('14-'18) Pads Stuck in Clips/Bracket and Rotor Rust? - Updated! - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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Pads Stuck in Clips/Bracket and Rotor Rust? - Updated!

My 18 is at 17500 miles. I'm noticing a weird clunk coming from the front end when I have the brakes pressed and turn the wheels. When I was changing out my snow tires to the factory tires, I noticed that all 4 sets of pads were hung up in the anti rattle clips. Pretty sure this is the cause of the clunk.

Is this a common occurrence on these cars? Are there better quality pads that don't have this happen? My F-350 does this, but since it's a work truck and not a DD, I just don't install the anti-rattle clips and let the brake pads chatter over bumps. Don't quite want that on my Forester.

Also noticing the rear rotors are starting to get rusty. I don't want to buy a set of rear rotors every 20K for the car, so I'm wondering if anyone has ever taken a flapdisc to clean them up before? I have done it on front rotors on other vehicles before and on the back of my F-350, but those were all much more substantial rotors. I don't really want to use a grinder disc on it since that can remove too much material and throw off the balance.


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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 03:06 PM
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I'm not aware of any particular problem with the brakes. I guess it's possible that things are stuck due to the large amount of salt they must use on the roads in upstate NY. I recently did my brakes and used brake lube on the caliper bracket where the hardware sits and also on the brake side of the hardware. Also wire brushed the same part of the caliper bracket. Everything is quiet. I don't think the brand matters but I used Powerstop pads and rotors.

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Last edited by Frank's subie; 04-24-2019 at 03:51 PM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 06:02 AM
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You live in an area prone to corrosion. You should pull apart your brakes on all 4 cornors at least once a year and clean them. Use copper grease and slide pin lube. No need to grind off the rust just a light sanding or a wire brush. Use brake clean as well. OEM pads are my favorite as they are rotor friendly and come with all the hardware.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well it took a few hours but back in business and good as new! At least in the back.

Pulled the calipers and brackets off. Wire wheeled everything. Cleaned up the anti rattle clips and took a file to the ears on the pads - it looks like the ears on the pads swelled up a bit with corrosion and jammed in the bracket. Applied silicone lube to where the pads sit in the bracket, the caliper piston where it touches the pad and the sliders. And I took the wheel bearings out a few hairs and sprayed some lithium grease in the bore of the knuckle.

The rotor is still good, but I did have to take some 80 grit sand paper on a piece of lumber to knock the rust off from the pads being jammed and not applying even.

I'll pull the front apart this week hopefully and do the same.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 07:01 PM
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I like to use copper anti seize on the brake shims and 3M silicone paste on the caliper slide pins. Keeps everything smooth and quiet. I do check them once or twice a year to make sure everything is in order. I live in New Jersey and they like to use a lot of salt in the winter.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 07:52 AM
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Sounds like you did a great job. My plan is to always get new hardware when doing brakes and lube everything.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLEMMER View Post
You should pull apart your brakes on all 4 cornors at least once a year and clean them. Use copper grease and slide pin lube. No need to grind off the rust just a light sanding or a wire brush. Use brake clean as well. OEM pads are my favorite as they are rotor friendly and come with all the hardware.
Agreed, too much salt on the roads omg. I've used this on the disc pad pins etc. for years, works great.



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Originally Posted by Frank's subie View Post
My plan is to always get new hardware when doing brakes and lube everything.
That's what I've always done, cheap insurance.
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