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Hmmm........Seems pretty obvious, why didn't I think of that?

OH- wait, thats why.......because its a sealed unit! There are no external seals...I guess maybe you can smash it open if you have day to kill ....big hammer, chisel - torch.......

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Backside, you may need to press the bearing completely out of the housing and all.
 
Use a dental pick to carefully pry out the black seal, most seals of this type are steel with rubber coating and can carefully be removed and reinstalled. Yes, but it's been awhile.
 
I don't think that's the case with this hub. There is thin layer of rubber with a pressed in steel insert under that. Same with the front. Would need something much more substantial then a dental pick. I may try and break it open over the weekend.

Judging form the immense amount of rust that held this into the arm, and all of the surface rust, I think water has penetrated the seals and compromised the unit.

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Don’t know if this is a bearing issue, but I’ll give it a shot.

Once my 14 XT goes above 40mph, I feel vibration under the accelerator and steering. It’s not a wobbling feeling, but like a phone vibration feel. My brakes were recently inspected and are fine. Wheel bearings issue or something else?
 
Probably something else. Wheel bearings you'll hear. I guess there are severe cases of wheel bearings coming so loose that the whole wheel has play in it, but I'm guessing it would be making a lot of noise if that was happening.


I'm guessing you have an alignment issue or even something stuck in your wheel that's throwing off the balance. Could also be a cracked bushing or suspension failure. I'm not a mechanic, so take these suggestions with a grain of salt, but you should get it checked out right away.
 
I’ve had the alignment done recently and can’t remember if I felt this vibration before. (I just got this car) I guess I’ll see if they can realign or something. I also saw on another thread that it could be the control arm bushings.
 
Plenty of grease, but that assembly is not coming apart for a full inspection.
Contamination in the grease.

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I’ve had the alignment done recently and can’t remember if I felt this vibration before. (I just got this car) I guess I’ll see if they can realign or something. I also saw on another thread that it could be the control arm bushings.
Most likely lca..just replaced the whole assembly on mine instead of dealing with pressing the bushings in and out...what you describe is how mine started out and then got significantly worse...ive also had all 4 bearings replaced and there's definitely a different vibration feel plus the bad bearings are more audible
 
Most likely lca..just replaced the whole assembly on mine instead of dealing with pressing the bushings in and out...what you describe is how mine started out and then got significantly worse...ive also had all 4 bearings replaced and there's definitely a different vibration feel plus the bad bearings are more audible
SPT At what mileage did you replace all 4 wheel bearings? Just curious.
 
SPT At what mileage did you replace all 4 wheel bearings? Just curious.
Various mileage but the first was around 35k...2nd and 3rd were around 55k and the 4th was around 90k..actually one of the ones thats already been replaced is sounding like its starting to go again currently at 104k...starting to think its me lol
 
I'm thankful for the help and information on this site. I just bought a used 14 Forester with 66,400 miles, and the rear end mud tire noise just started - very noticeable between 40 and 50 mph. I am not looking forward to possible rust issues taking things apart though. It sounds like Moog is fine for the rear, but not the front, is that correct?
Thanks!
 
Well, the Moog's worked just fine on the REAR. Nothing like taking 8 hours to do 2 hubs - man! Lots of PB Blaster and heat ended up finally working, but I had to beat the crap out of them. BUT, the sound of off road tires is gone now!
 
A fun way to spend a Saturday??

My 2015 2.5i MT with 71000 just started making that droning noise. Definitely coming from the back, not sure which side. Was all set to replace both until I started reading these posts. Living in the Northeast, I can assume the existing hubs are going to be a PITA to remove, but I can't see spending almost $1400 to have someone else do it.

My main question is, OEM, SKF, or Moog? Timken is out, as I've read many reports of these failing. Anyone with the SKF or Moog bearings have anything to report?

Any updates/advice are welcome! TIA.
 
Well, the driver's side took me 5 days of messing around with plumbers wrenches, pullers, air chisels, and the threat of high explosives. Then I broke down and bought the hub buster (or something like it) from CPE tool.

It was no one-shot miracle, but in 15 minutes, I had the old wheel bearing out of each side. For $90, it's worth it.

Couple of things - you will end up beating on the hub buster on the side opposite the strike plate. They should reinforce the whole end, but $$, I imagine.

I also ruined both of the dust covers on the ends of the CVs. One I was able to straighten, the other is a lost cause. Evidently, Subaru doesn't sell just this part, but will gleefully sell you the whole damn axle. Going to try to find one at a junk yard, or improvise something else.

Didn't even bother trying to get the old hubs out of the backing plates. I am just replacing them.

Putting them back in is not easy. First, I coated the inside of the knuckle with anti-seize. Then you need the hub bolts to pull the whole thing back into place. I ended up gradually torquing the hub bolts in a star pattern from finger tight, up to 48 in 5 ft/lb increments. Maybe I am being over cautious, but I don't want to do this again for a while!

Tomorrow, I get to put everything back together, and hope that the noise is gone!

Thank you to those who have posted in this thread with your experiences, tips and tricks!

B
 
2014 Forester XT - 108k miles (Started hearing it around 107k)

Could tell one of the rear wheel bearings were starting to go 40-60mph, turns out it was both rears. It was outside of the extended warranty which pissed me off (These things should last way longer then this), bought the Subaru OEM hubs myself and replaced them. If you live anywhere there is snow be prepared for it to be a very slow process trying to remove them.

Replacing all rotors/brakepads was beyond easy compared to this; I guess all I can say is take your sweet time and be ready to use some force. Good luck!
 
6 pages long, this is probably the longest going post in this section... and I'm about to prolong it myself...

'14 Forester with 71k miles, rear passenger side hub is feeling unhappy. I just bought a Moog hub and hope to replace it this weekend. I'm in south Texas, so hopefully hub isn't rusted and I can finish this in 2 hours.

Question, do I really need an alignment afterward?
 
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