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@architect I believe that's where it's attached to the body. If you get under there, you can see where to place the jack stand.

On my floor jack, I always use a piece of 2x6 to cushion the contact point. When using a jack stand, many members use a hockey puck between then jack stand & the vehicle frame.

Bobby...

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but your diagram is showing the trailing link (1) as the alternative mount point right? In the Impreza forums, people have placed their jacks on the nearby plate (2). This is where I'm a bit lost because there's different opinions. I assume since everyone has placed their cars on the stands at these points (without the floor jack) then they are all viable.

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oh and for everybody..
my dads good friend hes worked with as a mechanic for 30+ years and becoming our family friend, after being "the safe guy" for many years, he went under the car to check something without stands. he was crushed and killed. This was a couple months ago

jack stands, blocks, anything to prevent the car from falling. Doesnt matter if you have done it many times without fail. That one time will cost you a life.
 
so the red boxs, ive been using the rear diff since you told me about the rear diff.
whats the front? front case?
The rear, as you noted, is the rear differential. The front lift point is NOT the case, it's the subframe brace. Disregard the black circles & "Bolts" note on the picture, that's for installing the front sway bar. The red square is where you place the floor jack. I always cushion the lift point with a piece of 2x6.

Bobby...
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but your diagram is showing the trailing link (1) as the alternative mount point right? In the Impreza forums, people have placed their jacks on the nearby plate (2). This is where I'm a bit lost because there's different opinions. I assume since everyone has placed their cars on the stands at these points (without the floor jack) then they are all viable.
Looking on your picture, that "plate" looks pretty thin to me?

Bobby...

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@2.5x_sleeper Can you confirmed where I circled on the diagram in red is what you suggest as a good jack point then? It also seems just like a flimsy link to me.

Again, I can't use the pinch welds at one corner since it's rusted through.
 
That "pinch weld" jacking point looks very weak, to the point that body integrity is compromised. However, the cross brace attachment point looks very solid as well as the trailing link mounting bracket. As others have recommended, I use a hockey puck or 2x6 to act as a saddle for the jack stand or floor jack. By the way, my 35 year old floor jack has never shown any sign of failing, but I like putting a wheel under the chassis after jacking as insurance.
 
I have found a few solid points on the subframe at the front of the car that work well, but there is certainly less options at the rear, as well as things to be more careful with (brake lines, gas tank etc). I have been doing exactly what @Kevin is talking about above.
 
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Another suggestion : having survived to just over 76-years, and having spent many thousands of hours under raised vehicles (of all types !) I'd recommend the use of the stands for a Safety Support: have heard of several its-good-enough folks, including my wife's younger cousin, who did not have a second chance to use extra supports !!!! Also ... when I use my stands, I always use a 5"x5" piece of 3/4" Dog-Eared-Fence Panel as a CRUSH-PLATE so there are no unexpected comprssion failures on any direct contact point with either the Jack ... or the Stands. Using this technique it is also possible to Jack/Support from/to parts that would not normally be safe to use ... just because the weight is spread over several square inches of normally-not-support materials, instead of over maybe 1/4"-Square ! Makes for a lot better sleep at night !!!!!
 
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What I would suggest is scoring a .pdf copy of the 2006 Forester Factory Service manual. There are multiple sources for the FSM online and, I believe, some are free of charge. If you're going to be doing DIY stuff on your Subie then this is a good resource for factual information. Even if you have to pay for a .pdf FSM the cost is usually minimal ...the advantage is you can print off what you need for the task at hand; I have one for my '11 Forester. Also included in the FSM are the proper jacking and support points for your model year Subaru; while many jack/support points maybe the same as follow on years some may not be. The big deal with modern automobiles is their uni-body construction; there isn't a separate frame ...the body is the frame. You can't assume certain suspension points or control arms are robust enough to support the weight of the vehicle. You can do significant damage to the car if you try to support it in a non-weight bearing area. IMHO, guessing is not a good thing nor is listening to others "theories" about what should work. The FSM will have the factory approved support points that are designed to carry the weight of the vehicle. However, given the rust on your car you may find it impossible to use jack stands. One poster mentioned using the suspension plate shown in the first picture; problem with that is you have no idea how much the body structure has been compromised by the adjacent rust at the jack/support point.

Safety is paramount whenever you support a vehicle on stands and, especially, if you intend to get under the vehicle. Do not use floor jacks to support the vehicle. I've been working on my vehicles for the last 45+ years; it is one of the pillars of safety to NEVER get under a vehicle supported either solely or partially by a floor jack. IMHO that's just flat stupid.

You didn't mention what it is you're intending to do on your Forester in your post. There are alternatives to using jack stands ...especially when the body structure of your Subaru has been compromised by rust. For instance, if you're going to do your own oil changes then you can use a set of ramps to raise the car. The beauty of ramps is you don't need to worry about jack stands and support points. You can raise both the front or the back using a pair of ramps. You may even be able to raise one corner of the car with one ramp. You can use ramps in conjunction with jack stands. So if your rear jack/support points are toast but the fronts are still good you can use ramps to lift the rear and stands to hold up the front.

The rust on your car is the big unknown. Jacking a "healthy" uni-body vehicle must be done with care using the specific points; throwing in a heavily rusted body can make this task a real crap shoot. In the end, there may be jobs you cannot do because of the rust and will have to rely on the pros to deal with it.
 
Thanks for the response and I do have the service manual and they all point to the pinch weld areas for jack stands. I'm trying to change tirea and remove the rear mud flaps. I do have ramps that I will use for oil change.

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trying to jack up my forester but have realized the slight problem that is idk what the jack points are, I’m doing it from the front, I believe this is it however like I said, I don’t know, someone here probably does though
Image
 
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