('01-'02) Radiator and Overflow - How screwed am I? - Updated! - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator and Overflow - How screwed am I? - Updated!

Did some searching and found a few threads that might indicate I have problem with my purchase....

I topped off my radiator fluid this morning, checked the overflow, and did about a 30 mile drive. When I came back, I popped the hood and let the car cool down for about an hour before I checked the radiator again. It looks like the overflow took the coolant as expected, but didn't get siphoned back in to the radiator when it cooled off. I cant find any leaks under the car, no water in the oil, no water drips marks from where it sat over night. It ran cool on my drive, and stayed cool while sitting in drive-thru for a soda.

How screwed am I? I'm going to feel like an idiot if I got hosed, hahaha!

Time to take a break and work on other projects and will do more research on this later.


Thanks!

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 01:40 PM
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Did you buy an OEM replacement or aftermarket?
Anyways it looks like you have to burp the cooling system.
Another thought - did you replace the radiator cap as well?

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 02:10 PM
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warm it all the way up and let it cool down overnight, an hour is not much time,
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks you, thank you.

Ill stop and get a new radiator cap tomorrow and look up to see if there are any special techniques to burping the coolant system.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Found my OBD2 reader this afternoon and did read a P0136 02 sensor (bank 1, sensor 2) and P0128 coolant thermostat malfunction. So I'll start out with a thermostat change since I did notice a long warmup this morning when I headed out for my drive. After thermostat, Ill figure out which O2 to replace and hope that cures that one so I don't have to by a new cat!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 07:12 PM
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Try pulling the overflow hose out of the container and cutting it at a 45 degree angle. Also put a zip tie around the hose where it attaches to the radiator.

Also make sure you get a Subaru OEM thermostat and rad cap.

Bank 1 Sensor 2 is the rear O2 sensor.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 03:34 AM
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I'm having the same issue just replaced radiator burped the system with the correct tool but I check my overflow bottle every weekend and the overflow bottle is empty just changed rad cap and re-burped the system today can anyone tell me what's going on
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 06:20 AM
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Replace cap with OEM. When vehicle is cold remove cap fill to top. Check next time when cold and do the same thing.

Be careful what you wish for.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbloke View Post
I'm having the same issue just replaced radiator burped the system with the correct tool but I check my overflow bottle every weekend and the overflow bottle is empty just changed rad cap and re-burped the system today can anyone tell me what's going on
Keep us posted, thank you.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 03:32 PM
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As long as the gauge or dash light didn't indicate an overheat condition then you're fine.

The correct way to service your coolant level on a closed radiator is to use the recovery or expansion tank.

Initially, fill the radiator to the bottom of the filler neck.

Put the cap back on and fill the expansion tank to the "COLD" or "MIN" level. If you have the owners manual check what they recommend; some carmakers will have you fill the tank to the "HOT" or "MAX" level.

Drive the car normally and let cool. Once the engine is cold check the coolant level in the tank; if it's empty, then add more up the the "COLD" level (or as your owners manual says to do). Now, if there's coolant visible but low, add coolant to the "COLD" level (or as directed by your owners manual). Do not keep opening the radiator cap ...just add more coolant to the expansion tank as needed

You keep doing this until the coolant level sits at the "COLD" level.

Once the level in the expansion tank stabilizes then you've filled the system; you should only have to add coolant to the expansion tank to compensate for evaporation or seasonal weather changes (the temperature gets colder, you'll probably have to add a bit more coolant to top it off).


Mike
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thank so for the additional tip! Looks like this weekend will just be oil change, and next weekend a coolant change. With summer upon us, yard work rules most of my weekend!
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Late reply since so many other projects at home.

Drained the coolant this weekend to find that the thermostat body had been cut out and only the flat disk portion and gasket were installed. This is/was probably the reason for the P0128 error code. Also wondering if this as done to mask a head gasket issue. Didn’t see oil in the coolant, or water in the oil, and it does run pretty smooth and quiet, so hopefully this indicates that it wasn’t overheated and warped the heads.

At this point, going to wait a couple more months until I have the cash for a head gasket and timing belt job done at All Wheel Drive Auto. A little disappointed if I could have spotted this while buying, but still enjoying it.

Lots of good info on this forum, been lurking around and reading.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 02:46 PM
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There are idiots out there that will try and fix an overheating vehicle that way. Unless it was a bad thermostat, it does not work. Also idiots that think a cooler running engine is better....

I am thinking about just how no longer having a thermostat would affect various HG issues, in particular a cylinder to coolant passage combustion leak.... Having constant circulation of coolant might actually keep the exhaust gasses from building up excessively in one location in the coolant passages (which could occur when an engine is still cold and the thermostat is closed)...

Guess you won't know till you replace and see what happens. After you are sure that you've burped all the air out (the Lisle radiator funnel is a totally cool useful tool when dealing with radiators that are hard to burp, and/or maybe putting exhaust gasses into the coolant), then see if you are getting bubbles into the coolant overflow tank when you run it hard. If the car is not hot, but its bubbling into the tank, that's a dead givaway for a HG leak from cylinder to coolant passage.

05 Forester x, 14 Prius, 12 Leaf, 65 Ford F100

Last edited by Kevin; 07-07-2019 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Unnecessary use of Quote
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