('98-'00) P1520: Coolant Fan Relay 1 High Input. - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-26-2015, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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P1520: Coolant Fan Relay 1 High Input.

Got my CEL code read today and Ms Subie is throwing a P1520.

Coolant Fan Relay 1 High Input. Great.

What I found is that the code means that either the coolant fan relay is junk, the fan relay harness is "open or shorted", or there's a poor electrical connection.

The symptoms I'm seeing beyond the CEL is that the fans don't turn on (could be that it's cool outside) unless I have the AC switched on, and then only the passenger-side fan spins.

What I've done so far is trade out a known working relay (headlights) with the problem relay, which told me the fan relay is fine (the relay lit the headlights normally).

I looked up the wiring diagram which tells me each fan circuit has 5 wires, 1) a fused, hot wire, 2) a wire from the ECM that switches the relay on when the ac is on or when the engine is hot, 3) a wire from the relay to the fan, 4) another hot wire fused inside the car (fuses 17,18 for sub and main fan, respectively) and finally 5) a ground wire from the fan.

I tested all the wires:
1) showed up as ~14v -Normal?
2) showed up as 0v without AC on, need to test it tomorrow with it on
3) showed up as 0v -Normal.
4) showed up as ~14v -Normal?
5) is a ground, no test necessary.

I tested the continuity of wires 1, 3, and 4 and they're all connected as they should be (from the relay to the fuse box or fan)

I haven't tested anything to the ECM, I will turn on the AC tomorrow and conduct some more tests.

I haven't tested the fan. Is it possible to test if the fan is working with a multimeter? or would it be easiest to wire the fan to the battery directly to see if it's faulty? The fan assembly is quite rusty, but the plastic blades spin freely by hand.

I've been able to find this post on the Outback forum that's helped a bit, but I'm still lost.

Maybe I could double check that the fan is grounded properly, if needed, can I just wire a ground directly from the faulty fan to the chassis? or will this cause issues?

Any tips?

Thanks in advance!

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-27-2015, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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Any electricians on the forum? Anybody ever pull a p1520 code?

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-31-2015, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Anybody?
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-31-2015, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

The sub fan (passenger side) runs when the temp goes up or if the ac is on.

the problematic main fan runs when I jump the relay, so the fan is good.

Any ideas?

I found a new ecu for 50 bucks so I'll try that.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-31-2015, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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The new ECM did the trick. The swap took 5 minutes. Once I plugged the new one in, I turned on the ac and both fans fired right up. I drove it uphill for a few minutes and they turned on low, then high, as they should.

In case somebody else ever has this issue, this was my process:

0. CEL checked, p1520 - Coolant Fan Relay 1 High Input.. Upon further inspection the drivers side (main) radiator fan wasn't working with the ac or high engine temps. Great.

1. Swapped the problematic relay with a known working one. The problematic relay fired up the headlights as they should, and the working relay didn't get the fan to work.This ruled out a faulty relay

2. Jumped the relay connections to rule out a broken fan. The way you do this for the 98 Forester is you locate the fuse box in the engine bay. Read the label and find the faulty relay, in this case it's in the AC cluster, labeled "main fan". The relay has 4 connections, in sort of a T shape.

If you're wondering the 4 connections for this relay are as follows, from the bottom of the "T" (numbering is from the wiring diagram I used):

25) Line directly to the fan
26) 12v fused from battery
27) Signal from ECM
28) Line to AC fuse in the car.

In this case, you jump 25 to 26 giving the fan power from the battery. In my case, the fan fired up, so that ruled out a broken fan, and also confirmed the wiring from the relay to the fan is fine and to the battery is fine.

3. Check the continuity between the ECM and the relay. (The ECM is located under the pssenger carpet u see a metal kick plate. 3 bolts and a nut takes off the kick plate to access it.) I plugged a 3ft length of wire to the 27 lead and used my volt meter to check the red and light-blue wire on the ECM (third from the left on the top row of the ECM harness (which is plugged in in an upside down position on the ECM.) The volt meter hummed confirming the wiring between the relay and the ECM is fine.

4. (Credit to cardoc on subaruoutback.org for this info) Back-probe the ECM to check for proper voltage. Use a paper clip and carefully stick it into where the red and light blue wire comes out of the ECM harness.

When the radiator fans are triggered by the ECM because of high temps, the voltage from the ECM should change between 0-10v. If there's a change, ECM is fine. If not, further testing required.

Turn ignition to off and remove BOTH fan relays (sub fan and main fan), turn the key back to on and retest. If you get a reading more than 10v, the ECM is fried.

If not, test the resistance on the problematic fan relay itself, less than 1ohm, replace the relay and the ECM is likely fried. If more than 1ohm, test the other fan relay in the same way and replace if needed.

If you pass every test, replace the ECM and see if that fixes things.

I personally got a high voltage with the relay out (hence the p1520 high input code) so I replaced the ECM and voila!

Links:

Wiring diagram (labeled page 60, actually page 49 of the PDF shows the fan wiring):

https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...-diagram_1.pdf

Testing procedures (cardoc's post on page 2, right at the top):

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...s/66466?page=2

Last edited by kberube; 03-31-2015 at 07:02 PM.
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