('03-'05) P0442 error code - SOLVED! - Page 2 - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 10:48 AM
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Good walkthrough by the OP.
Not to bump an old thread but I have also had P0442 that only comes up in cold weather and will recur if the code is reset. Another issue which may have been related which I wasn't sure at the time, was after filling at the gas station, (not OVERfilling), the car would almost / sometimes stall out immediately when turning on the engine. Did quite a bit of research online, it definitely was not the fuel filler neck / cap as those were previously replaced two years ago (that issue was confirmed with a smoke check and fixed). I was concerned it was from overfills (past the click) and that the charcoal canister would have needed replacing.

I did want to share another solution with this. Brought the car to 'my guy' (i.e.: subie specialist tech) who said it's a common problem. Both Purge Control Solenoids were replaced (two on XT models, one on NA models), and problem has been solved. 500km so far and has not yet returned, several fill ups and no issues.

Another factor for someone to look into if coming up with this issue. Thought I'd update the thread with my own experience.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 05:30 PM
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My fix - used a short cut on my 2005 Forester

This was a great thread and a great post by the OP. Thanks. It helped me greatly.

I took a shortcut. My 2005 Forester failed inspection because of P0442. That was January in NH (today is early May), and this being one of my too many cars, I waited for warmer weather to worry about this fix. I turned the code off a few times, but it came back reliably.

First observation - people on forums say that the most common cause is a bad gas cap, but nobody ever seems to post and say "yeah, it was my gas cap." A few posters say "I wasted money on a new gas cap." Obviously, check your gas cap, but I call BS on the notion that that is the common cause of P0442.

I did not feel like figuring out how to deliver 12V to whatever to turn off the frazamstrasm, as the OP did. I carefully inspected everything under the hood, and everything looked peachy. Nothing had been done work-wise to my fuel pump or gas tank area in living memory, but I dug into the rear area and visually inspected that. It looked pristine too.

I did not take off the rear wheel because it is rusted on. I jacked up the car and had enough room to work (similar to others' comments).

I unscrewed the central screw fitting on the plastic piece inside the right rear wheel well (13mm I think). Actually, the fitting let go (metal holding the nut failed). I tried to get the bottom fitting to let go but it did not want to. No problem, the plastic liner had lots of flex and moved out of the way. As others have reported, lots of sand and crud came down (some on me while I worked on that bottom fitting). No rust on the filler neck except for five inches at the top.

I found a short bit of tubing, and punched a hole in a plastic bag and stuck the tube through. I used rubber bands to seal tube to the bag and to seal the bag to the gas filler outlet, with the tube extending through the flapper valve in the filler neck. I blew into the tube. I heard bubbling in the gas tank, as my blowing resulted in air going in (only a mild increase in pressure). But, it was enough pressure so that, when I reached my hand up into the wheel well to the top of the filler neck, I could feel some air coming through (kind of a tiny cool breeze on my hand). There is a small thingy on top of the neck, I believe it is the rollover valve or some such.

I bought some permatex "Form a Gasket Sealant," number 1 (hard setting). My local Hardware store owner suggested it, after I explained the problem. He is not the last word on fixing things, but this seemed reasonable. $5. I slathered it all around on the rollover valve. The thing looks like a sandwich of something, and the leak seemed to be out the side. I let everything dry for a few days, cause it was rainy and 45 degrees. I drilled two holes in the plastic cover and threaded a long tie-wrap through and up over the filler neck to resecure the cover, given that the mounting nut bracket was now broken and gone.

Took a long drive today (errands in a town 30 miles away) and for the first time in 6 months the Evap system checked positive for ready. I can now pass inspection here in Cow Hampshire. My fix may fail sooner or later, but the filler neck appears easy to replace and the parts cost looks to be $70, so next step is to do that.

Total time - 5 hours reading forums like this for six months. 1 hour staring at stuff under the hood, gas cap (quite pristine), looking underneath, etc. 1 hour tearing crap out of the rear interior and unscrewing plates and looking at gas tank then putting it back together. Should have left all that for next step if filler neck inspection failed. 1.75 hours on the filler neck process (inventing tube blower kluge, doing it, and slathering stuff on the filler neck and rollover valve). This also included 30 minutes wasted trying to get the rusted wheel off and time wasted trying to find tools. 45 minutes at the hardware store reading labels of stuff and talking to my pal (mostly unrelated town stuff). Total cost - $5.

So, knowing what I know now - inspect gas cap, inspect under hood for broken lines or plastic fittings, jack up car with wheel on and remove 13mm bolt from plastic cover in rear wheel, visually inspect filler neck (need flashlight), kluge up way to blow air into gas tank port with a seal on it, feel behind for leaks as you blow, if you find one slather on Form-a-Gasket No. 1 stuff.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 08:41 PM
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i have had the 0422 for a while
now, about a year or so ago i had it smoked tested and the mechanic said he could not find a leak. any suggestions as to where to start looking or what to replace? maybe a smoke test a year later would show the leak. it's a system evap large leak.


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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 05:41 AM
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Reviving this old thread yet again as it's still relevant.

I took my faithful '03 XS to the dealer for his opinion on the p0442 code that is stopping me from passing inspection is NJ.

$130 + tax later he claims it is the Vent Valve on top of the fuel tank. From all the threads I've read, I didn't see anyone mention this valve as the cause. All threads point to the filler neck and other canister valves. Of course the fuel tank vent valve is the last thing anyone would want to replace as it's in the worst place possible; on top of the fuel tank. His cost estimate to replace this valve was over $1300. And that didn't cover, as he called it, "possible" breakage of rusted parts in the process of getting to the tank. I'm sure my exhaust system would be the first casualty.

I'm taking it to another dealer for a second opinion. Then I'll decide what to do. I may try to check the filler neck check as was mentioned here as this seems the most plausible, all things considered.

to be continued.......

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 03:41 PM
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@CadZan perhaps this will help with your troubleshooting.

As to drive cycles for sensors to show ready, take a look at this thread: Drive Cycles - how long till sensors show ready? - SOLVED!

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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CadZan View Post
Reviving this old thread yet again as it's still relevant.

I took my faithful '03 XS to the dealer for his opinion on the p0442 code that is stopping me from passing inspection is NJ.

$130 + tax later he claims it is the Vent Valve on top of the fuel tank. From all the threads I've read, I didn't see anyone mention this valve as the cause. All threads point to the filler neck and other canister valves. Of course the fuel tank vent valve is the last thing anyone would want to replace as it's in the worst place possible; on top of the fuel tank. His cost estimate to replace this valve was over $1300. And that didn't cover, as he called it, "possible" breakage of rusted parts in the process of getting to the tank. I'm sure my exhaust system would be the first casualty.

I'm taking it to another dealer for a second opinion. Then I'll decide what to do. I may try to check the filler neck check as was mentioned here as this seems the most plausible, all things considered.

to be continued.......
Eager to hear if you got any better news from the second dealer.

I have a 2004 Forester XS that received a similar diagnosis from the Sube dealer. Codes P0442, P0457, and P0519 were found. Smoke was seen at top of gas tank during smoke test.

Dealer says gas tank must be dropped ($525+) to determine exactly where leak is. At that point he recommends replacing the gas tank and all associated valves -- total cost around $2k.

I have until the end of May, when next inspection due, to fix this. In spite of the dealer finding smoke at the gas tank, I'm going to check the filler neck to see if it's rusted out, in a last ditch effort.

Very frustrating because this car, which we bought new, only has 84k miles and runs/looks great. Given its age and the potential for other big ticket items, sadly, the end of the road may be approaching soon for it.

Last edited by Fortunado; 04-13-2019 at 09:00 AM.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:34 PM
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I had the P0422 code for 6 months, and had searched several forums. I had already replaced the gas cap, with no luck. Today, i found one that addressed the issue I had - and sharing to the extent that it may help someone else. In the front engine compartment, there was a hose disconnected from a blue nipple. This has been noted on another forum as the cause for others to have the P0442 code. See pictures included below. The hose is just to the left of the center of engine, looking at it from the front top. If you follow the hose (on the bottom of the circular object in the 1st pic) you will find it connects to a blue nipple (2nd pic)- this was not attached. I reattached it.
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fortunado View Post
Eager to hear if you got any better news from the second dealer.
Actually, I didn't go to a second dealer, but to a trusted mechanic who I've used numerous times for other vehicles. I've had my fill of dealers for the moment.

He smoked the system and found a leak by the filler neck. He replaced the filler neck and the filler neck shutoff valve. He said he "didn't like the way the shutoff valve looked" so he replaced it too.

Having said that and having the old filler neck & shutoff valve to look at, I believe it was only the shutoff valve. I plan to plug off the filler neck connections and pressurize the assembly as soon as I get a chance. As like I said, I don't think it was the neck, not enough rust on it. But the mating surface of the neck flange & shutoff valve was very rusty and that may have been the leaking surface.

I did pressure test the shutoff valve and it leaked whether it was open or closed. More so in one position than the other, but leaked still the same.

The mechanic reset the code (p0442) and I'm driving it trying to reset the monitors. As I understand it, I can pass NJ inspection with one monitor in the "not ready" state. So I'll go to inspection as soon as I get them down to 1.

I won't list his price as costs are different everywhere you go, but it was significantly less than the dealer. Of course, the job was different too, so no real comparison anyway. It was 2 1/2 hrs labor/diagnosis and he used all Subaru parts. <-- so not cheap there.

edit: 4/25/19

So I passed NJ inspection. I had (1) monitor "not ready", the Evap monitor. That monitor refused to set no matter how I drove the car, stop&go, highway cruise, slow down/speed up, didn't matter. I put 800 miles on it and nothing I tried, did it. I read numerous threads & googles telling me what drive cycle would do it, nothing worked. But in NJ, they do not fail you if the Evap monitor is incomplete. That incomplete however is your (1) monitor "grace". You can't have anyone else incomplete (2001 & up). But you must have the O2 & the Converter monitors set as those are the ones they are really interested in. I got those to set in a 15 min loop from work with 10 min of highway at 50mph and 5 min of ramps & stoplights. So I'm good for 2 years & the Evap monitor still isn't set. lol

edit: 5/1/19 - added some pictures.
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Last edited by CadZan; 05-01-2019 at 06:55 AM.
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 10:34 AM
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@CadZan thank you for updating your post with your solution! I'm sure it will help the next member that happens across this thread!

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