Edit: UPDATE: Other users have found an easier way to do this project. Please read the entire thread before deciding how to tackle this project. My solution is not one that I'd use.
The following thread serves to document the process on how I installed front and rear Brembos on my 2015 XT.
DISCLAIMER: I DO NOT ADVOCATE OR ADVISE ANY MODIFICATION TO YOUR BRAKING SYSTEM. ANY MODIFICATION IS AT YOUR OWN RISK, AND I TAKE ZERO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ATTEMPT TO PERFORM THE FOLLOWING MODIFICATION. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
Ok, now that that's out of the way, here's the basics on what you'll need.
1. A complete set of STI Brembos from 2008 - 2016 with all pins and hardware (Black with STI lettering. I have not confirmed fitment of the 04-07 Gold Brembos or the 2018 Green Brembos)
2. Front and rear brake rotors (More on this in a minute)
3. Front and rear brake pads for Brembos
3. STI caliper bolts (Part #s
901120103 (Front) and 901000326 (Rear) - 4 of each)
4. Extended studs with compatible lug nuts (HIGHLY recomended)
5. Brake lines - Stainless Steel recommended, for Brembos
6. Brake Fluid
7. 5mm Hubcentric spacers (more on this later)
8. Wheels that clear Brembos!
9. Jack and jack stands
10. A trusted machine shop
11. Various tools, including a socket set (14mm, 17mm, and 32mm stick out here), metal grinder/cutters, a 10mm flar nut wrench (super important), a C clamp, etc etc
12. A fridge stocked with cold beers for you and the friends you rope into helping you.
To start, youíll want to get your XT up on jack stands. Make sure the car is level, as itíll be better when youíre all done and need to bleed all the brakes. Use the proper jack points and jack stand positions, shown here:
And remove your wheels to gain access to your brakes. The removal of your stock brakes is pretty straight forward, so I wonít get into that. Just keep in mind that when you remove your brake line from the stock calipers, fluid WILL leak out, so try not to make a mess. Youíll need that 10mm flare nut wrench to remove the brake line from the hard line. Donít try this with a normal wrench, or youíll hate yourself in about 5 minutes when you strip the crap out of the connector. Work smarter, not harder. You can go ahead and connect your new lines now if youíd like. Just tuck them aside until later. I used Goodridge lines, part # 24219-CL.
Now that youíve got the stock brakes out of the way, youíre ready to start getting those shiny new parts on. Weíll start with the front, as itís much easier. Personally, I used DBA rotors for the front, specifically part # DBA654S-10**. You could also use STI rotors, but youíll have to get them re-drilled to 5x100.
Now is the time to add those extended studs. Donít do what I did, and get everything all together, only to realize that youíve only got about 5 turns on your lug nuts. Safety first, get extended studs. You can hammer out the studs without removing the hubs, by bending the shield slightly out of the way. If you want to hold onto the stock studs, make sure you use an old lug nut and hit that, NOT the stud, as youíll mushroom the stud by hitting it directly. Take out the old studs, and add in your new ones. I used ARP studs, as their quality is well known. Part # 100-7716. Once the new studs are in, make sure they are properly seated using an impact gun.
Once the studs are on, go ahead and grab your rotor. Clean the braking surfaces with brake cleaner, and put them in place. Take a look at the dust shield, making sure yours isnít touching the rotor. If it does, gently persuade it not to with a hammer. With that in place, itís time to add your caliper. Make sure youíve depressed the pistons back into the caliper prior to this, as itís a lot easier to do BEFORE itís on the car. This will make it easier to slide the pads in after itís mounted. Also keep in mind that the bleeder should be facing UP, not down. Use the caliper bolts (Part # 901120103) to attach the calipers to your stock mounting points. The SJ bolts WILL NOT work, as the thread pitch is different. Tighten them to 80 ft/lbs. DO NOT overtighten these bolts. They tend to break, getting stuck inside the caliper. Save yourself the trouble later by using a torque wrench. Once the caliper is mounted, slide in you brake pads, and put the pins and plates in place. Attach the brake line to the caliper, ensuring you are adding new washers as well. These come in the Goodridge kit. After that, youíll all done!