('09-'13) '10 Forester X Limited Lift Options - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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'10 Forester X Limited Lift Options

I have already put KYB G Excel struts and RalliTek Lift Springs (.25" front & .5" overload on back). I just received the 2" lift spacer kit w/ subframe spacers included from RalliTek and will put that on when I decide on my wheel and tire setup.


1.) Is there anything else I need to think about as far as the lift modifications go? I've read 2" is as high as you should go on a Forester without having to do more mods. Did the people at RalliTek steer me in the wrong direction with the lift springs since I got the 2" spacers? I really don't want to spend more money on mods if I can get away with it. Thoughts?


2.) I've been debating which wheel and tire setup to get. First I was thinking, Sparco Terra 16" wheels and with BF Goodrich KO2s 215/65/16s. However, my finances have taken a hit and slowed my money towards this build. Which has made me wonder if I could get away with keeping the stock wheels (17") and putting the 225/65/17 BFG KO2s on them? I'm thinking they may be too big and won't have the clearance between the tire and the body or the clearance between the tire and the strut cup? Thoughts?

Thank you in advance! Much appreciated.


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 01:40 AM
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I installed a 1" spacer lift on my 2010 without disconnecting any suspension parts like trailing arms. Getting a 2" lift in the rear will be a challenge and the sub-frame spacers are a must to keep the rear wheel centered in the well. Maybe disconnecting the trailing arms will make it easier to get the droop needed to install the struts with the spacers. After doing a 1", seems like 2" would put a lot more stress on the bushings and CV joints long term.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 06:56 PM
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Been doing a bunch of research. I have a ‘10 x 5 sp. The front is a no brainer. Unless you go to large on tire/wheel (spring perch) the cv/axel and a-arm becomes a concern over 2-1/2”. The rear the issue is wheel alignment fore/aft when you lift without spacing the subframe. The tire pushes way forward in the well. Again 2-1/2” before things get goofy. I recently pulled the trigger on a set of Terra SE and some Coopers. 16” from a factory 17 tires are 215/70-16. Fit stock height with no issues'10 Forester X Limited Lift Options-4ba725b7-a6a1-4971-906a-a5653f87e760.jpeg

'10 Forester X Limited Lift Options-75eda6c4-a4e4-4265-a801-70d83d5dcec7.jpeg
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 08:44 AM
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225/65-17 is roughly 28.5"

I'm running 235/75-15's (~28.9") with 1-1/4" King lift springs + 3/4" spacers in the rear. (with only 1" subframe spacers and my rear wheels are actually closer to the rear than the front, strangely)

You will definitely need to trim the liner and hammer over the pinch welds but you should clear fine after that.... Actually, now that I think about it.. You MIGHT need more wheel offset to clear the spring perch.. not 100% on that one


EDIT:
Just came across this thread, looks like "sleezydoesit" is running 225/65-17 on his with minor trimming.
https://www.subaruforester.org/vbull...9/#post5801450
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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This was my first ever post on this forum. I couldn't figure out how to get back to this thread after I posted it. Ha! Rookie mistake.

Thank you all for the input, it is much appreciated. Sometimes you go down the wormhole of forums and it doesn't give you the exact answer to the question you have. Again, thank you all.

After more research... I decided to send back the 2" lift kit and get the 1 1/2" instead, to be on the safe side and not cause any problems with other suspension components. Once I install it will be sitting at 1 3/4" in the front and 2" in the back. The kit comes with subframe spacers as well, so after the install I would assume my back wheel should be centered. Without the kit installed, the back wheel is already slightly more forward from the .5" rear overload springs I installed.

Now I'm debating between 215/65/16s OR 215/70/16s. I also changed my mind from the BF Goodrich KO2s to am likely going to get the General Grabber AT2s. I ended up buying the Sparco Terra 16" wheels. Last step is to install the lift kit and buy the tires.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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NWFORSTA... did you have to do anything to your exhaust after or before the subframe spacers were installed? I've been under my ride scoping out the process and it looks like the subframe may be pushed too low for the exhaust.

I thought about torching the hangers on the exhaust to bend them to make it work if that problem does occur. Any insight on that?

Also, got the tires in and plan to install the lift kit tomorrow after work.

POCONOSTEVE... I'm slightly jealous I didn't go that route. I thought I had to lift it in order to get bigger all terrain tires on it. Learning a lot as I go.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaller85 View Post
NWFORSTA... did you have to do anything to your exhaust after or before the subframe spacers were installed? I've been under my ride scoping out the process and it looks like the subframe may be pushed too low for the exhaust.

I thought about torching the hangers on the exhaust to bend them to make it work if that problem does occur. Any insight on that?

Also, got the tires in and plan to install the lift kit tomorrow after work.

POCONOSTEVE... I'm slightly jealous I didn't go that route. I thought I had to lift it in order to get bigger all terrain tires on it. Learning a lot as I go.


The lift was already installed when I got the car
(in other words, im not sure lol)
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaller85 View Post
NWFORSTA... did you have to do anything to your exhaust after or before the subframe spacers were installed? I've been under my ride scoping out the process and it looks like the subframe may be pushed too low for the exhaust.

I thought about torching the hangers on the exhaust to bend them to make it work if that problem does occur. Any insight on that?

Also, got the tires in and plan to install the lift kit tomorrow after work.

POCONOSTEVE... I'm slightly jealous I didn't go that route. I thought I had to lift it in order to get bigger all terrain tires on it. Learning a lot as I go.
My exhaust was banging on the rear subframe. You might need a couple longer exhaust hangers. Just install the lift and worry about the exhaust later. You can pick up long exhaust hangers from any auto parts store.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Lift kit complete. There is a hanger holding the pipe just before it splits into the dual exhaust in the back, that is where I thought my issue would lie. However, once I got it on jack stands to start the install I noticed the hanger was connected to the subframe so my worries were gone. The pipe dropped down with the subframe, I then slightly questioned the rear hangers that hold the mufflers since they are connected to the body and wouldn't lower like the aforementioned. No problems there either.

NWFORSTA... Makes sense, hahaha. I do have another question for you though. Do you ever notice any creaking coming from any of the strut top hats? Like the strength of the beefier springs are pushing on the body where they attach? Curious if it comes with the territory of beefier springs or maybe I need to do something to stop the sound, thinking maybe a crush washer under the top hat nuts may help. But, who knows.

Rhonda Rowdy is looking good, but still need to work some kinks out with my suspension. Something is off (other than the top hat creaking on the body).
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaller85 View Post
Lift kit complete. There is a hanger holding the pipe just before it splits into the dual exhaust in the back, that is where I thought my issue would lie. However, once I got it on jack stands to start the install I noticed the hanger was connected to the subframe so my worries were gone. The pipe dropped down with the subframe, I then slightly questioned the rear hangers that hold the mufflers since they are connected to the body and wouldn't lower like the aforementioned. No problems there either.

NWFORSTA... Makes sense, hahaha. I do have another question for you though. Do you ever notice any creaking coming from any of the strut top hats? Like the strength of the beefier springs are pushing on the body where they attach? Curious if it comes with the territory of beefier springs or maybe I need to do something to stop the sound, thinking maybe a crush washer under the top hat nuts may help. But, who knows.

Rhonda Rowdy is looking good, but still need to work some kinks out with my suspension. Something is off (other than the top hat creaking on the body).
Not that Ive noticed.. You want to make sure the keep all the suspension components & bolts slightly loose, then drop the car back onto the ground, let everything settle, then torque up all the bolts. If you dont, something could be out of place and binding up, or causing excess pressure on something. Might try loosening up the top bolts and re torquing them?

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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I followed that procedure when installing and shortly after. There was a tad bit of excess noise in the rear that re-torqueing solved. Front suspension feels a little shaky, seems to only be noticeable when driving off road or bumps on the road. Re--torqued all the bolts, same problem. Still trying to figure it out. Rear suspension noise seems only to be coming from the body where the spacers attach to the body. I assume the stouter springs put so much pressure on it that it makes the body creak. It's my best guess anyways.
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