
I just had to replace the battery on my 2020 Forester limited. It’s 39 months old so I guess that is normal. How long is the battery lasting for others on this site? Just wondering.
 
Replaced mine on a 2018 Forester 2.5i at right around 4.5 years. Was starting to have trouble cranking so preemptively replaced it with an AGM. Located in TX so high heat.
 
241 - 260 of 467 Posts
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.