2012 - DIY ► Clutch Service Guide - write up!

Even though it seems like people are doing their own work less and less lately I wanted to put this together for anyone who may need it.
Clutch service on a 2012 forester. I'm sure most of this applies to other Foresters and other Subarus but I'm not sure exactly which ones. What I am sure of is this is for the FB series Forester (2011-2012) although I doubt it would be much different for the same gen EJ series Forester (2009-2010).

This is what we are working with:

First: Start off by laying out all of the parts you will need: Clutch kit which will include the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Going with Exedy here because as I understand, they manufacture the OEM parts for Subaru anyway.
New flywheel. I could not find a 100% answer on this but I think the flywheel here is dual mass which means it is super hard to resurface properly. A new one is $$ but it will come with the new pilot bearing already installed so you won't have to worry about that.
I went with new OEM flywheel bolts. They are super cheap no reason not to.
Two new axle nuts
A new clutch fork just for peace of mind, the earlier Subarus had some issues with bending over time.
Spring clips for the clutch fork: Two to hold the throwout bearing on and one on the backside
A tube of OEM Niglube for lubrication areas
A new transmission drain plug and crush washer
And as an extra: Kartboy and TurnInConcepts shifter bushings.
New manifold to exhaust gasket
New exhaust donut gasket
New spring bolt set (They will most likely snap if they've been on there for a while)

Next: Disconnect your battery: Negative first, then positive. I like to crack my hatch open before doing this in case you want to get back there while working on the car.

Next: Remove your intake tube/box:
There are two 8mm hose clamps and one phillips head push pin retainer

You will also need to remove the breather hose located on the driver's side of the unit:

Next: disconnect the two electrical connectors on the passenger's side of the bellhousing. (These are reverse switch and neutral switch)

Then you need to unbolt the bracket altogether. It is held on with the 1st bellhousing bolt. When you remove these bolts, keep them in order as they are not all the same length. Then just tuck the connectors and bracket out of the way back toward the rear of the transmission

Then remove your pitch stop mount. Firewall side is just a bolt, transmission side is nut and bolt.

Then remove the grounding wire that was just above the firewall bolt for the pitch stop and tuck it back out of the way.

Next: unbolt the two bolts that hold your slave cylinder onto the bellhousing and tuck it out of the way.

Next unbolt the ground strap from the passenger side of the bellhousing by unbolting your second bellhousing bolt. This is also one of two bolts that hold your starter on which will be removed later.

Then remove the positive starter cable and tuck it out of the way:

Lastly for the work done from the engine bay, remove the last upper bellhousing bolt on the passenger side:

Next jack your car up. You can do the clutch job with the trans still under the car and in this case standard jack stands will work. If you plan on removing the transmission altogether you will need taller jack stands or build wooden risers for the stands. You want roughly 21-22 inches of clearance from the ground to pinch weld to just barely have room to roll the transmission out with the transmission jack I will be using
First start by removing your axle nuts. A powerful impact gun here will eliminate the need to un-stake the nut, just send it and wind it off.
Then drain your transmission fluid

Then on each side of the car remove these three bolts that secure your brake lines and ABS wire. This will give you more room to move stuff around without pulling on these:

Next we will be removing strut bolts. (Yes you can alternatively undo the bottom ball joint to accomplish the same this but here in upstate NY on a high mileage car you will most likely trash the ball joint if you can even get them out and IMO is a giant pain in the ass that is easy to avoid by undoing the strut)
Keep in mind that the top strut bolt is a camber adjustment bolt. Simply mark it with a paint pen so you can put it back the same way it came out. (You are probably fine afterword but bringing the car to an alignment shop after couldn't hurt)

Once those bolts are out you can tilt the kuckle down and turn it to give you just enough room to pull out the end of the CV shaft. (Obviously this is to be done on both sides of the car)

Next gently pry out the CV shafts. Be mindful here: You will need a good amount of force to pop it out but your transmission case is aluminum and if you go too crazy you could chip/crack it.