('09-'13) 2011 xt turbo rebuild question? - Updated! - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 04:42 AM Thread Starter
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2011 xt turbo rebuild question? - Updated!

I was wondering if anyone has successfully rebuilt their own turbos? How hard is it ? Or am I better off buying a new one? Why does the price fluctuate so much when going to purchase a new turbo?

Update I had a chance today to tear into my Subaru, the turbo is completely trashed. The nut for the compressor wheel is gone ..... And some of the blades are chewed up. I think I am going to order a Complete turbo from Rock Auto and 2 new oil control valves/ variable camshaft timing solenoids, my next question is once I replace the Turbo and the valves and do a Oil change is it safe to assume assume the P0011 will be taken care of? I did not find any metal shavings.oil level is good and appears to be pretty clean.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 03:38 PM
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Save your money for a new engine. You're going to need it very soon.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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I have only owned the car for a week..... that is terrible news
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 04:50 PM
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Sadly this story plays out the same way virtually every time. Metal shavings and likely that nut went through the engine doing damage and there are filter screens in relatively inaccessible areas that get clogged from the turbos bearing that are in the oil that you may not see. Sooner rather than later you'll likely find the damaged present itself. Not much that can be done to stop it short of massive tear down to replace lines, screens, pickup, oil pan, basically anything that can hold onto metal.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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@Scooby24 I understand how metal shavings can get in the oil but how would that nut get past the intercooler?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Well today I decided to look into my problem more, I found the nut that came off the cold side impeller which makes me very happy, I removed the 2 oil control valves I didn't find any material on neither one of them, so I decided to bench test them both they both seem to move freely so I am not sure what else I should be looking for as far as trying to figure out what the problem was with the one that threw the fault code, I drained the oil let it settle for a half hour then took a very strong magnet then slowly moved it across the bottom of the pan I didn't get hardly any metal shavings on the magnet which is obviously a good sign, so next I took that magnet and stuck it in the oil drain plug hole and I was able to sweep the inside of oil pan with that also pulled it out and found almost no metal shavings, next I removed the banjo bolt at the back of the right side cylinder head and found one of those screens once again no sludge and no metal shavings, I have a couple more questions, my first one is so far I have found three banjo bolts 2 in the oil control valves and one in the back of the cylinder head, how many more banjo bolts with screens are there? Secondly how do you test those oil control valves? I plan on trying to flush
All the oil lines I can and pulling the oil pan, so do you guys think I got lucky and the engine will be okay for the long haul?

Also are there more banjo bolts with screens I should be looking for?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 04:59 PM
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The oil feed lines you were able to access at the head have banjo bolts not accessible without removing timing belt and cam covers and there are screens there. No metal shavings there does seem promising but as far as your magnet test those turbo bearings are brass so they are not magnetic. However if that material was loose and damaging rod bearings the lead would be. Hopefully the oil filter caught it all and you may get lucky...but I would personally feel a whole lot better getting those screens out of the feed lines to be sure they aren't clogged.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your insight, I really don't want to tear the car that far down but I'm going to do it anyways.... I definitely have more time than money, I am also considering replacing the oil pump while I am in there
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:07 PM
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Drop the oil pan and check for metal bits before you do much more.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Today I dropped the oil pan, very disappointed it looks like a ****ing glitter factory, my next question is does Subaru use a actual gasket for the oil pan or do they use black RTV? I am just curious if someone had there fingers in here once before because it only had black RTV......

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:11 PM
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@U.P. Forester Subaru uses a liquid gasket, THREE BOND 1217G (Part No. K0877Y0100) or equivalent. It's not an easy task to get the surfaces oil free in preparation for the RTV!

Also...
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['07 FSXT MODding Journal] ['03 X MODding Journal]

'07 FSXT - COBB Surgeline dyno stock Protune - Stage 1+
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:26 PM
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Black rtv from the factory. You'll probably want a new pan rather than trying to clean out the old. They are around a hundred bucks if memory serves. Bummer to hear about the glitter. You're taking steps now that most don't so keep your head up...maybe your story won't be the same as many others that don't do these things.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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What is the best way to get a oil pressure reading on these engines? I am very close to starting this engine after the catastrophic failure......
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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I put everything back together cleared the codes before I drove it, I put a fresh oil change in it ran the car for 20 minutes in the shop, dumped the oil and filter put another fresh oil change in it and took the car for a test drive it sounded good and ran good, I got the car home no check engine so I decided to look into pending codes and unfortunately the P0011&P0021 sitting there waiting to come on, I didn't take the banjo bolt screen out that is behind the intake cam and I didn't clean the avcs, I did pull the screen out that goes to the turbo and I installed a new turbo and dropped the pan cleaned it out and cleaned the oil pick up tube, so my question is do you think I just need to pull the avcs units and clean them and then remove that banjo bolt screen while I am in there or is there something I am over looking? I think I can save this engine with the way it felt on my test drive
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